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Straight and curly hair. Curly or straight? How to love your natural hair texture

Convert curly hair direct or vice versa - it’s not at all easy, since the initial data embedded in our beauty genes is passed on from generation to generation. We found out what happens to hair when we change its character

Where do the roots come from?

Let's turn to our genetic roots, because they are the ones who decide what kind of hair we will have: straight, wavy or curly. If we were in chemistry class right now, we would see under a microscope that hair consists of braided protein chains of keratin. They, in turn, contain sulfur atoms - sulfides, when combined to form a disulfide bond. It is this connection that is responsible for the bending of hair. The fact is that curly hair is rich in disulfide bonds, while straight hair is not. They cannot be disturbed by, say, ordinary water. If everything were so simple, then in the morning we could decide at any moment what kind of hair we would wear before next wash- with straight or curly hair. But genetics is not such a straightforward thing - you need to tinker with it.

Chemical attack

The main advantage of any change in hair structure is an aggressive effect on it. And stylists in this field work like real sorcerers: they determine your hair type, select the necessary compositions, keeping them for a strictly allotted time, and then apply some solutions again. All the “magic” of magically transforming hair from curly to straight and vice versa lies in breaking, adding and rearranging the disulfide bond. First, the hair’s own hydrogen sulfide and disulfide bridges between amino acid molecules and amino acid chains are destroyed, new ones are created (due to the added keratin), and then it’s all sealed.

To send your curls into a “knockout,” an alkaline composition is applied to the hair and left for just long enough for the long-awaited straightening. It opens the cuticle layer of the hair and destroys (or adds) disulfide bonds in the hair, the second oxidizes these bonds. As a result, two successive steps have exactly opposite effects: straight ones become curly, and curly ones become straight. When hair changes structure and, speaking in simple language, are damaged, the alkali is washed off. After damage, we ask them for “forgiveness” using an acid neutralizer, restoring the pH balance.

Keratin boom

After such stress, the hair does become straight, but very, very fragile. Keratin comes to the rescue, after which the keratin straightening procedure was named, focusing on the “harmlessness” of salon manipulations. According to anonymous insider trichologists, the straightening procedure sounds much more harmless in words than on the hair. At this moment, they receive a controlled poisonous dose of formaldehyde - the main active enemy of hair. Truly, beauty requires sacrifice. Therefore, it is very important to monitor the condition of your hair. Dry and bleached curly hair should not be torn apart by such a procedure; it is better to choose treatment and restoration. Otherwise instead permanent straightening hair, you can get permanent baldness, after which your love for any type of hair will awaken, as long as you have it.

Director effect

A good director or theater teacher molds his actors into whatever they want. For him they are the material with which to build good play or put on a great performance. The principle of curling hair is almost identical to straightening it and, oddly enough, looks a little like the director's permissiveness. First, we deprive the hair of its “muscles,” and then we “sculpt” it into what we want: small curls, Hollywood curls or natural waves.

In words, the straightening procedure sounds much more harmless than on the hair. At this moment they receive a controlled poisonous dose of formaldehyde - the main active enemy of hair

Under the influence of chemicals, hair scales open up, losing elasticity. Afterwards, the hair is wrapped in curlers and fixed with hydrogen peroxide. Yes, yes, your curly hair is familiar with the periodic table firsthand, but who cares, it’s beautiful! When the hair is fixed, the “genetic” bonds and keratin inside it are restored. The hair gains elasticity and strength, but of course - with errors. Therefore, after curling, the hair must be sent on a “vacation”, periodically pampering it with restorative relaxation care. If your hair is not nourished inside and out, it will become less and less susceptible to your director's training. You don't want them to« left the stage" in the middle of the premiere?

It is important to remember that both procedures should never be performed on pregnant women. The point is not at all in the unpredictability of the result, but in the possible harm to the fetus. Also, you should not change the nature of your hair after dyeing (it is very damaged, because double chemical exposure), after staining natural dyes(there may simply be no effect of changing the structure, and the worst thing is an acquired incomprehensible shade).

Even considering the fact that the most popular obsession “straight - curl, curly - straighten” remains with us to this day, you need to learn to love your hair the way it is. In order not to harm your body, you need to try to find your own unique style and start living with it. As one of the most athletic business women in Russia says: “You must always remain yourself and do only what suits you. Any transformation to appearance(be it hair, hairstyle or new style in clothing) must be made for only one purpose - to present a person in better version yourself. Therefore, you don’t need to look up to anyone.”

