Hello, dear friends!

The holidays at the Knitting School have been somewhat delayed - it’s time to go back to school. 😉

On the agenda - button loops related knitting needles. Button loops there are horizontal, vertical and hole loops(for small buttons). And today we will look in detail at how to perform horizontal knitting buttonholes .

Usually the length of the loop cut depends on the diameter of the button, but since button loops related knitting needles, stretch very quickly, it is recommended to make them HALF SMALLER than the diameter of the buttons.

If the product (jacket, cardigan, jacket, coat) is planned to be knitted single breasted (bar width is usually from 1.5 to 6 cm), buttons are placed on the middle front line in one row. If double-breasted (placket width from 6 cm or more), then in two rows at the same distance from the middle of the front. But no matter the width of the fastener bar, its middle should always coincide with the middle of the front.

And so that the buttoned button does not go beyond the edge of the placket, the middle of the horizontal loop should not coincide with the middle of the front, but should shift slightly towards the front. If the buttonholes are vertical or in the form of holes (holes), then they are placed on the line of the middle front (in single-breasted models).

Well, this is all a prelude, now let's proceed directly to the execution process itself knitting buttonholes .

Horizontal loops

Horizontal buttonholes can be knitted two ways.

To understand how they are performed, you can knit a sample of a fragment of the right front by casting on 15 loops and knitting 3-4 rows: 10 loops - garter stitch (this will be our bar) and 5 loops - stocking (and this is a shelf).

Method 1

To make a horizontal loop in the front row, which starts with 10 garter stitch loops, knit 3 knit stitches after the edge, then cast off 4 loops in a row () , then knit 2 knit stitches for the placket and 5 knit stitches for the front stitch.

Horizontal buttonhole (1st row)

In the next (purl) row we knit 5 front loops purl, then 2 knit stitches of the bar, and above the four closed loops we cast on 4 and finish the row.

In this case, horizontal button loop performed in two rows - front and back.

Horizontal buttonhole (2nd row)

In the next (front) row we knit the air loops with the front ones behind the back walls.

Horizontal buttonhole (3rd row)

As a result of our efforts (or torment?) we get this horizontal buttonhole (I think large).

Horizontal loop for a large button (4th row)

Method 2

In this case, horizontal button loop performed in one row and turns out narrower than knitted in the previous way.

To perform a horizontal loop in the second way, in the front row after the edge loop, we knit 3 front loops, then close 4 loops in a row, WITHOUT USING a working thread.

To do this, remove 2 loops on the right knitting needle and, using the left knitting needle, put the 1st loop on the 2nd, then do the same 2nd to 3rd, 3rd to 4th and 4th to 5th.

We return this loop to the left knitting needle, and on the right knitting needle we cast on 4 air loops with the working thread, and finish the row with knit stitches.

In the next (purl) row we knit the chain stitches with knit stitches behind the back walls.

Horizontal loop No. 2 is ready!

In one of the next posts (why wait!) we will continue the conversation about how to knit knitting buttonholes , only now vertical and loop-holes.

If you don’t want to miss this and other useful information for yourself, subscribe to receive new articles from my blog (you won’t be in any danger, honestly!).

And in conclusion, I suggest you listen to the song “Musician” performed by Konstantin Nikolsky. The song is a little sad, but not soulless...

When knitting buttonholes, you first need to decide how to make the cut - vertical, horizontal or round. Round holes are usually knitted for small buttons. The length of the hole is determined by the diameter of the button. Since knitted loops stretch, when knitting the holes are made half as large as the diameter of the button.

If the knitted model is single-breasted, then the holes are located in a row along the middle line of the front. If the model is double-breasted - in two rows on either side of the middle front.

The holes for buttons are knitted so that the buttoned button does not go beyond the edge of the placket, so the middle of the horizontal cut should not coincide with the middle of the front, but shift slightly to the side opposite to the edge of the placket. Vertical cuts are usually placed at the mid-front line.

Read how to knit armholes and sleeves in the topics “Lesson 10. Learning to knit armholes, shoulders, back necks” and “Lesson 11. Learning to knit a set-in sleeve”.

Horizontal buttonholes

First way. For single-breasted knitted model. Cast on 20 loops: for the bar 10 loops and for the shelf 10 loops. 2-3 cm are knitted. The placket is knitted in garter stitch, the front in stocking stitch. The line of the middle of the front is marked on the bar. Then, four loops wide, a horizontal hole is made, shifted relative to the middle by one loop to the left.

This is done like this: after the edge loop at the very beginning, 4 knit stitches are knitted and the next 4 loops are secured, the bar ends with 1 knit stitch and the front stitch is knitted. Then the work is turned over, the wrong side is knitted to the hole and 4 air loops are made. The row is completed and the loop is ready.

