Modern clothing sales outlets amaze with their diversity; the shelves are filled with clothes made from a wide variety of materials, both natural and artificial. But the main position, as before, is occupied by silk, used to produce various things. This fact is explained primarily by the unique properties of the material.

Silk fabric does not stretch or shrink. The surface has a pleasant shine, which, when exposed to sunlight, shimmers in different shades and attracts the attention of others. During the washing process, the material absorbs a large amount of water (almost half of its own weight), but this does not prevent it from drying quickly. A particularly valuable property of silk is its strength. Thanks to all these properties, silk has earned the love of many consumers.

Silk also has a significant disadvantage - price. Expensive silk fabric is unaffordable for many, but even this was managed thanks to technological progress, as a result of which products made from artificial material began to appear on store shelves. This fabric is also popular among buyers, although it does not have the same properties as natural fabric.

What is silk material made from?

Weaved from natural, synthetic, and artificial threads. The last two variations can safely be attributed to one group - chemical. Artificial fabric is made from cellulose with chemical impurities; it has several excellent characteristics and an affordable price.

The natural material consists of thin hairs, which include wax, fat and proteins. created from fibroin proteins and the sticky substance sericin. Dying and mineral elements are included in the composition of the fibers. Natural material, just like it, belongs to the category of expensive luxury fabrics with a large list of positive qualities that its synthetic analogues do not have, namely:

1. Increased hygroscopicity. The ability to absorb large amounts of moisture, but dry quickly.
2. Hypoallergenic. The material does not absorb dust, does not electrify, is suitable for people with allergies, prevents the spread of germs and masks unpleasant odors.
3. Good thermoregulation. In clothes made of silk, a person maintains optimal body temperature in any weather.
4. Air permeability and vapor permeability. Despite the fact that products made from natural silk fabric have a high density, natural fibers allow water vapor and air to pass through perfectly. This provides the best conditions for the functioning of the human body.
5. Wear resistance and durability. Silk fabric has a long service life without losing quality. It is resistant even to acetic acid and alcohol. Only a concentrated alkaline solution or acid, as well as constant exposure to the sun, can harm silk.
6. Fire resistance. Of course, it is impossible to say that natural silk does not burn, but when a spark hits the fabric, it does not light up, but begins to slowly smolder, spreading the smell of burnt feathers around.

Advantages of artificial fabric

It has been scientifically established that the chemical composition of high-quality fibers has a beneficial effect on the human body. Let's consider the properties of silk fabric:

1. Relieves joint disease.
2. Has a positive effect on heart and skin diseases.
3. Helps with viral and colds.
4. Promotes the process of cellular renewal, thereby prolonging human life.
5. Artificial silk soothes skin irritation and relieves dryness.

Silk material drapes perfectly, which means it is ideal for sewing dresses and curtains. The folds are smooth, and the products are light and airy.

The next advantage of silk is its long-lasting color. Clothes made from this fabric will not fade when washed and will not stain. Products can be dried in the sun without fear that it will fade. But, despite the above, it should be remembered that the care of silk products should be selected in accordance with its weave and type (we will talk about them below).

Disadvantages of artificial material

Despite the large number of advantages, artificial material also has disadvantages:

1. The main disadvantages include its ability to store electricity. This property causes consumers great inconvenience when wearing, since at the most inopportune moment the dress or skirt can stick to the body. But the solution to the problem is quite simple - you need to use a special product, an antistatic agent. Natural materials do not have this problem.
2. Fabric is difficult to work with. Artificial silk cuts and irons well, but the edges of the product fray a lot. Therefore, many beginning craftswomen do not risk taking it to work. In addition, the fabric exhibits increased slipping, so cutting out parts is also not easy.
3. You can work with silk fabric only with special needles (they are very thin). If the needle is incorrectly selected, holes will remain in the stitching areas.
4. Artificial silk retains stains on clothes. Unlike natural material, which masks stains and odors, here, if a person sweats, stains will remain. It can be difficult to wash them; stains remain on things even when exposed to clean water. You should also not get the fabric wet during ironing, as marks will remain and the item will have to be rewashed.

Types of silk fabrics

In the production of silk fabrics, various weaving methods are used. The most popular include:

1. Satin.
2. Twill.
3. Linen.
4. Finely patterned.
5. Large patterned.

The main difference between all of these types is the beautiful shine inherent in silk.

Based on the composition of the fibers, the fabrics are divided into the presence of threads:

1. Natural.
2. Unnatural.
3. Synthetic.
4. Mixed ones.

Interesting. Mixed fabrics do not always include a composition of natural and synthetic fibers. The fabric may contain exclusively natural fibers, but of different origins. For example, in recent years, materials in which wool and silk fibers are mixed in different proportions are often used to sew suits and dresses.