Dear girls, hello everyone! In my short post I would like to tell you about why curly hair is frizzy and how it differs from straight and wavy hair
Let's answer the question: why do the curls curl?
From our school biology course we know that hair grows through the formation of new cells. TO hair follicle(1) capillaries (2) located in the hair papilla (3) “approach” from below. Above the hair papilla (which, by the way, is responsible for nourishing the hair and controls the condition and growth of the hair) is where cell division occurs.


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Cell division process for straight hair passes evenly. When cut, the hair has a straight shape.
Have wavy division is carried out unevenly (cells are formed on different sides in unequal numbers). In the hair section it has oval shape.
Curly hair grow first in one direction, then in the other, due to the fact that the cells are formed alternately on different sides hair Because the hair shaft bends, large number the scales that cover it remain uncovered. Therefore, the humectants that come from the bulb along the entire length of the stem do not reach its end. As a result, curly hair is fuller, brittle and prone to split ends. That's how lucky curls are.
The difference between curly hair and straight hair is the structure of the hair itself and the structure of the hair follicle.
The curly hair follicle does not grow perpendicularly in the scalp, like in straight hair, and not with a slight slope, like wavy hair, but with a large bend.
An example is visible in the photo below.


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As the hair grows, it begins to follow the shape of its follicle. Here you go answer to question why does hair get frizzy?
Now we see that curly and wavy hair these are different things. And many people confuse them)
The difference between curly hair and curly and straight hair
a) Curly hair is thinner, breaks faster and is drier than straight (and wavy) hair. They lose moisture faster, become more fluffy, get tangled, sometimes even get into shreds, they are much more difficult to style, and they have a more porous structure.
b) Curly hair that is not taken care of will look careless, will be very frizzy, and will not lie flat. beautiful curls.

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c) The amount of curly and curly hair is much less than straight.
d) Curly hair grows slower than straight hair.
e) Curly hair has less sebaceous glands, as a result curly hair They get less oily than straight hair, but they dry out and split more often.

3. The degree of curliness depends on the thickness; the thinner the hair, the more frizzy it is (and vice versa).
4. Curly hair is only inherited.
5. The opinion: “You don’t even need to style your hair - just wash it” is not true. To style curly hair, you need a lot of products and hassle; often the curls simply don’t want to lie the way they should.
6. Curly hair takes away a lot of length.


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This is the short post I came up with. I hope it was interesting
Everyone beautiful hair!


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The main character of the music charts is an American actress, country singer and songwriter. Taylor Swift almost one step away from a world record: her new album Red already in the first two days of sales it sold more than 500 thousand copies. Fans are betting: will the beauty Taylor manage to get into the same company with Backstreet Boys, NSYNC and Eminem and surpass the record of one million copies sold in the first week of album sales? We decided to recall the stylish records of the young celebrity, whose hairstyles and makeup can almost always be considered exemplary.

Stylists and image makers Taylor Swift they work at five plus. Two years ago, the star was even recognized as the owner of the sexiest hairstyle, for which she received an award Victoria's Secret Sexy List. By the way, back then Taylor preferred curls. Then there was a short period when she straightened her hair, then for some time she was brown-haired (the girl changed her color for filming in a cosmetics advertisement Cover Girl). Now she is curly blonde again. And it looks very romantic!

Which hairstyle goes Taylor Swift more?

Before straightening or curling your hair, be sure to apply a heat protectant. If your hair is dry or damaged, pay attention to oil elixirs (by the way, Taylor Swift loves products very much Moroccanoil with argan oil).

Make your choice: curls or straight hair?

Leave-in elixir Break Fix Total Results Repair, Matrix with the Cuticle Rebond formula based on ceramides and amino acids, which restores and protects hair. Hairspray, Wellaflex with micro-spray technology. Styler Wand, Cloud Nine with a temperature control system and a sericite-based coating that strengthens the hair structure. Mask with express hair smoothing effect Smooth Lock Butter Silk, Redken to restore damaged areas of hair and give it shine and softness. Shampoo-bath for long hair Cristalliste, Kerastase With active complex Liquid Light Complex (“Liquid Light”) for cleansing, moisturizing, nourishing hair and giving it shine

If you have curly hair– simply apply mousse or other curl-defining product to damp hair and let it dry naturally. The effect will be as natural as possible. Taylor agrees with this. “I’m very impatient and instead of blow-drying my hair for a long time, I prefer to let it dry on its own,” explains the star.

