Houses built from profiled timber are popular, and this is no coincidence. Among the main advantages of the house, it is worth highlighting the speed of installation, since during the construction process the structure is assembled in a short period of time. To build a house from profiled timber with your own hands, you must follow the advice of experts.

Initial stage of construction

First of all, a design project is drawn up. In the process of drawing up a plan, it is important to take into account all the nuances that will affect the cost of materials and work. You can make a plan yourself or turn to professionals who know their business and can do the job.

When harvesting wood yourself, it is worth considering the fact that it is better to do this during the cold period. Wood should take a long time to dry. But in cold weather it is better to refuse work, as wet wood becomes brittle.

To build a house, you need to use wood with a moisture content of no more than 20%, otherwise it will warp and cracks will appear in the walls.

When choosing wood, it is important to give preference to a material without cracks. Next, the log is cut and treated with an antiseptic. If desired, you can purchase wood that has already been processed, in which grooves will be cut. As a result, folding the house will not be difficult.

In order to understand how to do a quality job, it is important to follow the rules.

We are building a house

Construction of a house must begin with determining the required type of foundation. For this purpose, it is necessary to study the occurrence of groundwater, become familiar with the structure of the foundation of neighboring houses, as well as the composition of the soil.

For a wooden structure, a pile, columnar or strip shallow foundation is considered an excellent option.

Strip foundation device

1. Work begins by marking the boundaries of the foundation along the internal and external corners of the future building with a cord and pegs.
2. After marking, it is checked. To do this, the diagonals are measured - they must be the same.
3. Next, following the markings, they dig a trench about a meter deep.
4. You can lay geotextiles at the bottom, and install thermal insulation material along the outer edge of the trench - this will protect the shallow strip foundation from freezing.
5. Fill in pre-moistened sand, the layer of which reaches 10 cm, and compact it.
6. After this, the same layer of sand is poured and compacted again.
7. The top is covered with crushed stone, maintaining the previous thickness (10 cm). This cake needs to be thoroughly compacted.
8. Formwork is being made. You can assemble it yourself or order it from specialists. The first option assumes the presence of wood in which there are no cracks. It can be made non-removable using fiberboard boards. Custom formwork must be made of plastic or steel. The formwork is placed in the trench and leveled. Strength can be increased using a frame made of Ø 10 mm reinforcement. Experts recommend using two reinforcement belts. They cannot be placed at a distance closer than 3 cm from each other, but they should enter the trench freely without touching its edges.
9. The formwork is moistened with water and concrete is poured.
10. If the formwork is made of wood, it needs to be moistened with more water. Otherwise, the wood may absorb moisture from the cement mortar, and it is even better to cover the boards with plastic film.
11. The formwork can be removed after a few days, after the solution has dried.
12. Extruded polystyrene foam boards, 5 cm thick, are used as insulation material. The foundation at the corners is insulated with a layer of 8 cm.
13. The sides of the foundation need to be tarred.
14. The surface of the foundation is insulated with roofing felt, laid in 2 layers.
15. The excavated soil is backfilled.

Construction of the floor

For the walls, a beam with a section of 150×150 mm is required. After laying the first row, it is treated with an antiseptic. Floor joists are also installed, which are laid on edge. The cross-section of the beam should be 100×50 mm. They can be placed on the foundation and attached to the walls of the structure.

Two logs are placed on walls opposite each other. A construction thread is pulled between them, maintaining a distance of one and a half meters. The threads will indicate the level at which other logs can be set and mounted.

The gaps formed between the lags are filled with insulation, which is used as polystyrene foam, mineral wool or polystyrene foam. If the boards intended for laying the floor reach a thickness of 40 mm, the distance between the lags should be about 80 cm. The height of the lags is adjusted using wedges made of thin plywood, which are secured with self-tapping screws or long nails. Logs and wedges are secured to a wooden base with wood screws or long nails. When installing logs on a concrete base, dowels or anchors are used.