1. Crepe.
2. Jacquard.
3. Gladyovae.
4. Pile.

1. A certain direction.
2. Piecewise (for sewing napkins, tablecloths and bedspreads).
3. Industrial.
4. Jackets and raincoats.
5. Decorative.
6. For textile haberdashery.
7. Lining fabric.
8. Shirt.
9. Dress and costume.
10. Dress and blouse.

Crepe materials

The crepe type of silk includes fabrics that were made using a right or left crepe twist in the warp or using a weft. This technique allows you to make the material rough, fine-grained with a mobile structure. It drapes well, stretches and has good elasticity. This technique uses two types of weave, depending on what is required at the end - crepe weave or full crepe weave.

The most common types of crepe materials include:

1. Crepe chiffon is a translucent, lightweight silk fabric consisting of double or triple crepe threads.
2. Crepe georgette is an elegant silk fabric, not as transparent as the previous representative of crepe fabrics, moreover, it is more shiny, and consists of three and four threads.
3. Crepe corrugated is a thin silk fabric that is a derivative of crepe de Chine or crepe georgette. A distinctive feature of this material, as you can guess from the name, is the “crumpled” surface, which is obtained by using weft threads with different crepe twists.

Semi-crepe fabrics

This variety primarily includes crepe de chine and light silk. Semi-crepe fabrics are based on metaxa silk raw material, which adds a glossy appeal to the material, and due to the use of plain weaving technology, the fabric structure drapes well, acquires stability and elasticity. Products made from crepe de Chine practically do not wrinkle and are therefore very practical to wear.

The next representatives of semi-crepe materials are crepe-satin and crepe-satin. The description of silk fabrics can be expressed this way: they have a fairly dense texture, are heavy, and outwardly almost do not differ from each other. The front side of crepe satin and satin is smooth, and the back side is fine-grained. In production, satin weaving with crepe twisting of weft threads is used. Crepe-satin and crepe-satin are used to make almost any product: daily wear, evening wear, clothing for sleep and relaxation, curtains, runners, covers and more.

Rep semi-crepe fabrics include crepe marroquin with a pronounced twist of the thread at the base. Such fabrics are practical, durable, very resistant to wear, and have a rough and embossed texture. Business suits, casual and formal attire are made from crepe marroquin.

Another representative of rep weaving is faidechine (a variation of crepe de chine). This material has a rather dense specific structure, due to which the transverse scar on the front side of the fabric is weakly expressed. This fabric is used for sewing clothes, and in exceptional cases, curtains.

Satin fabrics

Satin silk fabrics differ in fiber composition into the following types:

1. Viscose warp with acetate weft.
2. Acetate warp with viscose weft.
3. With a viscose base with triacetate weft.
4. With a triacetate base with viscose weft.

The entire satin subgroup of silk has the same properties, such as a completely smooth surface of the fabric and average density. The material is produced using plain, twill, satin or finely patterned technology of twisting from metaxa with a weakened flat twist, which does not give a crepe effect. Satin fabrics are visually similar to cotton representatives, but they are softer and more shiny.

The satin silk subgroup includes:

1. Satin/satin/wet silk. These are iridescent satin-twisted silk fabrics, smooth and glossy on the front side and matte on the back. These fabrics drape well.
2. Silk cloth. Medium density material with a delicate shine and the lowest degree of transparency. In terms of external features, the material is similar to staple fabric, but practically does not wrinkle.
3. Thin, not entirely transparent silk fabric with medium-twisted muslin threads. The fabric has an attractive appearance, but there is also a minus - thread divergence.
4. Chiffon. Thin and airy material. It can be plain, or silk fabric with patterns can also be found. Most often used for making shirts and dresses.
5. Toile, foulard. Both fabrics are made by plain weaving and are characterized by airiness and plasticity. Foulard is a lighter material.

Wet silk can be divided into several more types:

1. DuPont.
2. Charmeuse.

All these fabrics have varying degrees of density and shine. They are used for sewing dresses for evening outs and exclusive bed linen.

Jacquard fabrics

The canvases belonging to this group are highly decorative. Jacquard weaving, due to a variety of color tints from light to dark tones, adds volume to the fabric. And the shine inherent in iridescent silk fabric with a pattern visually provides the surface with a metallic effect. A wide variety of patterns can be found on jacquard fabrics: floral, multicolor, geometric or two-color. To emphasize the relief and textural contrasts, additional inclusions are used.

