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The history of the appearance of French perfumes dates back to the 11th century. Then the crusaders brought jasmine and roses from Jerusalem to the south of France. And only in the 12th century, with the development of trade relations, perfumery fully came to Europe. Kings and courtiers discover the hygienic and seductive properties of perfume. Very quickly, Venice became the capital of perfumery, a center for the processing of spices from the East, which then came to France.

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By the 15th century, Grasse and Paris had become world-famous perfume centers. At this time, the etiquette of the French royal court ordered all courtiers to use cosmetics, aromatic oils and perfumes. In the 16th century, two professions merged - glover and perfumer, as perfumed gloves came into fashion. Later, the consumption of fragrances doubled to mask unpleasant odors.

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In the 16th century, the Italian Maurizio Frangipani came up with the idea of ​​dissolving aromatic substances in pure wine alcohol. This moment can be considered the birth of perfumery, because... It became possible to create an infinite number of combinations. People have learned to store the aromas of fresh flowers, herbs, trees, resins and essences of animal origin in crystal bottles.

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The first revolution in the history of perfumery occurred when, after the Great French Revolution, the guild of glovers and perfumers split into two independent groups. In 1608, in Florence, in the monastery of Santa Maria Novella, the first perfume factory in the world appeared. The Dominican monks themselves become the manufacturers. Dukes and princes, the Pope himself, patronized them and made rich contributions to the monastery

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In 1709, in Cologne, the Frenchman Jean-Marie Farina, a spice trader, first put on sale fragrant water, named “Cologne water” in honor of the city. In 1709, he settled in Cologne and opened a perfume shop, where fragrant water first appeared. When he died in 1766, his sons opened an entire perfume factory. They prepared their water using the highest quality grape alcohol, which they imported from Italy. .

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However, water from Cologne (eau de Cologne) would have remained unknown to the world if Napoleon had not been seduced by this water and ordered it to be delivered from Germany. It was brought to France in the second half of the 18th century and since then began to spread under the French name eau de colon. It was Napoleon who created the first perfume and cosmetics company in 1804. The emperor was very sensitive to odors, he rinsed himself with cologne every day from head to toe and, wherever he was, he ordered pills with his favorite blackcurrant scent to be burned. In exile on the island of St. Helena, when the cologne ran out, the emperor came up with his own recipe for a scent with the addition of bergamot and called it eau de toilette. Since then, this term has become official.

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In 1828, Pierre François Pascal Guerlain opened his first perfume shop on the Rue de Rivoli in Paris. The Guerlain dynasty (five generations of perfumers) creates famous fragrances, including Jicky (1889), Mitsouko (1919), Shalimar (1925), then in the 19th century Jean Guerlain, François Coty and Ernest Daltroff (Caron) - the "fathers" of modern perfumery - put forward several fundamental theories in the science of creating odors. In the middle of the last century, perfume production ceased to be artisanal. Large perfume companies began to be created

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The next turning point in the history of perfumery occurred in the first decade of the 20th century, when couturiers decided to combine modeling and perfumery. In 1911, Paul Poiret was the first to come up with the idea of ​​adding fragrances to clothing lines. The commercial logic of the idea was brought to completion by the great Gabrielle Chanel, who in 1921 released “synthetic” aldehyde perfumes with her own trademark Chanel No. 5. "

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The 30s were the heyday of “masculine” scents: fresh, sporty, with notes of leather and tobacco. A protest against the war was the perfume created by Marcel Rocha in 1944 in liberated France. He called them Femme.

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Three years later, Christian Dior, having created a feminine new look collection with flowing fabrics and flowing skirts, complements it with the Miss Dior fragrance. Later followed "Diorissima", "Diorella", "Diorissant" (1956, 1972, 1979). Three more discoveries took place in the 40s: Bandit Piguet appeared - a perfume with the scent of leather and fur, Vent vert with the smell of grass and leaves, which gave birth to a new direction of “green” perfumes, and the floral scent L "air du temps by Nina Ricci.

“Miss Russia” - In Khabarovsk, the competition was held by the “Far Eastern Fashion Theater” at the Platinum Arena SZK. The national competition "Miss Russia" is the most famous and prestigious competition in Russia. Facts about the competition. 2006 Miss Russia 2006 Tatyana Kotova. History of the Miss Russia competition. Today, the national competition “Miss Russia” has acquired a global scale.

