Probably every modern woman has a vest in her wardrobe, or even more than one. It's fashionable, practical, beautiful. The vest can be of a wide variety of styles, different lengths, and different purposes. Modern vests are made from different fabrics and materials, including leather and even lace. Hence the conclusion: there can’t be too many vests.

We offer a pattern for a women's vest with a collar and framed pockets.

This pattern can be used to sew a classic vest from suiting fabric, checkered, striped fabric, and you can also choose elegant fabric, use bright materials, embroidery, beads, sequins, etc. as decoration.

The finished pattern of a vest with a collar is given for women with a chest circumference of 100 and 104 cm.

Bust: 100-104 cm

Waist: 78 - 82 cm

Hip circumference: 106-110cm

A pattern for a chest circumference of 96 cm can bedownload for free .

It’s easy to download the pattern, instructions are available

Instructions on how to print the pattern are located

The finished pattern for a women's vest with a collar is given without allowances on the seams.

Print out the pattern sheets and connect them according to the diagram. The pattern is the order in which the pattern sheets are connected. It is printed on the first sheet.

Be sure to check the scale for consistency. On a printed sheet with a 10x10 cm square depicted, sides of 10 cm should correspond to exactly 10 centimeters. To do this, in the printer settings, set the document print scale to 100% (no scaling).

Additionally to the main details it is necessary to cut out facings for pockets in a frame 18 x 2.5 cm - 4 parts and valances for pockets 18 x 6 cm - 2 parts.

Before cutting, double-check that your measurements match the pattern parameters.

Ready-made patterns are given for a conventionally typical figure. If your figure differs from the conventionally typical one, you should adjust the pattern taking into account the characteristics of your physique and only then start cutting.

Don't forget to give seam allowances, as well as additional allowances in those places where clarification is possible during fitting.

Having swept away the parts, try on the product, make all the necessary adjustments and start sewing.

The vest can be either lined or unlined. The lining is cut according to the main details without taking into account the edgings and facings.

There are no special recommendations for sewing this vest model. It is only worth noting that armholes can be processed not only with the proposed facings, but also in another way, for example, with bias tape or wide piping. The main thing is that the processing method you choose matches the type of fabric and the purpose of the product itself.

For those who want to create a pattern for a specific figure based on the measurements taken, we have a detailed semi-fitting silhouette. With such a basic pattern, you can create a wide variety of clothing styles.

Leave your questions, wishes and suggestions in the comments to a specific article. We will definitely consider them.

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In a previous article, I showed how to model a base pattern to create a classic women's V-neck vest pattern.

This article is about constructing patterns for vests with an English collar and a stand-up collar. And also - methods for transferring a chest dart, which will allow you to sew a vest of any model.

How to make a vest pattern with an English collar and cut-off side parts.

In the article about creating a pattern for an English collar, I already advised beginning craftswomen to make a pattern for the upper collar not with angular lines, but with semicircular ones - it is much easier to work with.

This process is described in detail in the recommended article, so now we will pay more attention to how to model the base pattern of a vest or jacket in order to sew a model with cut-off side parts - photo 12. You can read about changes in the front and back patterns, deepening the armholes in the first parts of the master class.

The only difference is the changes in the cut line. After you have drawn a line for the edge of the side at a distance of 1.5 cm from the line of the middle of the front, draw the shape of the English collar and make a pattern for the top collar.

Draw the lines for the bottom of the vest and pocket. As a rule, the pocket line begins at the waist line and intersects the lines of the central dart at a slight angle.

We make a pattern for the side parts of the vest.

The width of the finished side piece must be at least 10 cm in order to obtain a nice fit at the waist in the finished product. The optimal width is 11 – 15 cm depending on your size.

For example, for sizes 46 - 48, you chose the width of the side part 11 cm. It is better to distribute this distance between the patterns of the shelf and back unevenly - the width of the part on the shelf is 5 cm, on the back - 6 cm - photo 13.