Helped us:

Milena Vikhareva
Technologist Lisap Milano in Russia

It's not about hair color, but about its texture. Whether they curl or hang in sticks depends on the shape of the hair follicle. If the cut has a round section, the hair is straight, oval, wavy, S-shaped, curly. In response to hormonal changes the situation may change, but most of your life you still live either with waves or without them. We carefully study each hair type, it strengths and disadvantages.

If your hair is straight

They are the strongest and most elastic, they reflect light best, which means they shine. All this is thanks to sebum, which is easily distributed along the entire length of the shaft without tripping over curls and bends. In addition, the scales tightly adjacent to each other protect against moisture loss and mechanical damage. It seems like what more could you ask for, but, alas, there is another side to the coin: straight hair quickly becomes greasy.

If your hair is wavy

Congratulations, this is the golden mean. Sebum is distributed relatively evenly, so wavy hair also shines. At the same time, they are more voluminous, and their texture makes daily styling easier.

If your hair is curly

They are prone to dryness and damage by default. Due to loosely fitting scales, which are injured not only during styling, but even when the hair rubs against each other, curls quickly lose moisture, become brittle and unruly. If you don’t take care of such hair, it will be sad: the curls will become chaotic and less pronounced, and quickly fade.

Care products for different hair types

There are plenty of problems, as you can see. But all of them can be solved if modern care products are at hand. If hair could create its own wish list, it would look like this.

Direct:

  • shampoo and conditioner labeled "for daily care"or "for normal hair";
  • shampoo for deep cleansing, but not more than once a week. You only need it in one case - if you often use styling;
  • dry shampoo;
  • thermal protection;
  • hairspray.

Wavy:

  • shampoo and conditioner without sulfates and parabens, preferably with nourishing oils in the composition;
  • antifreeze agent;
  • serum for hair ends;
  • thermal protection;
  • mousses/waxes/foams to emphasize texture. The main rule when choosing a product: what thinner hair, the easier the styling.

Curly:

  • Cowashing products that appeared on the market a couple of years ago. This is something like a conditioner for washing hair - what you need for strands prone to dryness. Alternate cowashings with regular shampoos;
  • detangler, also known as a hair detangler;
  • oil;
  • thermal protection;
  • mousses/waxes/foams to emphasize texture. And again: the thinner the hair, the easier styling you need.

And there's more important rule, which applies to all hair types: if its length is below the chin line, you will need a mask, which should be used 1-2 times a week.


From left to right: Multifunctional product for restoring all hair types Dual Fix 12, Envy Professional; Smoothing shampoo Spring Loaded Frizz-Fighting Shampoo, Paul Mitchell; Dry shampoo Play Back, Matrix; Hair mask Masque Vital, La Biosthetique; Volume mousse Bodifying Foam, Nioxin; Styling spray unruly hair Heat-Protective Control Mist, L'Occitane; Styling care for density and volume at the roots High Rise Volume, Redken; Smoothing thermal protective fluid for hair Lisap Ultimate, Lisap Milano


People with experience

Maria Kuznetsova,
founder of Orange PR Agency

There are few African Americans in Russia, so stylists don’t really understand what to do with us. At the age of 16, my friend and I decided to straighten my curls and successfully burned them. I went to look for a repairman to fix the situation. Several people turned me down, but Alexander Todchuk saved me. He shaped my hair for the first time. Today in my arsenal I have two shampoos (for colored and dry hair), a mask, a thermal protection spray, and a shaping (or straightening) product. In the summer I hide from the sun, wear hats and panama hats so that my hair does not become even drier.

Lisa Morozova,
mother of two-year-old Bogdana

If I blow-dry my wavy hair with a diffuser and add some texture-creating product, I get the effect beach styling. When it's humid outside or I'm somewhere at sea, my hair folds into itself. soft curls. Then I don’t go to bed at all, and that’s nice. Oil and UV protection spray only. When it comes to care, I never forget that wavy hair is naturally dry, so I always have a mask or other moisturizing product on hand. I select shampoo based on the needs of the scalp. I love Kérastase Dermo Calm, it’s soothing, and my favorite styling product is Redken.