Now you can attach the boards. The best option would be boards with a cross section of 25×150 mm. To do this, you need to step back 1 cm from the wall and strengthen a row of boards, focusing on the thread. If the boards will be fastened with self-tapping screws, a hole is drilled for them, after which the board is attached to the joists. The subfloor must be covered with a layer of thermal insulation and waterproofing. For this, polyethylene or penofol is used. A wooden flooring made of tongue and groove boards is laid on the subfloor.

Walling

During the work process, the beams are laid out one by one. At the same time, they are fastened together with dowels, which prevent the timber from moving. The material for dowels is wood or metal.

It is better to purchase wooden dowels, as metal ones can rot.

• In order to build walls using dowels, you need to drill holes in the logs into which they will be inserted. In this case, the diameter of the hole will be 4 cm. The distance between the holes should be 1.5 m.

• When laying beams, it is important to lay insulation between them. For partitions, you can use timber with a cross-section of 100×150 mm. They are carried out only after the construction of the log house is completed.
• You can reduce the cost of your home by building internal frame walls. To do this, create a frame from bars, the cross-section of which is 50x50 mm, and cover it with clapboard.
• To make the house fireproof, it is coated with a special product, which is applied with a regular brush or using a spray bottle.
• Installation of windows is carried out only after shrinkage of the structure. You can give preference to metal-plastic or wooden windows.

The most suitable option is considered to be ondulin, metal tiles or corrugated sheets.

• First of all, before laying the Mauerlat, the wall is insulated using waterproof material. This is necessary in order to preserve the timber from rotting. Roofing felt, which is placed in a couple of layers, is suitable as an insulating material.
• Then they attach the Mauerlat, which is presented in the form of a beam. The best option would be hardwood treated with an antiseptic. This material will be an ideal support for wooden rafters. The beams are laid using a level along the entire length of the walls, from pediment to pediment. To secure the Mauerlat, you need to use a 12mm drill, the length of which reaches 300 mm. The Mauerlat is drilled and entered to a depth of 200 mm into the wall of the house. They take the cut reinforcement using a sledgehammer and hammer it into the drilled holes. The ends of the reinforcement can be bent.
• Beams are installed, then rafters. Lastly, the sheathing.
• After the walls are erected, ceiling joists are installed. At the same time, their ends protrude beyond the edge of the wall by 50 cm. The cross-section of the logs should be 50×100 mm. They are laid out on edge. The distance between them is 90 cm.
• A rafter structure is assembled, the basis of which is boards with a cross-section of 50×150 mm. This system should be strengthened as much as possible with crossbars and braces.
• Fronts made of timber with a cross-section of 150×150 mm are laid.
• The sheathing (section 25×150 mm) is nailed onto the rafters.
• To prevent condensation from accumulating, a vapor barrier is made with a layer of waterproofing, after which the roofing material is installed.

How to insulate a house made of timber

In order to save money on heating in the future, it is important to pay attention to home insulation. External thermal insulation occurs by reducing the moisture content of the beams. The most popular finishing option is clapboard finishing. You can also use mineral wool, flax-jute fiber, glass wool slabs. The latter option is laid using a foil vapor barrier layer. Thus, the heat will be directed indoors.

It is not recommended to use polystyrene foam when insulating a house made of timber, as it prevents the evaporation of moisture from the wood, which can lead to rotting of the material. It is better to use a membrane vapor-permeable layer.

To cover the walls inside the house, you can use clapboard or drywall.

Many people mistakenly believe that a house made of profiled timber does not shrink. It is, of course, not so big, but it is important to remember this and not install windows and doors rigidly.

The step-by-step instructions provided will allow anyone to cope with the work, even those without experience in this type of construction.

Video

This video demonstrates the assembly of an eco-friendly house from profiled timber:

Watch a video about which timber profile to choose for a house under construction:

Photo

Houses made of profiled timber are cozy and reliable. They proved their worth many years ago. A lot of time has passed, but the advantages of wooden houses are only increasing. Nowadays, such houses are built quite quickly, because they are assembled like a children's construction set. This is also facilitated by the presence of special fasteners and the availability of materials. In this article we will look at how you can build a house from profiled timber yourself.