“Perfume” - Perfume was also used directly in embalming. How and where to apply perfume correctly. Table of contents. Creative project on technology. What's the best way to store perfume? Arab culture is the first culture to use the distillation process. Floral Floral perfume scents are good for any time.

"Miss Atom" - Synergetic effect. PR effect. Regional aspect. Our achievements. About the project. Every year the number of participants grows. Benefits of participation. Since 2010, girls from far abroad have been allowed to participate in it. About the Miss Atom competition. "Miss Atom" is a unique integration project. To our partners.

“The beauty of man” - Everything in a person should be beautiful: face, clothes, soul, and thoughts. The face is the mirror of the soul. Create your ideal modern young man. The Egyptians used the length of the middle finger as a standard. Artist Yu.M. Masyutin. Scoliosis can be detected during fluorography. The human body is 19 times longer than the middle finger.

“Face Shape and Bangs” - Bangs for an oval face. Trends of 2011. The main thing we want to do is to balance and harmonize the image. Completed by: Student 401 gr. Pointed facial features can be successfully softened with bangs. One condition is that such bangs should not be too thick and sleek. Bangs for a square face.

"Cosmetics" - Cosmetics and beauty. When choosing cosmetics, pay attention to packaging marks. COSMETICS – (from the Greek. Cosmetics and nature. Preventive. The study of means and methods of improving a person’s appearance. Up to 2.5 kg of cosmetics enter the female body per year. Remember: Types of cosmetic products. Types of cosmetics.

There are 18 presentations in total

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“Perfume is the music of the body” We apply perfume to the surface of the skin exactly where our body and the world around us come into contact. From here the smell spreads in two directions: outward and inward, that is, into the world and within ourselves.

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What is the difference between perfume and eau de toilette? The composition of all perfumes is the same. This is alcohol, water and perfume composition (concentrate, mixture of fragrant substances). The whole difference lies in the proportions of the mixture. Perfumes of the highest category - Perfume (Parfum or Extrait): 20-30% perfume composition and 90% alcohol. The composition of the perfume includes the most expensive natural ingredients. Eau de Parfum (Day Perfume, Eau De Parfum, Parfum De Toilette or, in Christian Dior terminology - Esprit De Parfum - "Spirit of Perfume") - 15-20% of the perfume composition in 90% alcohol. Eau de toilette (Eau De Toilette) - 6-12% concentrate diluted in 85% alcohol. Cologne (Eau De Cologne) - 3-5% aromatic substances in 70-80% alcohol. You should know that in American perfumery the designation Cologne usually corresponds to French Eau de Parfum or Eau de Toilette. Refreshing Water (Sports Water, L'eau Fraiche, Eau De Sport) - 1-3% perfume composition and 70-80% alcohol. How Typically, perfume of this type has a citrus aroma.

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How quickly does the nose get tired when tasting new aromas? Fast enough. If the perfumes belong to different types, you can compare 5-6 scents, if the perfumes are similar enough, then 2-4. It is better to start with light odors and end with heavier ones - they tire the nose faster. When trying a new scent, it takes some time to let it develop. To “cleanse” your sense of smell before the next tasting, just inhale and exhale deeply through your nose several times.

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Is there a connection between a person's character and smells? Psychologists have been studying the connection between human character and odors, and from their research it follows that fresh, floral tones, characterized by a direct impact, meet the tastes of extroverted, bold characters, while oriental, mysteriously sophisticated shades are suitable for less expansive women who prefer the intimate atmosphere of a one-on-one conversation. -a-tet. The taste of powder, which seems to envelop the body in a protective cover, is most often chosen by emotional women prone to narcissism, always somewhat childish and loving to look in the mirror. Fruity and floral notes are best suited for active, optimistic characters, while a strong chypre spirit attracts ambitious men who are used to insisting on their own; The balsamic scent is usually chosen by more secretive people who like to follow unknown paths.