After you have determined the width, draw lines for the side reliefs on the shelf and back. The width of the side darts is 1 -1.5 cm each. On the shelf, you calculate the width of the central dart by subtracting the width of the side dart. On average, depending on the OT measurement, this distance is 2 – 2.5 cm

On the back the calculation is similar. But it is better to make the width of the side dart no more than 1 cm, and the central one - no more than 1.5 - 2 cm - photo 13, red arrows.

Cut off the side parts of the front and back along the lines of the reliefs, cut out tracing paper or paper in the area of ​​the darts at the waist.

Modeling the pattern for the back of the vest.

Vest models with cut-off side parts do not require shoulder darts on the back parts. Therefore it needs to be closed. The exception is a stooped figure. In this case, it is better to leave the dart.

How to do it.

Divide the distance between points 1 and 2 (photo 14) approximately in half, draw a horizontal line. Cut the back pattern along this line to the top of the shoulder dart - point 3. Bring the sides of the shoulder dart together.

To ensure that the length of the armhole does not change, distribute the solution of the small dart going to the armhole evenly.

First, from the line of the central seam of the back, from the bottom point of the neck 4, measure 0.5 cm to the left and draw a smooth line at the top of the central seam.

Secondly, let's change the angle of the shoulder seam line, lowering it down by 0.2 - 0.3 mm - point 5.

When combining the sides of the shoulder dart, they may not match in length. Simply draw a new shoulder seam line, trimming off the excess.

Closing the chest dart.

In order to close the chest dart, cut the front part (without the side part) along the pocket line and connect the sides of the dart - photo 15. Lower the top of the dart 1 - 2 cm down - point 6.

Then bring the edges of the center dart together into flanges and join the pocket edges together. Due to the slope of the pocket line, as a rule, the upper part overlaps the lower part in the area of ​​​​the entrance to the pocket. Most often, this is obtained with an OG measurement of 88 – 90 cm.

In order to cut off the excess without disturbing the pocket slope line, draw a line from the top of the chest dart to the side seam - points 7 and 8 and cut the pattern along this line. At point 8, try to put one part on top of the other so as not to change the length of the dart, but to get rid of the extra 2 - 3 mm on the side line - photo 16.

Constructing a cutting side part pattern.

In order to connect the side parts of the shelf and the back into one piece, draw a vertical line on a sheet of paper - the dotted line in photo 17. And cut these parts along the waist line.

When combined, the upper and lower parts overlap. Compensate for the millimeters lost during application on the hemline - photo 17.

Completing the pattern.

Check all the lines of reliefs and darts - they must match in length. Double-check the smoothness of the hemline on the back pattern and the one-piece side piece of the vest.

And, most importantly, check the direction of the lobe thread on all the details of the pattern - all the lobe lines should be drawn perpendicular to the waist line - photo 18. Otherwise, the product will not turn out well - distortions or creases will appear.

We are creating a pattern for a vest with a stand-up collar.

We start by deepening the neck of the back by 0.5 cm - point 9. Then we widen the necks of the back and front by 1 cm - points 10 and 11. Along the line of the middle front, the neck deepens by 3 cm - point 12. Draw a line for the edge of the side on at a distance of 1.5 cm from the mid-front line and mark the location of the buttons - photo 19.

In order to draw a new armhole line, shorten the shoulder seam lines by 2.5 - 3 cm and deepen the armholes by 2 cm.

To build a hem line, you need to draw a horizontal line on the back and shelf at a distance of 12 - 18 cm from the waist line. To build the lower corner of the shelf with a rounded edge, set 3 cm down on the middle line and draw an inclined line that ends in a smooth semicircle.

If desired, you can create a shaped V-neck at the back and remove the shoulder dart in the same way as shown in the previous model.

Draw pocket lines and shorten the chest dart at its top by 2 cm - point 13.

Cut the front pattern along the dart lines. Connect the edges of the chest dart - points 14 and 15. You will get the front detail shown in photo 20.

On the neck of the shelf, mark the ledge point - point 16. At this point the stand-up collar will begin and end. To ensure that the right and left halves of the collar do not overlap each other, it is better to place the ledge point at the intersection of the neck line and the line of the center of the front.