1. Installation of base and floor
2. Insulation and finishing of the house

Features of profiled timber

Profiled timber is a building material that is extracted from coniferous trees, for example, pine, cedar, spruce, and larch. If you look closely at the material, you will notice that the inner side is smooth and planed, and the outer side has the shape of a semi-oval, or it can also be smooth. There are special grooves and tenons on the sides that allow you to quickly and efficiently fasten the timber together. The main advantage of profiled timber is considered to be environmentally friendly, since it is made without the use of glue.

The material is also very warm and relatively inexpensive. These moments captivate many people. As mentioned above, profiled timber is quite easy and quick to assemble, which is good news for lovers of self-construction. But do not forget that profiled timber is a tree on which pores remain. Over time, mold, fungi, etc. may appear there. Therefore, it is always necessary to treat wood with special protective compounds.

Profiled timber has practically no cracks, but if they appear, they can expand over time. It is very important to ensure that the cracks do not turn through. Also remember that all wooden houses do not tolerate moisture. Therefore, you should carefully monitor the roof and not delay its repair. If your home will be periodically exposed to cold weather, additional insulation should be done.

Start of construction of a timber house

It is very important to design a house made from profiled timber. When you draw up a plan, carefully and accurately make all the calculations, since this will play a very important role in the purchase of material. You can draw a design for your future home yourself, or you can contact a construction company. Before you start preparing for construction, you should understand that the best time for construction is winter.

If you plan to harvest wood yourself, it is better to do this in the cold season and dry it for a long time at home. In this case, the timber will shrink evenly and calmly. But you should not go to extremes - in severe frosts it is better to refuse such work, since the tree can become very fragile.

When preparing the material yourself, you must take into account all the factors and choose a healthy tree without cracks. After this, you need to cut the logs evenly and treat them with a special antiseptic. You can purchase ready-made material that will be cut to suit your needs. Also, grooves will be cut there, and you will just have to lay out the house from profiled timber with your own hands, like a designer.

Building a foundation for a house

Before you decide on the type of foundation you need, study the geological conditions. To do this, you should find out the groundwater indicator, the composition of the soil, and look at the foundation structures of already built houses in this area. Strip foundations are often laid for houses made of concrete, brick or cinder blocks. The process of constructing such foundations is quite simple, but is characterized by high material consumption and labor intensity.

For wooden buildings made of timber, a columnar, pile or shallowly buried strip foundation is ideal. Let's look at the scheme for constructing a shallowly buried strip foundation. It all starts with the markup. It is very important to be precise in this process. Mark the outer and inner corners of the building with pegs. After this, you need to combine them with cording to add volume. This way you will understand what the foundation should look like.

After this, you can begin to dig a hole, the depth of which should not exceed 60 centimeters. But it’s also not worth making the depth too small, because we are building a house from profiled timber and do not want to reduce the strength of the structure with our rash actions. Two bayonets of a shovel will be enough. In this case, you should not deviate from the initial markings by more than 20 centimeters. After this, you need to put a crushed stone cushion. As part of this procedure, the bottom of the trench is covered with a layer of sand (or dense soil) of 10 centimeters and a layer of crushed stone of the same thickness.

You can make the formwork yourself or order it. Homemade formwork is made from wood that has no cracks or seams. When ordering, it is better to choose steel or plastic formwork. You must install the formwork in the trench and align it in the center. To increase strength, it makes sense to use reinforcement - parallel rods with jumpers. The diameter of the reinforcement must be at least 1 centimeter.

It is advisable to use a frame and at least 2 reinforcement belts. When welding, they should not be placed closer than 3 centimeters. The rods should fit freely into the trench, but not be closer than 5 centimeters. After this, you can moisten the formwork with water and begin pouring concrete. If you are using wood formwork, wet it down a bit to prevent the wood from absorbing moisture from the solution. The formwork is removed immediately after the solution has dried.

For insulation, you can use extruded polystyrene foam slabs of 5 centimeters each, and 8 centimeters at the corners of the foundation. When the sides of the foundation of a house made of profiled timber are tarred, crushed stone is poured in place of the formwork. This is necessary for waterproofing. The upper part of the foundation can be insulated using roofing felt. Then it is necessary to carry out backfilling, for which you can use previously removed soil.