During subsequent knitting, chain stitches are knitted behind the back wall.

Second way. Knitting button holes in one row, which allows you to get narrower loops.The edge is removed and knit 3 are knitted. 4 loops are secured, stretching one into the other. The working thread remains at the beginning of the cut.

To secure a thread without a working thread, do the following. The first 2 loops are removed on the right knitting needle, with the help of the left knitting needle the first loop is put on the second, while the second remains on the right knitting needle. The third loop is removed on the right knitting needle and the second loop is put on the third, then the fourth loop is removed and put on the third, the fifth loop is removed and the fourth is put on it. The last loop remaining on the right needle is transferred to the left. This creates a hole with 4 loops.

Then, 4 chain stitches are cast on the right knitting needle and 2 knit stitches are knitted for the placket and 2 stitches for the front. In the next row, chain stitches are knitted behind the back wall.

Vertical hinges

For vertical loops, the holes are located on the line of the middle front.

First way. A placket is knitted along the front side, and the loops are removed with a pin. Then the rest are knitted to a height that is 2 rows higher than the hole.

Edge stitches are knitted on the side of the hole. After finishing knitting, the thread remains on the loop side.

The loops are removed from the pin onto an additional knitting needle. We take an additional ball and knit rows in height that are 2 rows less than on the side of the cut.

Then the thread is broken and both halves are joined and knitted together with a working thread. This creates a hole with 4 loops.

After knitting, the protruding ends must be carefully hidden using a hook.

Second way. On the front side, the loops of the right half of the bar are knitted and removed onto a spare knitting needle (5 loops). Then the number of rows is knitted, 1 row more than the height of the hole. The edge of the hole is made jagged.

Then, the end of the right knitting needle is wrapped counterclockwise with the working thread.

The same knitting needle is used to knit stitches from the spare needle. Thus, both parts of the plank end up on the same knitting needle, but they are separated only by turns.

The loops of the right half of the bar are knitted like this. The row is knitted to the cut and the last loop is knitted together with one turn of the front one behind the back one.

The product is turned over and 1 loop is removed, the row ends. And so on until the turns end.

Loop-hole

The hole loop is knitted like this. A yarn over is made in the place where the loop should be located. In the next row the yarn over is dropped without knitting. This creates a hole for a button.

Useful tips for knitting loops

1) The middle of the fastener bar should coincide with the middle of the front. When knitting according to patterns, use knitting conventions.

2) The width of the strap for a single-breasted model should be in the range from 1.5 to 6 cm, for a double-breasted model - from 6 cm.

3) The width of the fastener bar must be determined after selecting the buttons.

4) When distributing buttons, the first one is placed on the waist line (or higher for models with a belt), the rest - focusing on the first one.

5) For large buttons, the loops need to be overcast. You can use the same yarn for overcasting. When sewing buttonholes, the holes are made a little larger.

6) In products made from thick yarn, buttons are taken on the stem and not sewn tightly to avoid being pressed into the placket.

7) If buttons are not suitable for a knitted product, then you can make them yourself. To do this, the finished buttons are covered with knitted stocking fabric.

Buttonholes are made in the form of horizontal and vertical cuts, and for small buttons - in the form of a small hole. The length of the hole is determined by the diameter of the button. In knitting, the size of the cut is half the diameter of the button. This is due to the fact that the cut stretches greatly. Vertical loops are made along the line of the middle front, and horizontal ones are shifted from the line of the middle front to the side opposite to the edge of the bar. Buttons are sewn along the line of the middle front.

Knitting horizontal buttonholes. On the bar, in the place where the loop should be, fasten the loops without the help of a working thread, pulling them one through the other. The working thread remains at the beginning of the loop. How to do it? Slip the first two stitches onto the right needle and slip the first stitch onto the second using the left needle. The second loop remains on the right needle. Slip the third loop onto the right needle and put the second loop on the third and thus secure as many loops as required for the cut. Then, using the working thread, cast on the right knitting needle as many chain stitches as you secured. In the next row, knit chain stitches behind the back walls. The result is a horizontal loop.

Another way to knit horizontal loops: in the front row on the bar, fasten the number of loops that are necessary for the cut and knit to the end of the row. In the next purl row, after knitting to the hole, throw on the knitting needle as many chain loops as you secured in the previous row and knit the row to the end. In the next front row, knit the chain stitches behind the back walls. The result was a horizontal loop made in two rows.