Constructing a stand-up collar pattern.

The collar pattern is based on the main horizontal line - photo 21.

Measure the length of the new neck line of the back and front from the ledge point 16. From the starting point 1, set the resulting value minus 0.5 cm to the left.

From the resulting point 2, draw upward a vertical line 3 cm long - point 3.

Divide the distance between points 1 and 2 in half - place point 4.

Then divide the same distance by 3 - place point 5. Connect points 5 and 3 with an auxiliary straight line. Connect points 3, 5 and 4 with a smooth line, as shown in photo 21. This is the line for sewing in the stand-up collar.

Set aside the height of the collar from points 1 and 3, for example, 2.5 cm. Draw the desired line for the inclination and rounding of the ends of the stand-up collar. Check the width of the stand along the entire length of the collar. Match the collar pattern with the necks of the back and front. If necessary, make the necessary adjustments.

Once again, align all the details of the patterns along the lines of the darts, reliefs, and side seams. Check the direction of the grain thread. On the collar it runs clearly along the fold line.

Now you can create your own pattern for a vest of any model. I wish you good luck!

Pattern of a shawl collar or shawl collar, various shapes Today we’ll talk about creating a pattern for shawl collars. This is not the first lesson on sewing collars, we are preparing a course on sewing a collar so that you can understand the construction of a collar more clearly, but for now the next topic is one-piece shawl collars.

Shawl collars in products can be either one-piece with the product or sewn in. Today I have prepared two options for shawl collars for you. To do this, we have already prepared a model of the bodice, for which we will build a shawl collar.

Fashion magazines offer products with shawl collars, some of them are shown in the photo

Shawl collars and their variety

1:31, 1:56, clearly sewn-in collars, here you can even see it from the stripes on the fabric, 1:58,

Shawl collars in models from fashion magazines

In this photo you can see that it is very open and at the same time it is still a shawl collar. We'll talk about these collars in this video. Here is my basic pattern using the 10-measurement cutting system.

2:27 The pattern is cut to the waist, since the construction of the collar is important to us. On the fabric we mark the center of the front and the width of the half-skid. In order for our one-piece collar not to dig into the neck, it is necessary to remove a little from the neck line, a little more from the shoulder line than from the sprout line, 1.5 cm and 0.7 cm at most, see photo 2:47

basic pattern We do the same with the neck line on the shelf 3:07

adjusting the neck pattern

Then, at right angles to the shoulder seam, we set aside 10 -11 cm for the sprout 3:34,

and 7-8 cm at your discretion, set aside the width of the collar, 3:46
Such a collar will not be narrowed or widened, an average comfortable size.3:49

building a one-piece shawl collar

After this, you need to decide on the location of the first button, mark this place on the pattern (in our case, it is at a level just above the chest height point).3:59

After we have decided on the length of the collar (based on the position of the first button), using a smooth line, as in the photo, we connect the upper and lower points of the future collar. This line goes beyond the semi-skid line, see photo 4:50

determine the location of the first button to determine the length of the collar

In order for our collar on the back to have a good fit, we need to additionally transfer that section of the collar, which we have completed to a length of 10-11 cm and a width of 7-8 cm, onto tracing paper, and then make several (three is enough) cuts To slightly move this area apart, open each incision by 3 - 4 mm, see photo

5:07, as they usually teach to make a collar pattern - first make a common collar on tracing paper, then spread it apart, 5:34
We pulled apart, secured and cut out, in the place where the shoulder line along the shelf we make a notch, see photo 6:03,

adjusting the shawl collar pattern

so that we have the opportunity to carefully and competently sew part of the collar into the sprout. This is what our pattern looks like, a front with a one-piece collar and a back. On this basis, I will now show you two types of collars. We basted the bodice, this is what our pattern looks like 8:23
Please note that a one-piece collar, like a one-piece stand-up collar, goes into the shoulder and there is a notch here, 8:46,

sew in the collar

one corner goes into the shoulder, the other into the sprout. After we have swept everything away, we try it on a mannequin, find the center of the front,

fitting on a mannequin

try on me

and this is how everything looks on me, since the size of the mannequin did not fit my pattern.