Installation of base and floor

The construction of any house begins with the creation of a row, which is laid on a treated and leveled waterproofing foundation. It is worth noting that for external walls it is necessary to use timber with a section of 150 by 150 millimeters, and for the floor and internal walls - 100 by 50 millimeters. When the first row is laid, it should be treated with an antiseptic for good strengthening. After this, it is necessary to install floor joists, which should preferably be laid on edge.

The logs can be installed on the foundation of the house and attached to the walls of the log house, as shown in the video about houses made of profiled timber. They must be placed indoors and left there for several days to get used to the temperature. Two logs should be placed on opposite walls and nylon threads should be stretched between them, every one and a half meters. These threads will serve as a guide for making the rest of the logs. Gaps and voids will form between the lags, which should be filled with insulation. For insulation, you can choose sawdust, polystyrene foam, isolon, mineral wool and polystyrene foam.

If you lay logs from boards 30 - 40 centimeters thick, then the distance between them should be 80 centimeters. If the thickness of the floor boards is less, the distance should be 50 - 60 centimeters, and for too thick boards - about 1 meter. Using wedges made of thin plywood or wood, you can adjust the height of the joists. You can strengthen the wedges using self-tapping screws or long nails. The logs are secured with anchors or dowels. After this, you can proceed to installing and strengthening the boards.

You should retreat one and a half centimeters from the wall and strengthen the first row of boards along a stretched line. Holes should be drilled for self-tapping screws. It is necessary to lay a board on each joist and strengthen it. If there are gaps between the wall and the floor, they can be covered with plinths or staples, which should be connected to the board and secured with nails. The subfloor is covered with thermal insulation on both sides. Boards with a cross section of 25 by 150 millimeters are suitable for it.

The floor can be laid with or without displacement, judging by the photos of houses made of profiled timber. First you must lay the first layer and lay the wood flooring on top of it. Remember about the waterproofing that is placed on the sub-base of the future floor. For these purposes, you can use penofol or dense polyethylene. At the last stage, you should lay the floor from any material. A tongue-and-groove board 28 or 36 millimeters thick is perfect for this.

Construction of walls from profiled timber

To build the walls of a timber house, it is necessary to lay out alternating rows of timber. Each subsequent row is fastened together using dowels (pins for vertical connection), which does not allow the timber to move or twist. Pins can be made of metal or wood. It is advisable to use the same wood from which the house is built. It is known that metal dowels are more reliable, but they are more expensive than wooden dowels, and the cost of a house made of profiled timber will increase in this case.

How are dowels installed? This happens using the bricklaying method, through two or three rows after one. To do this, you need to drill holes with a diameter of 3–4 centimeters. The dowels will be easily inserted into these holes. The distance between the dowels should be one and a half meters. Between the rows of timber, do not forget to lay a sealant for insulation. Where external walls are connected, it is advisable to use the “warm corner” method.

In one beam, you should cut out a protrusion of the required size, and in the other, you should cut out a groove with similar parameters. Some layers of timber can be alternated with grooves and tenons. This will greatly strengthen the structure, and the corners will not be blown out. If you are building a house with one and a half floors, the walls of the second floor need to be raised by approximately 1200-1500 millimeters, this depends on the steepness. Partitions must fit into the main walls of the floor. For them, you can use timber with a section of 100 by 150 millimeters. The installation of partitions is done only after the construction of the log house.

If the dimensions of the house are larger than 6 by 6 meters, there should be at least one partition on the first floor, which will provide additional support for the floor on the second floor. If you want to reduce the price of a house made of profiled timber, the internal walls can be framed. To do this, you need to create a frame from bars with a section of 50 by 50, cover it with clapboard or other material. In order for a wooden house to be fire-resistant, all its parts must be treated with a fire retardant. You can apply it to the walls using a spray bottle or a paint brush.

And the last point that is worth understanding when building walls: pay due attention to the creation of window openings. In the places where windows are installed, it is necessary to cut out technological openings through which air will move while the material dries. When the house is finally settled, the windows can be installed. Window blocks for buildings made of profiled timber can be metal-plastic or wooden.