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How to properly store perfume? What is the shelf life of perfume? On average, the shelf life of perfumes is 3 years, in a closed bottle, and from 6 to 18 months from the date of use. However, if stored incorrectly, perfume can deteriorate within 1 week! How to avoid this? First of all, remember that perfume has 3 worst enemies - light, heat and humidity. All of them lead to a rapid violation of the perfume formula and, ultimately, to its damage. To avoid this, you should store perfumes in their original packaging, as far as possible from any sources of light and heat! Never store perfume in the bathroom! The best place is some dresser drawer in the least visited room of your home.

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How to apply perfume correctly? Perfume should be applied directly to dry, clean skin (behind the ears, in the hollow of the neck, under the chest, in the bends of the elbows, on the wrists, under the knees). As Coco Chanel said, “Apply perfume where you are waiting for a kiss.” You can sometimes perfume your hair if you are not afraid of drying it out. You should only scent your clothes if you are allergic to any components - the effect will not be the same (after all, the aroma is fully revealed only upon contact with the skin), and stains may appear on the clothes. If you are going to spend time in the bright sun, use a non-alcoholic version of your perfume to avoid burns.

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What is the difference between men's perfumes and women's perfumes? Men's fragrances avoid floral and fruity (berry) notes and, on the contrary, emphasize woody and herbaceous tones. Men's perfumes are usually represented by eau de toilette and cologne, but eau de toilette for men is usually much more concentrated than a similar product for women, more like eau de parfum (eau de toilette). The lack of concentration of “perfume” is connected not so much with the opinion that it is not appropriate for men to put on too much perfume or that it is indecent to have a very beautiful box or bottle, but rather with considerations of convenience: for men the essence is much more important than the design, but for women, the appearance of the product is barely is not as important as the aroma itself. Therefore, scents for men appear, as a rule, in large spray bottles, so that a man does not have to go shopping too often - buy a new bottle (which many of them do not like).

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Can children use perfume? If your child is not prone to allergies, you can start using perfumes from the age of 3, preferably non-alcoholic, so as not to dry out his skin. Nowadays the children's perfume market is expanding, there are many lovely scents that will highlight the charm of your baby or toddler. In addition, perfumes for little ones are also quite good for adults who love fresh, unobtrusive scents. It must be said that you don’t have to limit yourself to children’s perfumes – light citrus, floral-fruity or simply floral scents are also suitable for little ones, if they have an unobtrusive, delicate scent.

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What are the types of odors and what types of odors are there? In 1990, the French Perfume Society, led by the chief perfumer of the house of Jean Patou, Jean Kerleo, finally approved 7 main perfume types, which in turn form very branched “families” of fragrances. Perfume type refers to the overall structure and impression produced by a fragrance through the use of certain notes. It must be said right away that these 7 most basic types are constantly replenished with more and more new branches, there are even disagreements as to whether 7 types should still be distinguished or more, but any person interested in perfumery still needs to know the most basic ones. These are: 1) citrus; 2) floral; 3) woody; 4) amber; 5) leather; 6) chypre; 7) ferns.

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Why can't you use several perfumes at the same time? Each perfume represents a harmoniously composed whole. If you use several different perfumes at the same time, this disrupts the overall harmony, and the character of individual perfumes is no longer evident. Moreover, mixing odors can lead to an unpleasant overall impression. Therefore, pay special attention to whether your deodorant and your perfume work together. Some Rochalure fragrances are also available as deodorants with the same scent.

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Presentation on the topic: “Chemistry in perfumery” History of perfumery

• Many centuries ago, the Arabs already knew various ways to obtain aromatic substances from plants and animal secretions. In the perfume shops of oriental bazaars, numerous merchants offered a rich selection of exquisite aromatic substances. They even provided each of their regular customers with a mixture of aromatic substances prepared especially for them, taking into account their individual characteristics. In medieval Europe, perfume was not used. After ancient times, they reappeared only in the Renaissance. But already at the court of Louis XIV, ladies spent them in abundance to drown out the unpleasant odor emanating from the body. It was not customary to wash. If previously it was necessary to cultivate roses in vast fields, collect their flowers and process them in order to obtain just a few kilograms of rose oil, today chemical plants produce wonderful aromatic substances much cheaper, in much larger quantities and, moreover, often with completely new shades of odors. Like aromatic substances, detergents also became available to everyone only thanks to chemistry.