In the jacquard subgroup, the collection of fabrics is not very diverse. The main raw material for their production is acetate and triacetate fiber. Jacquard fabrics have a high density and are quite hard to the touch; an important advantage of this material is that it is easy to care for. Scope of application: sewing casual and elegant clothes, stage costumes and home textiles.

Pile materials

This group of fabrics has a high degree of decorativeness and elegance. Working with pile fabrics is quite difficult, so sewing products is carried out only by professional craftsmen who have the skills of cutting patterns, processing seams, and others.

Materials belonging to this subgroup are distinguished by the fact that they have a dense pile fastening and an ideal and expressive pattern.

Pile fabrics include:

1. Velvet for sewing dresses. Canvas with a continuous, fairly dense pile and a stable vertical arrangement. Most often this material is produced in a single color, but in rare cases you can find samples with a printed pattern.
2. Velor velvet. Dense material with smoothed, slightly inclined viscose pile, up to 2 mm high. This fabric is much heavier than that used for sewing dresses.
3. Etched velor velvet. The viscose pile is not located as a continuous fabric, but only in independent areas provided by the pattern.

Differences between natural materials and analogues of artificial and synthetic origin

It can be quite difficult to distinguish natural fabrics from their artificial counterparts, which cannot be said about synthetic fabrics, which do not exist in nature, but are extremely complex chemical compounds. When choosing products made of silk or material, you have to rely on personal feelings, which can either let you down or arrange a combustion test (which the seller is unlikely to allow). How to distinguish materials?

In order to understand what is in front of you, you need to pay attention to the following features:

1. Synthetic materials are a little stiffer, highly electrified, do not shrink and do not absorb moisture. Externally, synthetics have shimmers, the shine of which is much brighter than that of natural silk. When burning, the threads melt, the process is accompanied by the smell of burnt plastic.
2. Artificial silk is less elastic and wrinkles a lot. According to the second sign, it is very easy to determine what material is in front of you; to do this, just squeeze the product tightly in your fist and hold it for a few seconds, after which you need to smooth it out and evaluate the result. On cellulose fabrics that have undergone a mercerization process to obtain a natural shine, clear creases remain. In addition, rayon can be tested by setting the thread on fire. It will light up with an even fire like paper with its characteristic smell.
3. Natural Chinese silk is very smooth and pleasant to the touch; when you apply the material to your hand, it seems to “drip” from it. When in contact with the skin, silk does not cause discomfort, quickly taking on body temperature and forming the effect of a second skin. This property is explained by the fact that natural threads are a protein product of insect activity, and therefore are not rejected by skin receptors. If natural silk is set on fire, it does not burn, but smolders, releasing the smell of burnt hair or wool in the process. After burning, a caked lump remains, which can be easily rubbed with your fingers.

Nowadays, there are a great many types of silk, but with such a choice, the main thing is not to make a mistake in its authenticity. How can you tell where the fabric is fake and where it is real?

It won't be difficult. Pull several threads from the fabric and set them on fire - natural silk does not burn and has the smell of burnt hair. And a baked lump of faded silk fibers can be rubbed in your hands like an ordinary coal. This method of determining authenticity provides almost 100% accuracy.

other methods

Another less accurate way to determine the authenticity of natural silk is based on sensations. Take a piece of cloth and apply it to your body or cheek. You should experience only pleasant sensations and no discomfort. Silk has special thermal properties, thanks to which it will immediately reach your body temperature. Due to these properties, silk is often called “second skin”.

It should also be noted that natural silk differs from artificial silk in the structure of its fibers. Silk fibers are softer and more elastic, so fabrics made from natural silk wrinkle less. To test this theory, you need to gather the fabric into folds and squeeze it in your fist. Then, after a few seconds, look at the result of the tissue being wrinkled. Artificial fabric will have clear creases, while natural silk will be barely noticeable.

Buy

Natural silk and products made from it are popular all over the world. For many centuries, silk was the fabric of kings and the rich. You can feel and appreciate all the luxury of natural silk, as well as bed linen made of natural silk, in our online store, or in our offline store at Kronstadtsky Blvd., 7.

Look

Today, the total production of silk fabrics is second in volume only to the production of fabrics made from cotton threads. At the same time, you need to understand that modern silk is made not only from natural raw materials, but also from chemical or mixed fibers, and the share of authentic products on the market is insignificant and amounts to only 2-3% of the total volume.

What are silk fabrics made from?