Insulation and finishing of the house

If the thermal insulation of a wooden house is of high quality, you can reduce your heating costs. Wall insulation will significantly reduce your heating costs, regardless of fuel. The exterior decoration of the house significantly increases thermal insulation by reducing the moisture content of the timber. It isolates it from various atmospheric precipitations. The most popular types of finishing are lining and siding, but it is better not to use siding for a wooden house.

You can use mineral wool, glass wool slabs, tow or flax-jute fabric. Glass wool slabs must be laid with foil vapor barrier material. This approach will help reflect heat into the room, and the vapor insulation will reduce moisture evaporation, which is known to steal heat.

It is worth noting that for insulation, according to the technology of houses made of profiled timber, it is better not to use polystyrene foam, since it will not allow the moisture of the wood to evaporate completely and will cause rotting of the wood. For the same reasons, you should not insulate walls with roofing felt, plastic film or glassine. It is better to use a vapor-permeable membrane material.

It is also advisable to trim the inside with profiled timber, as this will give you additional thermal insulation. Interior finishing can be made of lining, hardboard or plasterboard. Remember that the insulation should resemble a layer cake. Each layer must protect against heat loss and prevent the penetration of cold and moisture. If you plan to spend time in the house only in the summer, you don’t have to insulate it.

Roof for a house made of profiled timber

To cover the roof, you can use ondulin, corrugated sheets, roofing felt, and metal tiles. Remember that insulation should begin from the top or attic floor, and then move on to the roof itself. In accordance with the structure of the future roof, it is necessary to install ceiling beams, rafters and sheathing. When the walls are built, ceiling joists should be placed that should protrude 50 centimeters beyond the base of the wall. The logs are made of timber with a section of 150 by 100 millimeters. They must be laid out on edge at a distance of approximately 90 centimeters from each other.

After this, you should assemble a rafter system from boards with a section of 50 by 150 millimeters. This structure is the skeleton of the roof, so it needs to be strongly strengthened with racks, crossbars and braces. Rafters should be installed in increments of no more than one centimeter. When the frame is ready, you can begin laying out the fronts, which can be made from siding or timber with a section of 150 by 150 millimeters. At the last stage, a sheathing with a cross-section of 25 by 150 millimeters should be nailed onto the rafters.

It is worth noting that the sheathing pitch should not be more than 400 millimeters. To prevent the accumulation of condensation, it is necessary to make a vapor barrier using a layer of waterproofing. If you used slate as a roof covering, and the attic is ventilated, you can avoid waterproofing during the construction of a house made of profiled timber.

Good day, dear needlewomen and needlewomen! Currently, the reuse of seemingly completely unnecessary objects and materials in everyday life is becoming increasingly popular. This article provides handmade lovers with a master class on creating a miniature coffee table from an ordinary newspaper. This item will be a charming addition to any interior.

First you need to cut the newspaper. This is done as follows: the newspaper sheet is positioned vertically and folded in half.

Then it is cut along the line.

Each resulting strip is folded again lengthwise and cut.

Tubes will spin from these quarters. To create a table of this type, it took about 500 newspaper sticks. In order to make the tubes evenly and accurately, you need a knitting needle (in this lesson, a knitting needle with a diameter of 2.55 mm was used), glue and patience. It should be noted that the glue can be any: PVA (if you are using construction glue, it is advisable to dilute it with water), glue stick or even silicate.

After this, the tubes begin to twist. The strip of newspaper is placed vertically, and the knitting needle is placed in the upper left corner at an angle.

We begin to roll the paper. At the end, the tip of the leaf is smeared with glue and glued to the tube.

For beginning “newspaper weavers,” the following advice may be useful: when you start winding the newspaper onto a knitting needle, coat the top of the sheet with glue. Then the paper will not unwind and will allow you to get better at creating tubes. In this way, it is necessary to make about 500 sticks (depending on the length of the newspaper sheet and the density of the twist).

After this, the tubes must be painted, although this is not necessary: ​​you can paint them after finishing the work, but pre-painted tubes give the product a more presentable appearance. In this master class, an acrylic primer and brown color were used to give the sticks a brown color.