Essential oils:

• acyclic monoterpenes
• monocyclic monoterpenes
• bicyclic monoterpenes
• sesquiterpenes
• aromatic compounds

Chemically, terpenes are unsaturated compounds with a number of carbon atoms that is a multiple of five. Terpenes (monoterpenes), sesquiterpenes, diterpenes and triterpenes are composed of two, three, four and six isoprene units, respectively. Essential oils usually contain only monoterpenes and sesquiterpenes, diterpenes are found in resins, and triterpenes form a large class of plant sterols and are involved in the construction of glycosides. All these compounds can exist in the form of terpenoids, that is, oxygen derivatives: alcohols, aldehydes, ketones, phenols, acids, esters, lactones, oxides, quinones. They have many optical and geometric isomers. Terpenoids usually do not include tetraterpenoids (carotenoids, xanthophylls) and polyterpenes (rubber, gutta-percha).

• Chemically, terpenes are unsaturated compounds with a number of carbon atoms that is a multiple of five. Terpenes (monoterpenes), sesquiterpenes, diterpenes and triterpenes are composed of two, three, four and six isoprene units, respectively. Essential oils usually contain only monoterpenes and sesquiterpenes, diterpenes are found in resins, and triterpenes form a large class of plant sterols and are involved in the construction of glycosides. All these compounds can exist in the form of terpenoids, that is, oxygen derivatives: alcohols, aldehydes, ketones, phenols, acids, esters, lactones, oxides, quinones. They have many optical and geometric isomers. Terpenoids usually do not include tetraterpenoids (carotenoids, xanthophylls) and polyterpenes (rubber, gutta-percha).
• About 3,000 plant species produce essential oils, but only 150 to 200 are extracted. Essential oils add fragrance to flowers, but roots, leaves, and fruits typically contain many more. Some plants have special organs or tissues that produce these compounds, while others have essential oils emulsified or dissolved in the cytoplasm of the cells. And in St. John's wort leaves, citrus peels, and cassia wood, glandular formations (receptacles) can be seen with the naked eye: they look like translucent or dark dots. Another type of container - tubules and passages - are found in the fruits of umbrellas, the bark and wood of a number of plants. They are especially noticeable in coniferous wood; they are called resin ducts. Oil can accumulate in the form of glandular spots - small droplets of essential oils just under the cuticle of the epidermis. Most often, essential oils accumulate in glands that are located on the surface of the plant (in the epidermal tissue); glands are outgrowths of the epidermis specialized for the secretion and accumulation of essential oils.
• Plants contain different amounts of essential oils. In violet flowers there is 0.004%, in cloves, that is, in the buds of the clove tree, which we use as a spice, - 23%.

How were essential oils obtained?

• replanting flowers with fatty seeds: in Europe - almonds, in India - sesame. The seeds were saturated with essential oil, and from them aromatic oil for cosmetics was obtained by ordinary pressing.
• enfleurage, extraction of oils from fresh plants with solid fat
• mechanical pressing, with which only citrus fruits are processed. The peel of the fruit is scraped off and pressed, the aqueous part of the juice is separated in separating funnels from the top layer of pure oil, which is poured into containers.
• Maceration is the infusion of plants with liquid oils, often by heating or in the sun.
• steam distillation
• direct extraction from raw materials. It is carried out with highly volatile solvents in Sosklet-type devices or in counter-current column devices. After distilling off the solvent, lipstick is usually obtained, since heavier substances - waxes, resins - also pass into the solution. In this case, the essential oil is most often purified with alcohol, and the waste, consisting of waxes and fats, is used to prepare the basis for ointments and creams.

Monoterpenes without cycles

• Monoterpenes without cycles
• The most well-known sources of these substances are rose, coriander, lavender and lemon. Acyclic terpenes can be considered as unsaturated fatty compounds with three double bonds. The best known of these are myrcene, common in the oils of umbrella plants, the alcohol geraniol (I), which gives the scent of rose and geranium, its isomer nerol with a completely different smell, and the aldehyde citral (II) with a pleasant citrus smell.
• Rose oil has a strong bactericidal effect and promotes wound healing. Due to the high content of essential oil in the petals, rose jam is an excellent remedy for sore throat. Rose oil soothes, reduces allergic reactions, improves mood.
• Single-cycle terpenes
• Monocyclic terpenes are found in plants known medicinally as disinfectants and sedatives. These are cyclic compounds with two double bonds, mainly derivatives of methylisopropylcyclohexane, and both double bonds can be located in the ring, or one of them in the ring and the other in the isopropyl group. Their oxygen derivatives are much more common.
• Menthol (IV) - the most famous of the monocyclic terpene alcohols - accumulates in large quantities in mint oil, from which it gets its name (mint in Latin - menta). The most mentholic of the many types of mint is peppermint. When cooled in the refrigerator, menthol precipitates from its oil in the form of long transparent crystals.
• Cineole (V) determines the smell of another medicinal plant - sage.