Silk is woven from natural, artificial and synthetic threads. The last two varieties can be combined into one group - chemical. Natural is an elite and expensive silk fabric with a large number of advantages that its chemical analogues do not have, these are:

• High hygroscopicity. The ability to absorb moisture up to half its weight and dry quickly.
• Hypoallergenic. Does not accumulate dust, does not electrify, does not cause allergies, prevents the growth of microbes and neutralizes unpleasant odors.
• Excellent thermoregulation. Under such clothing, a comfortable body temperature for a person is maintained in any weather.
• Air and vapor permeability. Despite the high density, products made from natural fibers perfectly allow air and water vapor to pass through, providing optimal conditions for the functioning of the human body.
• Durability and wear resistance. Silk fabric lasts for many years without loss of quality. It is resistant even to vinegar and alcohol. It can only be damaged by a concentrated solution of alkali or acid or by constant exposure to the sun.
• Fire safety. When hit by a spark, it does not burn, but only slowly smolders, spreading the smell of burnt feathers around.

The disadvantages of products made from natural protein fibers include:

• high cost;
• large (up to 5%) shrinkage;
• poor shape retention;
• low heat resistance;
• Difficulty in sewing (flowability, warping).

Production Features

Silk production is a very labor-intensive process, so experiments have been carried out over the centuries to create a synthetic analogue. The first thoughts on this topic can be traced in the work of the famous English naturalist Robert Hooke, published back in 1667. A little later, Hooke's initiatives were further developed in the ideas of his French colleague René Reaumur. A century later, in 1842, the German inventor and manufacturer Ludwig Schwabe presented to the world a prototype of the first machine for the production of chemical thread. Another 13 years passed after this event, and a method for transforming mulberry cellulose using sulfuric and nitric acid was patented in England. Further experiments and practical developments have proven their worth in practice, leading to the fact that all types of silk fabrics produced today are almost 97% artificial or synthetic.

Artificial threads are made from cellulose compounds. Fibers from this natural, renewable source of raw materials are the most hygienic. Currently, there are three types of fibers made from high molecular weight cellulose, with different comparative characteristics:

1. Viscose.
2. Acetate.
3. Triacetate.

In addition to the above artificial types of fibers, there are also synthetic varieties: polyamide (for example, nylon, anide, epan) and polyester (for example, lavsan). Their main disadvantages are considered to be low hygroscopicity and increased electrification.

Why are chemical analogues of natural material called silk?

The established designation - silk fabric, no longer confuses anyone, even if the buyer purchases a product that is the result of achievements in the chemical industry. But still, ideally, only material made from the protein threads of the cocoon of a silkworm caterpillar can be called this: mulberry or oak. And all other varieties would be more correctly called fakes, then there would be no need to add the prefix word “natural” to real silk.

If you approach the question of whether a particular material belongs to silk from a chemical perspective, then their difference in molecular structure immediately becomes obvious. And if you try to synthesize in a laboratory the protein structure of the vital product of a unique butterfly, then the output may be an identical material, the cost of which will be many times higher than the price of natural raw materials.

It is impossible to combine the entire range of this type of fabric and weaving. There are a huge number of varieties obtained using different weaving methods. For example, satin is characterized by satin weave, twill - twill, etc., but all these fabrics are classified as silk.

And yet why are all these species combined into one large group? Let's try to understand this issue step by step. In first place, you can put the aesthetic component based on visual perception (for example: I see - it’s made of silk). The second connection criterion can be the consumer’s tactile perception of a particular type (for example: to the touch I feel that this is a silk thing). The considered aspects are unifying factors for all segments of silk groups and related subgroups, regardless of what the material is made from.

Let's summarize. Color design, shine or dullness, elasticity, resilience, iridescence, hardness or softness and other characteristics will be the conditions that unite silk fabrics according to aesthetic criteria, that is, the unification should be sought in the consumer (associative) properties of this large group.

Types of silk fabrics

Silk fabrics are produced in various weaving methods. The most popular of them:

• satin;
• twill;
• linen;
• finely patterned;
• large-patterned.

An important feature of all these varieties is a noble shine that is pleasing to the eye.

Based on their fiber composition, they are divided into thread products:

• natural;
• artificial;
• synthetic;
• mixed

Blended material is not necessarily a mixture of natural and chemical fibers. It can consist of only natural fibers, but of different origins. For example, recently when sewing suits and dresses, wool and silk fabric in a percentage ratio of 60/40 has been very popular.

All these groups, in turn, can be divided into subgroups according to texture:

• crepe;
• satinfish;
• jacquard;
• pile.

And also into subgroups according to purpose:

• special purpose;
• piece (bedspreads and tablecloths);
• technical;
• raincoats and jackets;
• decorative;
• for textile haberdashery;
• lining;
• shirts;
• dress and suit;
• dress and blouse.