Some artists use acrylic paint. From experience using the latter: it is too thick even after diluting with water, it does not always stain completely and sticks the tubes together. The primer is “born” for contact with water (from 1 liter of acrylic primer you can get 2 liters of solution for painting tubes), it applies well, and dries quickly.

Tubes are laid out on a sheet of whatman paper or paper (even better if a plastic or glass tray is used instead of thick paper). Then, with a wide brush, first one side is painted, then the other. After this, the tubes must be “rolled” over the surface and painted over the unpainted areas.

The sticks that have already received a new color are laid out on a grid or tray as follows: the first layer vertically, the second horizontally, the third vertically again, etc.

While the tubes are drying, you need to prepare the base for the future table. To do this, a circle is cut out of corrugated cardboard, the diameter of which is equal to the diameter of the container (in this case, a bucket).

Stepping back on the sides 1-3 cm to the right and left, another circle is drawn, although this is not necessary.

The bucket is used at the beginning of the weaving to create the leg. Along the perimeter of the cardboard circle (on the inner circumference), at equal distances, points are marked where the racks will be placed in the future.

The holes were made at the points using a “plus” screwdriver.

The racks are placed as follows:

When the stands are installed, a container is placed inside them and the entire structure is secured with a standard elastic band, which can be replaced with thread or tape.

Straight rope weaving was used to create the table. To do this, a newspaper tube is folded in half, then one end passes behind the counter, and the other remains outside:

After this, the piece that was on the outside is pushed inside behind the next post, and the one that was on the outside goes forward. That is, the ends of the tube cross and then “hug” the stand. They cross again and “hug” again:

In order to lengthen or grow a tube, PVA glue is dripped into one end, and the tip of a new tube is inserted into it:

This makes 6 next to each other. Then the large bucket is replaced by a smaller bucket. And this difference in the diameter of the bottoms of the containers will be a smooth transition from the table leg to its “body”:

Then weaving with a rope continues along the diameter of the bucket to the required height:

After this, the table is turned over, and the stands straighten out like rays of sunshine around the base:

Weaving with a rope continues along the surface of the floor. This will be the tabletop.

After several rows, the distance between the racks increases and, in order to maintain the appearance of the product, one more tube is added between them:

After the tabletop of the required size is woven, the table is turned over again, and the racks are lowered down, after which several more rows are woven. This is done to ensure that the tabletop is strong. An important factor is also the aesthetic component: this way the table looks more beautiful. Weaving again according to the “straight rope” principle:

The ends of the racks are hidden as follows: on the inside of the lid, directly behind the rack, several rows of rope are deflected with a knitting needle and the adjacent rack is pushed into the hole formed. And so in a circle:

The main part of the table is ready. Now you need to make the lid. To do this, measure the diameter of the inner circumference of the table:

Draw a similar circle on cardboard. This circle will cover the hole of the product:

A smaller circle is drawn inside it. A part of the lid is woven around this circle, which is inserted into the table so that it “sits” well:

An equal distance for the racks is laid out along this circle:

Using the same method as in the beginning, several rows are braided:

The racks are hidden according to a well-known principle:

The inside of the lid is ready:

In order to create its outer part, an equal distance is laid along the circumference of the lid:

The last step is done using a slightly different method: one stand, or rather only a small part of it, is inserted into each hole:

During the process of weaving with a rope, this piece will hide and a long tip will remain:

When the braided part of the lid completely matches the diameter of the tabletop, the racks are hidden and cut off:

A pre-cut circle of wallpaper is glued to the top of the lid. For decoration, you can also use decoupage or any other method:

In order to close the holes on the table leg, it is necessary and desirable to glue another cardboard or wooden analogue:

At the end, the table and lid are varnished:

The product is ready. Such an item can be very useful for a needlewoman: storing threads, materials or various devices in the “belly” of the table is very convenient. In this master class, the table found its place next to a pair of wicker chairs.

Thank you for your attention!

Tea table made from newspaper tubes

further words of the author

So the leg trudged

To make the leg higher, I inserted a five-liter bottle and weaved approximately to the mark.

4.


I turned the bucket over, we weave to the top5.

She took out the bucket, bent the posts and trimmed them so that they wouldn’t get tangled when weaving. I weave in a circle, making a side like this.

6.