Terpenes with two cycles

• Terpenes with two cycles
• Bicyclic terpenes are compounds with two non-aromatic rings and one double bond. Their general formula is C10 H36. There are many oxygen derivatives in this group. In medicine they are even more important than compounds of the aliphatic series. Typical alcohols are sabinol, thujol (VI), borneol (VII), and ketones are camphor (VIII), fenchone, thujone (IX). Almost all of these compounds are highly toxic.
• The richest source of substances in this group is juniper. One of them got its name from the sabina juniper. The main components of its oil are pinene, camphene, sabinene and their oxygen derivatives - borneol and isoborneol. There is a lot of essential oil not only in fruits, but also in pine needles, and even in wood. It has a pleasant smell and a strong bactericidal effect.
• Sesquiterpenes
• Sesquiterpenes are also called sesquiterpenes, because they contain 15 carbon atoms - one and a half times more than just terpenes. These substances are found, for example, in linden. The subtle scent of its flowers is due to the aliphatic sesquiterpene alcohol farnesol (X). Linden is an old and effective diaphoretic, and its flowers are used to flavor champagne.
• Plants containing cyclic sesquiterpenes usually have a very complex essential oil composition in which it is difficult to isolate the main substance. Usually it is a mixture of substances of very different structures, and it is impossible to characterize the plant by the main substance. Cyclic sesquiterpenes can have from one to three rings. The most common monocyclic terpenes are of the bisabolene type; Terpenes of this type are formed by a closed hydroaromatic ring with a long aliphatic chain and two double bonds, one in the ring and the other in the chain.

Aromatic compounds

• Aromatic compounds
• The aromatic compounds in essential oils give them a particularly strong and pleasant smell. Aromatic hydrocarbons are relatively rare, but the variety of their oxygen derivatives is amazing. Most of the plants containing these substances are used not only in medicine, but also in cooking, as spices. Aromatic sesquiterpenes give the scent to dill, fennel, star anise, anise, spicy and common cloves, vanilla, thyme and thyme, and oregano.
• Anethole (XII), isolated for the first time from dill seeds, has extremely interesting properties. In addition to its antispasmodic and carminative effects, anethole helps with coughing. It is released from the body through the lungs and even through the skin, along the way causing increased mucus secretion and the death of bacteria.

Violet smell – alfairon

• Violet smell – alfairon
• Amber musk
• camphor smell

The position of substituents in the molecule has a great influence on the smell. b-Naphthol esters with a pleasant and strong odor are widely used in perfumery, while a-naphthol esters have no odor at all:

• The position of substituents in the molecule has a great influence on the smell. b-Naphthol esters with a pleasant and strong odor are widely used in perfumery, while a-naphthol esters have no odor at all:
• The same effect can be observed in polysubstituted benzenes (vanillin):
• Affects the smell and position of the double bond in the molecule. In isoeugenone
• the smell is more pleasant than eugenone itself

Types of Perfumed Scent

• 1. Citrus fruits. Citrus fruits contain essential oils obtained by squeezing the zest of fruits such as lemon, bergamot, orange, grapefruit, etc. This family contains the first colognes used by men and women. 2. Floral. This family, most importantly, groups perfumes whose main theme is a flower: rose, jasmine, violet, lilac, lily of the valley, narcissus, tuberose. 3. Woody. This family includes perfumes with warm undertones such as sandalwood and patchouli, sometimes dry like cedar and vetiver. In masculine compositions, along with woody notes, there are lavender and citrus notes. 4. Amber. Under the name “amber perfume,” which is also called “oriental perfume,” compositions with soft, powdery, vanilla, incense-labdanum and pronounced animal notes are grouped. The subfamily with a soft amber scent is the most representative in this category. 5. Chypres. The name of this family comes from the perfume that François Coty named so when it was released in 1917. The success of this chypre was such that it became the head of a large family that includes perfumes based mainly on accords of oakmoss, cistus-labdanum, patchouli, bergamot. 6. Ferns. This name has nothing to do with the smell of ferns, but contains an accord of lavender, woody, oak moss, coumarin, bergamot, etc. notes.