Crepe fabrics

Crepe silks include types of silk made using right-handed or left-handed crepe twist in the warp or weft. This twist provides the material with roughness, fine grain, flexible structure and drape, as well as good stretch and elasticity. As for the weave, it can be either crepe or pure crepe.

The most common types of crepe materials are:

1. Crepe chiffon or silk chiffon is a soft, translucent and lightweight silk fabric made from two or three thread crepe.
2. Crepe georgette is a thin silk fabric, not as sheer as crepe chiffon, more shiny than crepe satin, made from three- and four-strand crepe.
3. Crepe corrugated is a thin silk made from crepe georgette or crepe de Chine, characterized by a “crinkled” surface achieved by using weft threads with different crepe twists.

Semi-crepe types include, first of all, thin crepe de Chine silk. It is based on raw silk (metaxa), which provides this material with an attractive gloss, and plain weave gives it structural stability, elasticity and drape. Products made from crepe de Chine have reduced wrinkleability, which makes them practical to wear.

Semi-crepes also include such dense and heavy silk fabric as crepe-satin and crepe-satin, which is very similar in appearance. They are distinguished by a smooth front surface and a fine-grained back and a satin weave with crepe twisted weft threads. They are used everywhere: from clothes for daily wear, evening dresses and negligees to tablecloths, covers, curtains and stage blinds.

Rep weaving fabrics include crepe marroquin, with a very tightly twisted thread at the base. It has good wear resistance and strength, relief texture and roughness. Casual and evening dresses and suits are made from it. Another representative of rep weaving, a type of crepe de chine, is faide chine with increased structural density, which is why its front side does not have an obvious transverse scar. It is also used to make clothes and sometimes curtains.

Satin fabrics

Like the above materials, they are very diverse in their fiber composition. Silk smooth shiny fabric can be:

1. With viscose warp and acetate weft.
2. With acetate warp and viscose weft.
3. With viscose warp and triacetate weft.
4. With triacetate warp and viscose weft.

Fabrics of the satin subgroup share such common properties as a smooth surface and low density. They are made using plain, twill, satin or finely patterned weaving from metaxa with a weak gentle twist, which does not give a crepe effect. The list of the satin subgroup includes foulards and toiles, which are based on metaxa, and the weft is a thread with a low degree of twist. Representatives of this group are similar in appearance to cotton ones, but softer and more shiny.

The most popular satin varieties are:

• Satin - satin or wet silk - iridescent silk fabric of satin weave with a shine on the front side and a matte back. They drape well.
• Silk canvas is a dense silk fabric with a soft sheen and minimal transparency. Externally similar to staple fabric, but has less creasing.
• Muslin is a thin, transparent silk fabric with iridescence from medium (muslin) twist threads. They have a pleasant appearance, but have one drawback - the extendability of the threads.
• Chiffon is a thin and light silk fabric. It comes with both plain-colored and printed patterns. Most often used for sewing blouses and dresses.
• Toile, foulard - both types are made of plain weaving and are soft and light. Moreover, the foulard is slightly lighter than the toil.

Wet silk, in turn, is also divided into several varieties: duPont, charmeuse and faille - with varying degrees of gloss and density, used primarily for sewing luxurious evening dresses and exclusive bed linen.

Jacquard fabrics

This subgroup is highly decorative. Jacquard weaving gives the material volume due to all sorts of color variations from light to dark. The sheen of this iridescent patterned silk fabric adds a metallic finish to the look. Patterns on jacquard can be different: floral, geometric, two-color, multicolor. Additional inclusions enhance the contrasts of texture and emphasize the relief.

The range of jacquard subgroup is not very large. The raw material for it is mainly acetate and triacetate fiber. Jacquard fabrics are very dense, somewhat harsh to the touch and are distinguished by one very good quality - they do not require significant effort when caring for them. Areas of application: elegant and casual clothing, stage costumes, all kinds of home textiles.

Pile fabrics

Pile materials are highly decorative and elegant. They are very difficult to process and working with them requires special professional skills, including the correct layout of patterns and care when processing seams. The main quality criteria for the material of this subgroup include tight and durable attachment of the pile, the absence of defects in the design and its expressiveness.

Pile varieties include:

• dress velvet – the pile is continuous, with a stable vertical arrangement, quite dense, and small. Most often it is plain-colored, less often found with a printed pattern;
• velor-velvet is a dense material with a smooth, slightly inclined viscose pile 2 mm long. This type of velvet is much heavier than dress velvet;
• etched velor velvet - viscose pile, not continuous, but made in separate sections of the canvas, taking into account the pattern.