The bottom of the legs is the same, I wove a side, tucked in the tubes, this side gives a kind of stability to the “structure”.

7.

Let's move on to the glass. My glass was rectangular in shape (glass from the door of an old wall), my husband cut out a square and cut off the corners; round glass cannot be cut at home without a special machine. I glued a napkin (reverse decoupage).

8.

We begin to weave a tabletop. I inserted tubes into a cardboard circle, “saddled” it in the literal sense of the word, and went to weave in a circle.

9.

Trying on - weave so that the edge of the circle extends slightly beyond the corners of the glass.

10.

The circle is ready, take out the cardboard and fill the tubes.

11.

We apply glass to the woven circle. This is the back side of the glass, I also glued a napkin to it to cover the white paint, since the lid is removable, even if it’s beautiful on this side. So, we apply and bend the racks and begin to weave in a circle. While weaving, I pull up the posts and press them against the glass.

12.

I wove it to the diameter I needed, raised the racks and wove the side, it will prevent the tabletop from “sliding” on the leg.

13.

Before lifting the stands, let's try the legs to the hole so that we don't have to undo them later.

14.

There is a shelf inside the table. This is a plate from a former microwave oven; you can simply weave a circle or cut it out of cardboard and cover it, and insert it inside.

15.

Our table is ready.

16.


17.


18.



19.

Back in the summer I wove a table for the dacha. For the base I used waste material: a plastic cable reel, cellular polycarbonate, old newspapers. Very good dimensions, as the height matches the armrest of the chair. Below you can watch the video master class, but I describe it in more detail using photographs.

Materials: plastic cable spool, newspapers and newspaper tubes, cellular polycarbonate No. 10, fabric for covering the tabletop, Mocha-colored water stain, PVA glue, acrylic varnish, aluminum wire.

Tools: Scissors, awl, pliers, paint brush and art brush.

Below in the photo is a list of works. The most important thing is preparation. You need to wind tubes from newspaper strips. About 950 of them were used. You need to dye it immediately before weaving in small bunches, when the coil and tabletop are prepared.

The table is based on a coil and a table top made of cellular polycarbonate. Cellular polycarbonate is also a waste material. Its trimmings were left over from the installation of a garden greenhouse. We braid the edges of the tabletop with newspaper tubes, then connect them to the spool and then weave along the contour. We coat the wicker part of the finished table with PVA glue, dry it for a day, and then cover it with acrylic varnish. Acrylic varnish dries quickly - 2-3 hours at room temperature +25 degrees C.

Cut a circle with a radius of 35 cm from a piece of cellular polycarbonate. Polycarbonate is porous, so it can be easily cut with scissors or a kitchen knife. This circle will be the tabletop, which we will place on the reel. This is necessary in order to expand the upper working plane of the table.

Preparing the tabletop. 1.- measure 5-6 cm from the edge of the polycarbonate circle and make holes around the circle with an awl or drill.
2 - paint newspaper strips with water stain and dry.
3 - Cover the edge of the polycarbonate circle with newspaper strips (up to the holes.) Dry, cover
acrylic varnish

Cut a circle with a diameter of 90 cm from the fabric and cover the plane of the coil. We will then place the finished tabletop on this part. The fabric pattern will be visible through the transparent polycarbonate. I took the fabric from an old summer sundress.

Learn more about coloring newspaper tubes. I paint the tubes gradually, one hundred at a time. I paint in an old enamel pan from a gas stove. I put the tubes in a baking tray and pour stain on top and gently roll the tubes back and forth. Then I take them out of the stain and put them immediately in a plastic bag so that they don’t dry out and are elastic. When weaving, I take 2 tubes out of the bag.

We stick tubes into the polycarbonate tabletop. Then we bend them to the edges of the circle. Press down so that they lie flat. These are the posts around which we will weave.

We weave in a circle, starting from the holes. The first row is a bundle of 4 working tubes. Then 5 rows with a rope. And we weave the edge one row with a rope in one direction, the next row in the other direction. The illusion of a “pigtail” is created. We build up the racks and bend them as shown in the photo.

We turn the tabletop over, weave 5cm and place the spool in the middle. Look at the photo.