• By fragrant we usually mean pleasant-smelling organic substances. It is unlikely that anyone will say this about chlorine or mercaptan, although they have their own smell. When substances that smell in general are meant, they are called odorous. From a chemical point of view, there is no difference. But if science studies odorous substances in general, then industry (and primarily the perfume industry) is mainly interested in fragrant substances. True, it is difficult to draw a clear line here.

Content:

• Title page
• History of perfumery
• Essential oils
• Types of essential oils
• How were essential oils obtained?
• Monoterpenes and single-ring terpenes
• Terpenes with two rings, sesquiterpenes
• Aromatic compounds
• Chemical formulas of odors
• Chem. Scent formulas
• Types of Perfumed Scent
• 12, 13, 14. Perfume products

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Perfumery

a set of products used to pleasantly flavor something. Typically, perfumes are liquid solutions of odorous substances. Solvents can be alcohol, a mixture of alcohol and water, dipropylene glycol and other substances. Aromatic substances can be either natural or artificial.

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The most popular types of perfumes:

perfume, eau de toilette, cologne, deodorant, etc.

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Perfume

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Perfume-

perfumery, perfume (flavoring) agent, alcohol or alcohol-water solutions of mixtures of fragrant substances - perfume compositions and infusions.

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Of all perfumes, perfumes have the highest concentration of essential oils (from 15 to 30% or more), dissolved in almost pure alcohol (96%). Therefore, the durability of the scent of perfume is much higher than that of other perfumes (5 hours or more; on cotton fabric it should be at least 30 hours).

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Composition of perfume compositions

More than three hundred natural and synthetic aromatic substances obtained from plant, animal and chemical raw materials are used to prepare perfume compositions. On average, the composition includes from 15 to 60 or more different fragrant substances. Usually the composition makes up 10-25% of the mass of the perfume, in some perfumes - up to 50%.

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Fragrances

The raw materials for fragrant substances of plant origin are flower petals, fruits, leaves, and roots of essential plants. From them, essential oils or “flower lipstick” are obtained by steam distillation and extraction. Rose, coriander, sandalwood oils are independent aromatic substances. Patchouli leaves, coriander seeds, oak moss are used in the form of infusions. Substances of plant origin make up the main aromatic mass of perfumes. Fragrant substances of animal origin are used only in the form of infusions to fix the aroma. These include amber, musk, castoreum and civet. Raw materials of animal origin are more expensive than other components, and it is this that determines the level of quality of a perfume. Synthetic aromatic substances are produced chemically from substances of plant origin. As raw materials for their production, for example, coriander, sassafras, and anise oil are used. This allows you to obtain aromas that have no analogues in nature.

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Solvent

Ethyl alcohol of very high concentration (up to 96%) is used as a universal solvent.

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Dyes

Dyes are used in the manufacture of perfumes. They are added to give the perfume liquid the required color, which, however, does not affect its aromatic properties. Dyes are added in the form of aqueous solutions.

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Production

There are two main types of perfume production: distillation (the process of steam distillation) and enfleurage (a process based on the absorbent properties of fats). During distillation, essential oils evaporate at a certain temperature and condense into a container along with water, but due to their low density they end up on the surface. After which the oils are simply collected. Enfleurage is based on the sublimation of solids. Purified fat (mostly from pigs) is used to trap vapors. The fat absorbs oil vapors, and then, using the same distillation, they are separated. This process is good because you can extract essential oils without subjecting the plants or objects from which the scent is obtained to heat treatment. Crystalline aromatic substances are pre-dissolved in alcohol or one of the liquid, non-volatile components. Depending on the type of raw material, the process of extracting fragrant substances lasts from several hours to 1 year. For a more complete extraction of fragrant substances, the raw materials are treated with alcohol 2-3 times.

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Perfume production in Ancient Egypt, fragment from a tomb of the 4th century BC.