How to distinguish natural textiles from artificial and synthetic analogues

It is sometimes very difficult to distinguish natural materials from artificial ones, in contrast to synthetic analogues, which are not natural, but exist only in the form of complex chemical compounds. Apart from relying on personal feelings, which are sometimes deceptive, or using a simple method of testing for combustion, there is simply no way for an ordinary buyer to tell the difference.

You should look out for the following signs:

• Synthetics are more rigid, do not shrink, are highly electrified, do not absorb liquid, and despite the fact that synthetic silk fabric also has iridescence, they have a sharper shine. When burned, the threads melt with a characteristic “plastic” smell.
• Artificial silk is not as elastic as natural silk and wrinkles more easily. The organoleptic comparison method is based on the last feature: you need to strongly squeeze a crumpled piece of cut in your fist and hold it for a few seconds, then straighten it and look at the result. Cellulose canvases, mercerized to impart a natural shine, leave clear creases. Another way is to set fire to the thread of the “tested” sample. Artificial matter will burn “like paper”, with an even, continuous burning, with a corresponding papery smell.
• Real silk is pleasant to the touch and so smooth that when hung on your hand, it literally “drips” from it. When applied to the skin, it does not cause discomfort: it quickly heats up to body temperature, creating the effect of a “second skin”. This quality is manifested due to the fact that natural threads are a protein product of insect activity and are not “foreign” for the receptors of our skin. When ignited, natural fiber smolders and under normal conditions is not able to burn on its own without external sources (it quickly “throws off” the flame). During smoldering, it emits a faint smell of burnt wool or hair. After combustion, a caked lump remains, easily rubbed with your fingers.

Caring for silk products requires a separate, individual description due to the “variegation” of raw materials used for its production.

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Silk is a soft and durable fabric with a pleasant glossy shine. The technology for making the thread is unique - it is obtained by unwinding miniature silkworm cocoons. The secret of making silk was known only in China for a long time. Despite the fact that the noble fabric is now produced in India, Brazil and other countries of the world, China remains the largest silk producer to this day.

Taffeta

The main feature (or taffets) is rigidity and dimensional stability. Petticoats and linings are made from this material. The Persians used the word “taffeta” to describe any woven material. Tightly twisted threads are connected in a secure plain weave.

Character traits:

• wear resistance;
• durability;
• pleasant glossy shine;
• dimensional stability;
• moisture repellence.

Due to the strength of the fabric, waxed taffeta was used to make balloons and cover the wings and tails of some early aircraft.

Taffeta can be single-colored, printed, crinkled and smooth, as well as with a large woven pattern.

Toile

The toile began to be made in France to replace the expensive printed Indian chintz fabric. The main feature is a color pattern printed on top of a plain canvas. Popular stories:

• floral designs;
• images of animals;
• pastoral scenes.

The weave of the warp and weft threads is plain. The toile is also made from natural silk. Unlike its cotton counterpart, silk is smoother, shiny, delicate and festive. This material was often used to cover walls in living rooms.

Chiffon

Chiffon-silk

Real silk chiffon is an expensive, elite material. Very light fabric, slightly sandy to the touch. The threads for creating chiffon are twisted tightly (as well as for making other light fabrics).

Basic properties:

• ease;
• color fastness;
• strength;
• hypoallergenic;
• hygroscopicity;
• antibacterial.

Among the varieties of chiffon are pearl chiffon, glossy satin chiffon, rough crepe chiffon, jacquard chiffon and iridescent fabric with a chameleon effect.

Chesucha (wild silk)

The fabric consists of a plain weave of fibers of uneven thickness. This material is produced either from the remnants of silk yarn and rejected fibers, or from the cocoons not of the silkworm, but of a butterfly called Antheraea mylitta. The material is dense but light. Unprocessed garlic has a yellow-brown color.

Advantages:

• affordable price;
• strength;
• hygroscopicity;
• aesthetic matte shine.

Casual clothes and outerwear for any season and climate are sewn from chesucha. The threads contain amino acids that have a beneficial effect on the condition of the skin.

Foulard

Foulard shawl fabric

This thin silk material is called garter fabric. The foulard appeared in the 18th century in Europe. Translated from French it means a scarf. The weave of the fabric is very simple and reliable - plain. The foulard is painted in various colors and decorated with prints.

Fabric properties:

• antibacterial;
• hypoallergenic;
• hygroscopicity;
• drapeability.

Foulard cannot be called a very durable fabric. Curtains, lampshades, scarves and stoles, as well as accessories (artificial flowers, brooches) are made from this material.