Pay attention to how the one-piece collar looks, everything is beautiful, but I don’t like that the shawl collar with this cut is too straight. Now I will show you how you can change a one-piece shawl collar so that its line is slightly softened and rounded. To do this, we determine the place of the fold of our lapel, and draw this fold line on the finished product.

fold line to determine the location of the dart 11:47,

now, not reaching the location of the first button and not reaching a few centimeters to the shoulder seam line, 11:51
We fold it in half along the fold line and pin the fabric and make a dart along the entire length, which we marked, and cut it out with a smooth line. 12:33 pm

change in the cut of the one-piece shawl collar for a softer neckline

Under our collar we got this hole, which will help us change the shape of a simple line of a one-piece collar to a slightly modified one, since the collar will now lie more rounded along the neckline.

When you cut out the hem, you will need to preserve the shape of the front and collar, but for us, so that there is no seam now, we baste like a dart, on the contrary, a 0.5 cm basting seam.

Now let's try on our sample so you can see the difference - on the left is our straight shawl collar, and on the right is a slightly rounded line after minor manipulations with a ready-made simple one-piece shawl collar, 14:43

Two versions of a one-piece shawl collar

Two versions of a one-piece shawl collar will help you diversify your wardrobe. By changing the width of the collar and a larger dart, the shawl collar will have an even more rounded neck shape.

*Collar construction course

You can see other collars on the website:

Collar pattern. One-piece stand-up collar with cutout

An original stand with a corner for warm clothes

The topic of collars is inexhaustible, so we will continue on shawl collars, and I was glad to show you these two options for a one-piece shawl collar, so that you can learn and independently add variety to your wardrobe.

All the best, I was with you, Irina Mikhailovna Paukshte and Alexey Yastrebov!

A collar is an element of a product characterized by its “flexible” shape. There are a huge number of its modifications, so you can choose the ideal option for each face type, body type and other individual characteristics. Most collars have a similar design - there is a visible part and a stand hidden from view, separated from each other by an inflection. The key difference between the pieces is the way they connect to the bodice.

The element can be cut-off (it is sewn in along the cutout line) or one-piece. In the second case, as a rule, it is cut out in one piece with the front and back. This is how you can model:

• classic one-piece stand-up collars - with a height of the hidden part from 3.5-4.5 to 7-8 cm;
• stand-up models with stands 2.5-3.5 cm;
• semi-erect and flat-lying varieties - with a height of up to 2 cm and 5 mm, respectively.

The racks can vary in the width of the opening part (up to 25 cm), blind or open fasteners. They fit snugly to the neck or effectively frame it, moving away a short distance. The choice of the final form depends only on the wishes of the future owner of the item. The racks that are cut out along with the product have features - they need to be taken into account when sewing clothes.

vigostore.ru

Features of one-piece racks

A one-piece collar is convenient to build on widened necks. This is due to the peculiarities of the style - it is most often used for outerwear, jackets, dresses and tops made of thick fabric, which organically combines with a strict style. To make the part look beautiful, the product is processed using a damp-heat method using an iron. Fabrics used for stands rarely stretch and their WTO on a narrow neckline can be problematic.

Most often, when constructing such collars, craftsmen start from the basic drawings of jackets, jackets and coats. The degree of neck expansion depends on the style of the product and the personal preferences of the owner. The size can vary from one to 5 centimeters and even more. There is a general “constructive” principle: as the height of the stand increases, the expansion along the neck should also increase. When creating a pattern, you must take into account the presence or absence of a middle seam on the back of the product. The modeling sequence is different in the two cases.