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Aroma

Perfumes are divided into two groups according to the nature of the smell: Floral perfumes imitate the smell of one or more flowers. Perfume created by the imagination of perfumers. Perfume is divided into two groups according to the strength of the smell: Perfume with a light, delicate scent. Perfume with a strong smell.

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Storage

Perfume should be stored in a cool, dark place, avoid direct sunlight and close the lid tightly. If stored improperly, some components tend to evaporate and deteriorate faster than others, which is why the smell changes over time. The average recommended shelf life of perfumes is 2-3 years. Signs of spoilage include discoloration or sediment.

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History of perfumes

The history of the development of perfumes goes back centuries. Since time immemorial, aromatic herbs and flowers have been constant companions of man. The ancient Egyptians used them as part of religious rituals. Mostly fragrant herbs were used in balms, various creams and incense. Aromatic oils have been used in cosmetics or medicines.

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Over time, perfumes spread throughout the “civilized” world - Greece, Rome, Arab countries. The fall of the Roman Empire temporarily slowed down the rapid development of perfumery, but in the 12th century, due to the development of international trade, the production and distribution of fragrances resumed with renewed vigor.

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In the 17th century, perfumes began to enjoy enormous success. In 1656, perfume and glove manufacturers in France carried out a joint project to produce scented gloves. The use of perfume in France became so popular that even the palace of King Louis XV began to be called the “fragrant court”, since literally everything there was saturated with delicious smells - not only the clothes of the courtiers, but also all the furniture. However, such an active use of perfumes was associated not so much with the aesthetic feelings of the refined French, but with the banal desire to muffle other, far from so refined, smells with which the cities were saturated at that time.

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Along with art and industry, perfumery also changed rapidly throughout the 19th century. Changes in tastes and the development of modern chemistry gave a new impetus to the development of perfumes. Due to the noticeably increased demand for aromatic products, industries for the production of raw materials for the production of perfumes began to actively develop (primarily the city of Grasse in Provence). And Paris became the world's largest center for the production of perfumes.

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Soon the issue of storing perfume in glass bottles arose. Perfume manufacturer Francois Coty, together with his friend Rene Lalique, began supplying bottles for such famous brands as Guerlain, D"Orsay, Lubin, Molinard, Roger & Gallet and others. The Baccarat company also appeared, which became famous as a manufacturer of bottles for Mitsouko (Guerlain), Shalimar (Guerlain) and others, and the Brosse company created the famous bottle for the most popular fragrance Chanel No. 5, created back in 1921 by the great Mademoiselle Coco Chanel. Until now, Chanel No. 5 is one of the most popular and beloved fragrances all over the world.

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Today there is a huge variety of choice on the perfume market; more than twenty thousand fragrances are known.

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Perfume with pheromones

Pheromones (Greek φέρω - “to carry” + ορμόνη - “to encourage, cause”) is the collective name for substances - products of external secretion, secreted by some species of animals and providing chemical communication between individuals of the same species. Pheromones are biological markers of their own species, volatile chemosignals that control neuroendocrine behavioral responses, developmental processes, as well as many processes associated with social behavior and reproduction. Pheromones modify the behavior, physiological and emotional state, or metabolism of other individuals of the same species. As a rule, pheromones are produced by specialized glands.

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History of discovery

The first to discover pheromones were a group of German researchers who, in 1956, were able to isolate a substance from the glands of female silkworms that attracted males of the same biological species. The resulting substance was named bombycol, after the Latin name for the silkworm, Bombyx mori.

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Classification of pheromones

Based on their effects, pheromones are divided into two main types: releasers and primers. Releasers are a type of pheromone that induces an individual to take some immediate action and are used to attract mates, signal danger, and induce other immediate actions. Primers are used to shape some specific behavior and influence the development of individuals: for example, a special pheromone secreted by a queen bee. This substance inhibits the sexual development of other female bees, thus turning them into worker bees.

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The individual names of some types of pheromones include the following:

epagons - sexual attractants; odmihnions - path markers indicating the way to the house or to the prey found, markers on the boundaries of the individual territory; toribons - pheromones of fear and anxiety; gonophions - pheromones that induce sex change; gamophions - pheromones of puberty; etophions are behavioral pheromones.