Properties and uses of silk

Having examined various types of fabrics, we can conclude that the main distinguishing feature of natural silk is its soft, noble shine. The fiber has a triangular cross-section and refracts light like a prism. Thanks to this optical effect, silk items look light, elegant, and resemble the smooth surface of water.

Flaws:

• requires delicate care and careful handling of the iron;
• silk should be protected from sunlight;
• high price.

A large number of different products are sewn from silk:

• women's clothing (blouses, skirts, jackets, trousers);
• dresses (wedding, evening, cocktail);
• men's clothing (shirts, ties);
• lingerie (corsets, panties, bras);
• home clothes (robes, suits);
• bed linen (pillowcases, sheets, duvet covers, and decorative pillows);
• curtains (lambrequins, curtains, drapes);
• household textiles (napkins,);
• lining for outerwear (coats, jackets, fur coats);
• furniture upholstery (chairs, sofas, poufs);
• decor and accessories (ribbons, hair clips, scarves).

Interesting fact: silk threads are also used as a surgical suture material for treating wounds and various injuries.

Subtleties of care

Silk is a noble and delicate material. Things should be protected from puffs, animal claws, and exposure to high temperatures. Silk requires care and skill when ironing. To maintain a neat appearance of the fabric, you should adhere to several general rules:

• Silk can be washed by hand in warm water (30 degrees), avoiding sharp twisting.
• In the washing machine, select a delicate or gentle mode (depending on the model of equipment, they are called differently). Some washing machines are equipped with a special “silk” mode. The temperature regime is maintained (30 degrees).
• The washed fabric should be rinsed in warm water (25 degrees). You can also add vinegar (five tablespoons per ten liters of water) - this technique will help enhance the brightness of the silk.
• The material can be wrung out by hand or in a machine, you just need to make sure that the process is gentle.
• Silk is dried in the shade outside or in a well-ventilated area - under the influence of ultraviolet radiation the fabric may change color. Things are straightened well or hung on hangers.
• The fabric is kept away from heating devices.
• Silk is ironed with a slightly heated iron. There are special automatic modes of the same name for ironing.

When buying silk, you should be wary of counterfeits made from viscose or synthetic threads. Artificial fabric has a dull shine and the front side may be uneven. When compressed, unnatural silk wrinkles and retains its crease shape. If you set fire to synthetic thread, it will smell like plastic, and viscose thread will smell like wood. When set on fire, a silk thread burns very slowly, smells like burnt feathers, and forms a gray ball at the end.

Despite the high cost of the fabric, natural silk clothing is very popular. It is considered prestigious and is suitable for everyday wear, office work, and various special occasions.

Silk is a valuable fabric that is known throughout the world for its soft shine, unique smoothness and high strength. It was from natural silk that in ancient times the robes of kings and noble nobles were made. Now the precious material is available to everyone: it is used to make magnificent clothes and shoes, luxurious interior decorations and valuable home textiles.

Silk, unlike other fabrics, is not made from materials of plant or animal origin. It is made from the cocoons of silkworm caterpillars.

Appearance of material

The world owes the appearance of silk to ancient Chinese masters, who began extracting silk thread from cocoons a couple of millennia BC. At that time, silk fabric was produced by hand, so only emperors and nobility had products made from it.

The Chinese understood the value of this amazing fabric, so they kept the secret of its production a secret. A person who dared to divulge the secret of silk production was sentenced to death. However, by the 4th century, silk production technology had become known in Korea, Japan and India. In 550, this art became available to Europeans.

The color of passion.

Manufacturing technology

The technology for making silk is very complex. Moths and silkworm caterpillars are raised in special nurseries. Once the caterpillar is wrapped in a cocoon, it is killed and the cocoon is softened in hot water. Then they unwind it. From 300 to 1000 m of silk fiber are obtained from one cocoon. The thread is compacted by twisting 5–8 fibers at a time and wound into spools.

The spools are sorted, processed, and sometimes the fibers are additionally twisted to increase density. The finished material is sent to the factory. There the yarn is soaked in water and dyed. It is then used to make fabrics with different weaves. The type of silk fabric will depend on the type of weaving and thread density.

Important! Now different countries are engaged in the production of this material. However, China is still considered the leader in the supply of natural silk to the world market.

Chemical and physical properties of silk fabrics

Silk composition

Silk thread is similar in chemical composition to human hair or animal fur: it consists of 97% protein, the rest is wax and fats. Its composition is as follows:

• 18 amino acids;
• 2% potassium and sodium;
• 3% fat and wax components;
• 40% sericin;
• 80% fibroin.

Natural silk is very expensive: not every person can afford a product made from this material. Therefore, factories have now appeared that produce artificial fabrics - cupro silk (from viscose) and synthetic silk. Externally, synthetics differ little from natural fabric, but do not have its wear resistance, strength and hygiene.