If there is no seam connection, you need to line up the part vertically, focusing on the center line along the back. The upper cut of the collar is slightly shifted, and the connection between the post and the shoulder is smooth. In most cases, the excess width is removed into darts. Their end should be located at a distance from the edge of the stand (at least half a centimeter), and the length depends on the height of the collar.

studfiles.net

Construction of a basic drawing of a one-piece rack

The pattern of a classic version of this collar is built according to a standard pattern. The work begins with drawing a right angle - the vertex is in the upper left corner, the rays are directed to the right and down.

First, draw up the stitching line:

1. a horizontal line is laid from the original peak according to the measurement of the half-girth in the neck (with an increase of half a centimeter);
2. from the end of the drawn segment, an allowance for half-skidding is applied to the right side (its edge is raised by 3-5 mm);
3. from the original vertex, 2-4 centimeters are laid along the midline, marking the end with a dot;
4. the resulting marks are connected by an auxiliary line - it must be divided into three, indicating the division points;
5. from the first division point upward, draw a perpendicular straight line and measure half a centimeter;
6. smoothly connect the auxiliary intermediate marks of the curve.

The construction of the rack begins from auxiliary points vertically, and its protrusions are formed smoothly, in the form of rounded curves. Next, a flight cut is constructed by depositing along the midline up to 9-10 cm (along the width of the part on the reverse side). From the end of this segment to the right, a horizontal line is laid after intersecting with a vertical line, extended by 1-4 centimeters. Then you need to display the length of the angle and smoothly connect the marks.

sdelala-sama.ru

Constructing Adjacent Racks

Depending on the degree of fit of the one-piece rack, it is built differently in the drawing. If the collar should tightly cover the neck, you first need to model the back. Trace the main pattern and find the location of the highest and lowest points. Continue the line along the center of the back up to the height of the counter, and mark the end of the segment.

Work progress

1. From the highest point of the sprout, set aside vertically the height of the stand along the shoulder (the value along the midline minus 1 centimeter).
2. From the end of the segment horizontally to the left and vertically up, build lines 1 centimeter long and smoothly connect the ends, continuing the curve to the cut on the shoulder.
3. Trace the drawing of the front (the shoulder dart should be moved to the side cut) and mark the highest and lowest points along the neckline.
4. From the highest mark, draw a cut line along the shoulder to the right side and from its end upward, draw a segment half the height along the stand (the angle should be right).
5. From the end constructed above the segment, draw a smooth curve to the highest point on the neck.

The height of the stand in the center of the front part is adjusted according to the parameter in the shoulder section - they should be equal (although the value can be determined by the model). The upper cut of the part can be brought to the depth of the cutout or formed along the edge of the side if a fastener is provided along the front. When constructing, control marks must be set - at the highest points on the sprout and neck.

stylefashion.com.ua

Designing collars spaced from the neck

A one-piece stand can be designed “at a distance” from the neck. The modeling technique is similar to tight-fitting varieties: first they build the back, outlining the main details on a sheet of paper, and then expand the sprout by 1-3 centimeters.

Work progress

1. Continue upward the median line to the height of the counter.
2. From the point at the end of the sprout expansion, vertically plot the height of the stand at the shoulder (the corresponding parameter in the center minus 1 centimeter).
3. Connect the ends of the two lines drawn above, smoothly drawing a concave curve.
4. Make a side cut along the control point at the bottom of the sprout.
5. Make a dart - the new line of the sprout is divided in two, on one half an element is made with a gap of 1 centimeter and a length equal to the height of the stand.

The construction of the front also begins from the main pattern. It is circled, and the highest and lowest points along the cutout are marked on the resulting drawing. If the product must have a fastener, you need to make an allowance of up to 3 cm in the middle for half-skidding.

1. from the end of the expansion, draw a vertical line - the height along the stand from the seam in the shoulder;
2. from the point at the end of the segment, draw a horizontal line of about 2 centimeters to the right;
3. from the extended segment for half-skidding upwards, measure the height along the stand with a centimeter increase;
4. From the resulting point to the right side, draw a horizontal line of 2 centimeters.