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Application of pheromones

A couple of decades ago, perfumed products containing pheromones appeared. The composition of such products is kept secret. Perfume manufacturers began to market both individual “elixirs of love” and “perfumes with pheromones.” Elixirs of love are substances with synthetic pheromones, intended to be added to regular perfume. Perfume with pheromones is a ready-to-use product, and all the consumer needs is to choose the scent that is optimal for him. Sex pheromones are actively used in the perfume and cosmetic industries. The use of such means enhances attractiveness to the opposite sex on an unconscious level.

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Eau de Toilette

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Eau de toilette (French eau de toilette, the official term appeared in the 19th century) is a perfumery aromatizer in the form of alcohol-water solutions of fragrant substances. Typically, eau de toilette contains from 4 to 10% essential oils dissolved in alcohol 80-90% vol. Eau de toilette differs from perfume in a less pungent and less persistent aroma.

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The official term “eau de toilette” arose thanks to Napoleon I Bonaparte: while in exile on the island of St. Helena, the emperor came up with his own recipe for aromatic water with the addition of bergamot to replace the end of his cologne. Napoleon called his invention “eau de toilette,” and since then this term has become official.

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The history of eau de toilette is much more ancient. In the ancient world, eau de toilette was widely used: it was sprinkled on sheds and pets, it poured out in city fountains, and it moistened and filled the air at receptions with aromas. However, with the fall of the Roman Empire, eau de toilette temporarily became the property of the East.

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Cologne

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Cologne

(French: Eau De Cologne “Cologne Water”) - perfume created by Italian perfumer Johann Maria Farina

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In 1709, Johann Maria Farina founded a manufactory in Cologne, today the oldest perfume company in the world. Farina names her perfume in honor of her new homeland, the city of Cologne: Eau De Cologne - cologne (“Cologne water” - German Kölnisch Wasser).

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“My aroma is reminiscent of a spring morning in Italy after rain, oranges, lemons, grapefruit, bergamot, cedar, flowers and herbs of my homeland,” writes I. M. Farina in 1708 in a letter to his brother.

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Today, the centuries-old history of cologne is continued by Johann Maria Farina, an eighth-generation descendant of Farina. "Eau de cologne" is a protected trademark of Farina's perfume. To this day, the eighth generation of the Farina dynasty continues to produce the original Cologne water, the recipe of which was and remains a secret. Over time, the name "Eau de Cologne" became a general designation for a light-smelling perfume. In this case, we mean flavored water, which contains 70% alcohol and from 2 to 5% aromatic substances.

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Deodorant

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Deodorants-

cosmetic products used to eliminate odor (deodorization, from dez - deprivation, elimination, and Lat. odor - smell, i.e. elimination of odor). Most often, deodorants are used in the armpit area to eliminate odor, mainly caused by the products of bacterial decomposition of sweat. The vast majority of deodorants sold are antiperspirant deodorants. These products help close the sebaceous glands, etc. prevent sweating. All antiperspirants known today are also deodorants, that is, they not only prevent sweating, but also prevent the growth of bacteria.

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Story

Initially, to reduce unwanted odors, they began to use perfumes that simply masked other odors. A variety of substances were used to deodorize air, rooms, etc. (charcoal, bleaching lime solution, potassium permanganate, hydrogen peroxide, etc.). Odors resulting from the (putrefactive) decomposition of organic substrates (human and animal excretions, food products, corpses, etc.) are in most cases quite unpleasant. The most effective are mixtures of several components - antiperspirants, essential oils, synthetic fragrances, solvents, etc., which have a more intense and persistent odor compared to individual components.

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Modern body deodorants

Currently, roll-on and roll-on antiperspirant deodorants, as well as aerosol deodorants, are most widely used. The active ingredients of antiperspirant deodorants are aluminum and zirconium complexes. These products often contain ethyl alcohol, but not all consumers like products containing alcohol: alcohol may be too drying for sensitive skin.

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Deodorant safety problem

Some substances that are included in common body deodorants are attracting increased attention from hygienists, as there are concerns that they may have adverse effects on human health.

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This primarily applies to the following components:

Aluminum salts. Parabens. Substances that release formaldehyde.

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Never underestimate the importance of perfume! Perfume is an expressive means of demonstrating individuality, which, moreover, creates a mood - and not only for you, but for those around you!