Anastasia Averkina,
digital specialist

I was born with curly hair and, according to my mother, long hair, but I went to school with straight lines. How and why this happened is unclear. I travel often, and my hair reacts to climate change. Upon return, they become oily at the roots or, conversely, the scalp begins to dry out. Literally every month I try something new, but I still have my favorites! I feed tender feelings to L"Occitane, A"kin and Himalaya Herbals. One of the latest discoveries is the Kérastase Cristal mask. When my hair gets frizzy, I use a shine spray and always style with heat protection.


Styling for different hair types

Straight hair

If they are thick, there should be no problems with installation at all. Wash your hair, apply heat protection, dry with a towel or hairdryer and straighten your strands with an iron. If your hair is thin and after such manipulations scatters in all directions, the cause of your troubles is most likely in the haircut. Look for a master who can find the right hairstyle, taking into account the shape of the head and face, its proportions. We recommend fixing the styling with a varnish marked finish: such a product will also add additional shine.

Wavy hair

Wash your hair and pat dry with a towel. Having lowered it down, dry your hair with a hairdryer - this will preserve the root volume. Then you can use large-diameter tongs or large Velcro curlers. Dry your hair completely. Now remove the curlers, carefully comb the strands with a brush and fix the styling with varnish.

Curly hair

There is the least amount of work here - just dry it clean hair with a towel, rub the styling product in your palms and distribute it over the strands. The styling is ready!

I also wanted to touch on the topic of hairstyles and style types. When we talked about facial features and various types image, then in the comments there was a lot about sleek hairstyles for types with graphic facial features. And in particular, about the fact that they are not allowed to have curls.
In general, if you take some general rule, then, first of all, for graphic ones - smooth, and for smooth features - wavy, I agree, it’s logical, but don’t forget about the shape of the curls and the actual oval of the face.

Curls are also different. It doesn’t have to be just round small curls. These can be very light curls, which seem to be refracted rather than curled, appearing as lines rather than circles and ovals. A great example here would be Cate Blanchett and her hairstyles.
Kate has just a graphic face, more lines than roundness, the nose dominates the face, the line of the eyes and lips is almost straight (JM).
In theory, hairstyles with smooth hair. And it's true, they are coming.



The lines of the face logically continue:


There is also a slight carelessness in the hairstyle, large, slightly disheveled curls, as if in zigzags


without much symmetry


In the next photo already smooth lines in the hairstyle, but the hair is pulled back very well from the face, and the curls are still relatively large, matching the facial features:


But as soon as the curls become smaller and rounder, we get the following examples:


Now it seems to me that it was precisely because of the makeup and hairstyle that I could not finish watching this film :)


And just two pictures side by side for comparison:



Therefore, I think that everyone can have curls. The only question is which ones. And then the question is about whether it suits your face shape. For example, it may be that the face is rounded and very smooth, and the nose is neatly upturned, but the curls make the face visually wider.
Or a graphic face, but elongated and there is a lot of asymmetry in the features, which means that smoothly pulled back hair will only emphasize this even more.
Let's take another example of the soft-lined type, Susan Sarandon. Apparently, she has her own wavy hair, or the image is already so well thought out; I couldn’t even find a photo with straight hair. The waves look very harmonious.




But it is worth noting that with age, curls, even for soft types, should become larger, otherwise it turns out too decorative. Here you can also compare the color of lipstick on two the following photos, and at the same time the color type, but more on that some other time :) I think this is quite clear.



By the way, here's a test for you, it's not serious, but maybe it works for you :) I also have graphics on my face, but my hair is wavy, and I usually just dry it smoothly. But about 1.5 years ago I wanted careless waves so as not to torment your hair with straightening.
And I ordered to test a round curling iron and a flat iron. As a result, after using a round curling iron, I ended up with perfect round curls a la Malvina, and I looked very strange in them, I kept wanting to tousle these curls, pull them into thinner, random strands, or even put them in a ponytail.
And then I saw how waves were made with a flat iron, and I felt happy. I trained for a long time, and even now it doesn’t always work out perfectly, but sometimes, especially in the summer, I give myself such broken curls on my face.
What about your curls? :)
P.S. And I remind you that on November 12 in Frankfurt there will be a seminar where we will talk about style, your facial features, clothing lines, and also about hairstyles that suit your type. You can sign up here.
© Stilouette, 2016

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