The resulting auxiliary points are smoothly connected by concave curves - these are cuts from above and from the side. When making darts, take ⅓ of the length of the new neck as the height, and leave 1-1.5 centimeters for the solution.

club.season.ru

Designing products with a seam in the center of the back

Many fashionable oversized coats with one-piece stands have a seam running through the middle of the back. To design a collar for such a product, you need to widen the neck to the required volume and, accordingly, increase the height of the collar. The details of the clothing are copied separately, and the element is modeled on them, starting from the back. An extension is made on it (about 2-2.5 cm) - the value is laid down along the cut on the shoulder and marked with a dot. From there, draw a line along the neckline again (it will be needed to design the darts).

Work progress

1. Set aside the height of the stand and lower it along the shoulder section (the height is reduced by 5-10 mm).
2. Make a bevel of about 5-20 mm and draw a new middle axis for the stand.
3. Create a bevel along the shoulder line, equal to or smaller than in the center.
4. Draw the top cut of the element - straight or smoothly, according to the model.
5. Draw a smooth curve along the shoulder line.
6. Construct a dart to fit along the neckline on the back: the gap is 7-10 mm (evenly distributed on both sides), the length is two heights along the stand.

The next stage is modeling the part along the shelf.

1. If the product must have fasteners and buttons, an allowance will be needed in the center of the front part (step back 3-4 cm from the middle).
2. The edge along the side is drawn along the entire length of the shelf. You need to widen the cutout by 2-2.5 cm and mark its end with a dot.
3. From this point, set the height of the element up minus 5 mm (the cut along the shoulder is lowered in the same way as the back).
4. Smoothly shape the shoulder line into a curve.
5. Draw a bevel along the front line as a straight line, and the top cut as a smooth curve.
6. Remove the excess width into the dart, the location of which is selected according to the style and figure (standardly it is placed perpendicular to the neckline) - a solution of 1-1.5 centimeters, length along the counter.

liveinternet.ru

To find where the central axis of the dart is located, you need to measure its length and set aside ⅓ of the value from the midline of the shelf. The solution is distributed along the cutout, and the top is finished, not reaching half a centimeter from the top cut on the stand. In a similar way, you can model collars on other voluminous products - jackets, jackets.

This type of collar is most often used in outerwear. Therefore, a one-piece stand is built on the basic drawings of a coat, jacket or jacket.

The stand-up collar drawing is based on the widened neckline. How much to widen the neck is up to you, in accordance with the style you have chosen for sewing. This value varies within fairly significant limits, 0-5 cm or more. The higher the stand, the wider the neck should be. The height of the stand can also be different. If we talk about average values, then this is 4-8 cm.

Note. The presence or absence of a seam in the middle of the back matters! The construction in these two options will not be significantly different, but will differ. Today we are making a pattern for a one-piece coat rack with a seam in the middle of the back.

And so, let’s assume that we need to build a one-piece stand-up collar for a fashionable O-shaped coat with a seam in the middle of the back. For this task, we need to decide on the height of the stand and, accordingly, the width of the neck. Let's widen the neckline by 2.5 cm and take the height of the stand to be 8 cm, since the coat is quite voluminous, we will make the stand accordingly.

Copy the details onto separate sheets of paper coat basics: backs and shelves. If you take ready-made patterns for a specific coat model, then keep in mind that the neck has already undergone design changes in accordance with the style. I will tell you what to do in this case later.

Now we focus our attention on the drawing of the back and begin constructing the stand.

Let's widen the neck of the back by 2.5 cm. To do this, from the top of the neck we set aside the required value along the shoulder section of the back and put point O. Draw a new line for the neck, connecting points A and O - we will need this line later to construct the dart.

Draw vertical lines from points A and O upward.

From point A up, we set aside the height of the stand and place point O1. In our example, the height of the stand will be 8 cm, and you set aside your value. Remember, the height of the stand may vary.

From point O up, set aside the height of the stand minus 0.5-1 cm and set point O2 (8-0.5 = 7.5 cm). Those. We slightly lower the height of the stand at the level of the shoulder section. This value is not constant, its average values ​​are in the range of 0.5-1 cm.