Important! The strength of silk decreases when exposed to temperatures above 110°C or ultraviolet rays. The fabric becomes fragile and can tear from minor physical impacts. When exposed to the sun for a long time (more than 200 hours), the strength of silk is reduced by half.

Properties of silk

Natural silk has gained popularity due to its amazing properties. The features of silk fabric are:

1. High density, wear resistance and resistance to vinegar and alcohol. Only a concentrated solution of acid or alkali can damage the material.
2. Smoothness, soft shine and bright shimmer. Silk pleasantly adheres to the skin, gently flows along the body and softly shines, making products made from it look royally luxurious.
3. Bactericidal and hypoallergenic properties. Silk prevents the growth of bacteria, absorbs unpleasant odors and does not cause allergies. This is why it is often used to make clothing and bedding.
4. The creaseability of the material depends on the type. Plain weave silk wrinkles easily. But lycra silk or jacquard silk hardly wrinkles.
5. The fabric is not subject to combustion: when a spark hits a silk product, it begins to smolder, spreading the smell of burnt feathers.

Fabric characteristics

For fans of silk clothing, other properties of the material are also important:

• The fabric can be dyed well in any shade due to the high hygroscopicity of the material:
• perfectly passes and absorbs water, does not electrify, stretches well;
• has average shrinkage: after washing, silk fabric always shrinks and can lose up to 5% of its original length.

Important! Silk is used for more than just clothing. Beautiful souvenirs are made from it, it is used in embroidery, knitting and felting, and crepe de Chine, foulard or toile are an excellent basis for paintings and scarves using the batik technique.

Varieties of silk

There are many varieties of silk fabrics. They differ in thread quality, appearance, structure, weaving pattern and properties.

The most common types of silk fabric:

1. Toile- a material with a plain weave that holds its shape well and is distinguished by its soft shine and high density. Used for sewing dresses, skirts, linings for outerwear and ties.
2. Silk-satin- fabric with satin weave, which has two sides: a shiny front and a matte back. Satin drapes well and can have different densities. Used for making clothes, shoes and interior decoration.
3. Silk chiffon- fabric with a plain weave. It is soft, transparent, rough and matte. Used for blouses, dresses, dressing gowns.
4. DuPont– dense fabric with shine. Used for sewing curtains, drapes and vertical blinds.
5. Foulard– light and shiny fabric, suitable for making linen and scarves. It is very popular among batik masters.

There are other types of fabric: gauze, organza, silk-viscose, excelsior, brocade, chesucha.

Areas of use

The areas of application of silk are numerous:

1. Making clothes. Both winter and summer clothes are made from silk fabrics, since this material maintains a comfortable body temperature in any weather. In addition, silk products have an attractive appearance, absorb unpleasant odors, prevent the growth of bacteria on the skin and do not cause allergies.
2. Medicine. Silk has disinfectant and bactericidal properties, which is why it is used as a suture material in surgery (even in such delicate areas as eye or neurosurgery). For performing surgical sutures, threads made from the outer or inner fiber of the cocoon - buret silk - are best suited.
3. Home textiles. This hypoallergenic material, in which bedbugs and dust mites do not breed, is perfect for making home textiles. Thick silk is used to make curtains, roller blinds, bed linen, furniture covers, and bedspreads.

Advantages and disadvantages of natural silk

Advantages of the material:

Cons of silk:

• expensive;
• needs special careful care;
• does not tolerate washing in very hot water;
• requires care when ironing;
• loses strength with prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation;
• becomes dirty when liquid or sweat gets on the surface.

Despite the fact that silk products have a number of disadvantages, this fabric remains popular all over the world.

Silk is a delicate fabric that requires careful wear and careful care. Basic recommendations for caring for silk items are as follows:

• wash by hand at a temperature not exceeding 30ºС or in a machine in the “Delicate Wash” or “Silk” mode;
• Do not use regular alkaline powder for washing: you need to purchase a detergent labeled “for silk”;
• Do not use bleach or fabric softener;
• Do not crush, twist or squeeze the material too hard so as not to spoil its structure;
• to dry a silk item, it is advisable to wrap it in a towel, allow excess moisture to be absorbed, and then place the item on a horizontal surface and leave until dry;
• You can iron silk in the “Silk” mode without steam; ironing a wet product is prohibited;
• After washing, colored silk should be rinsed in cool water with the addition of vinegar (5 tablespoons of 9% vinegar per 10 liters of water).

If you take proper care of your silk items, they will last you for many years.