Now we need to do bevel along the center line of the postAO1. To do this, to the left of point O1 we set aside the value of the bevel. The size of the bevel can also be different, within 0.5-2 cm. We will focus on average values, for example, take 1 cm and move it from point O1 to the left and place point O3. Draw the middle line of the rack, connecting points A and O3.

Let's do bevel along the shoulder line OO2. Typically, the amount of this bevel can be equal to or less than the amount of the bevel along the center line. The size of the bevel depends on the style of the product, the degree of fit of the stand to the neck, etc. We will take the value of 0.7 cm and move it from point O2 to the left, and place point O4.

We make out top cut line of the rack. The configuration of the top line of the rack, depending on the specified parameters, can be designed as a straight or smooth line. It is important that the upper contour approaches the center line of the stand at a right angle - this is a general rule for constructing patterns for all collars.

We make out shoulder line smooth curve as shown in Figure 4.

To ensure product fit along the back neckline Let's build a tuck.
The tuck is located in the middle of the AO section.

Dart solution on the back is usually within 0.7-1 cm. We take 1 cm.

Dart length equal to twice the height of the rack. In our case, this is 8x2=16 cm, while the top of the dart should not reach the top cut of the stand by 0.5 cm.

Through the middle of the AO section we draw a line parallel to the line of the shoulder section of the stand.
On the neck line we distribute the tuck solution 1 cm on both sides of the center line of the dart - this is 0.5 cm.

We put 8 cm down from the neck line AO.

We lower the top of the dart 0.5 cm from the top line of the stand. And we design the dart as shown in Figure 5.

A one-piece backrest is built.

Now let's start building the stand on the shelf.

In our example, the coat has a fastener with loops and buttons, so in the middle of the front we give an allowance, stepping back from the center line of the front 3-4 cm, we draw a line for the edge of the side along the entire length of the front pattern.

The width of the border for a coat can be different; it depends on several factors and is determined in accordance with the style. In our example, the width of the side is 3 cm.

Now let's build the stand.

Just like on the back, we will widen the neckline by 2.5 cm, and mark the expansion point with the letter C.

From point C up, we set aside the height of the stand minus 0.5 cm - just like on the back, we lower the shoulder section of the stand by 0.5 cm (8-0.5 = 7.5 cm) and set point C1.

Let's do bevel along the shoulder line CC1. To do this, set aside 2 cm to the right of point C1 and place point C2.

We make out shoulder line smooth curve as shown in the figure.

From point B up, set the height of the stand 8 cm and place point B1. By the way, the height of the front stand may be different and may not depend on the height of the stand on the back. In our example, it could well be 9-10 cm or, conversely, have a much smaller value if the style of the product suggested this.

Bevel along the front line the rack can be 2-4 cm. Set aside the amount of the bevel to the right of point B1 and set point B2.

Let's draw the line of the upper cut of the rack with a smooth line, as shown in the figure. We draw the front cut of the rack with a straight line.

Construction of a dart on the shelf.

To ensure a good fit of the product on the figure, it is necessary to remove the resulting excess neck width into the dart.

The location of the dart on the shelf depends on the style, the characteristics of the figure, etc. We will build a standard version. The direction of the dart is perpendicular to the neck line.

Dart solution on the shelf it is usually within 1-1.5 cm. We take 1.5 cm.

Dart length on the shelf, as well as on the back, is taken depending on the height of the stand. In our case it is 16 cm (double the height of the stand).

The center of the dart is located on the neck line, at a distance of 1/3 of its length from the center line of the front. Simply put, we measure the length of the neckline from the center line of the front to the shoulder and divide by three. We set aside the result obtained from the center line of the shelf and build a dart. We distribute the tuck solution along the neck line 1.5 cm: 2 = 0.75 cm. We put 8 cm down from the neck line, and the top of the dart should not reach the top cut of the stand by 0.5 cm.

That's it! Work for 20 minutes.

And remember, there are no hard and fast rules! Only those who go beyond the standards can get unusual, i.e. extraordinary, exceptional, special, unique result.

Experiment! Good luck!