Knitting vertical buttonholes. Knit the stitches of the right half of the bar and slip them onto a spare needle. Then knit the rest of the strip to a height that will be one row greater than the height of the hole itself. It is better to make the edge of the hole knotty so that it stretches less. The working thread remains on the hole side. Wrap the working yarn around the end of the right needle counterclockwise. The number of turns must be equal to the number rows at the height of the cut. Then knit stitches from the spare needle. Both parts of the plank are now on the same spoke and separated by turns. Next, knit only the loops of the right half of the bar as follows: tie the row to the cut and knit the last loop together with the front loop behind the back wall. Turn the knitting (the working thread is behind the work), slip the first loop and work a row. In the next row, knit the loop and turn together again and knit until you have shortened all the turns. When you knit the last turn, knit the row to the end. The result is a vertical loop.

You can also make vertical buttonholes using an additional ball. Knit the right half of the placket and slip the knitted loops onto a pin. Knit all remaining loops to the height of the cut. At the same time, make edge loops along the edge of the loop. The thread after the last row remains on the hole side. Transfer the loops from the pin to an additional knitting needle and knit with thread from the second ball. Knit two rows less than knitted with the working thread. Cut the thread from the second ball, leaving an end of about five centimeters on the side of the cut. Knit the loops from the additional knitting needle with the working thread. Both halves of the loop are connected. Knit a few more rows of the strap and use a crochet hook to hide the ends of the threads that remain after knitting the vertical loop.

Loops for small buttons are made using a yarn over. In the appropriate place on the wrong side of the product, make a yarn over and knit the next two loops together with the front side behind the back walls. In the next row, knit a yarn over - the loop is ready.

If the placket is knitted with a 2x2 elastic band, then the buttonholes can be made as follows: In the appropriate place on the placket in front of the two purl loops, knit one knit stitch and one purl stitch together with a slant to the left, make two yarn overs and knit the next two loops together. In the next row, knit one yarn over with a knit stitch and the second yarn over with a knit stitch. It turned out to be a neat loop.

If the buttons are very small, then you can not knit the loops, but make them using some object with a blunt end (for example, a pen or pencil). Pierce the bar with it in the place where the loop should be and turn it several times, widening the hole. A small button will pass.

If you are making buttonholes for large buttons, it is better to overcast the edges to avoid stretching.

Usually knitting buttonholes knitted on a bar that runs in the middle of the front. The location of the loops is determined from the pattern, so that when knitting you know exactly how many centimeters to make the next loop. ().

First of all, note the location of the topmost loop and the bottom one. Then the distance between them is divided into equal intervals. The distance between the loops can be any, but you should know that large buttons are placed on the product no more often than 15 cm apart, small buttons may have a smaller gap. Remember also that in a knitted product, buttonholes with knitting needles stretch greatly, so they are always made slightly smaller than the diameter of the buttons.

Knitted buttonholes come in horizontal, vertical and small round shapes. The choice of type of loops also depends on the width of the placket (for example, on a narrow placket it is unlikely that horizontal loops can be made), the diameter of the buttons (for small buttons, round loops-holes are usually made), as well as the type of knitting (horizontal loops look better on garter stitch, and with an elastic band - vertical). Therefore, in order to be able to create knitted sweaters, you should learn how to knit all types of loops.

Such loops are best performed on a bar knitted with a 1 x 1 elastic band. In the right place before the purl loop, make , then knit the purl and the next front loops together with the front one. In the next purl row, knit this yarn over.

This type of loop is suitable for planks connected with a 2 x 2 elastic band.

On the fastener bar in the right place, knit 1 knit and 1 purl loops (this is the 1st loop of the next purl “track”) together (tilting to the left); then make 2 yarn overs. Knit the 2nd purl stitch and the next knit stitch together. In the next purl row, knit the 1st yarn over, and knit the 2nd yarn over with a knit yarn over.

How to knit regular horizontal stitches

Video on horizontal hinges

Invisible buttonhole, knitted, HERE (click on the plus)

The sample is knitted on a bar of 10 loops, the loop itself is knitted from three loops between 4 loops from the edge and 3 loops from the shelf.

1. We knit 3 loops from the edge (keeping in mind that the loop itself is designed for 4 loops from the edge), i.e., 1 loop less than the planned beginning of the button loop itself.

2 — 5. Take a hook and knit a chain on the next 4 open loops. We do not touch the working thread, we only knit the loops themselves. Transfer the last loop to the left needle.
6. Now we need to get rid of the depression (shown by the arrow).
7 — 9. Take the hook and pull the thread through the first link of the chain (we pierce the complete chain, i.e. both threads). Transfer the resulting loop to the right needle. Now we have returned the 4 outer loops, as originally planned (the beginning of the buttonhole is 4 loops from the edge).
10. We cast on 3 loops with chain loops (crossed yarn overs) according to the photo or at such an angle that it would be convenient to knit stitches in the next row (for garter stitch). We collect air loops tightly.
11 — 12. We knit to the end of the row and go back, we knit the cast-on loops according to the pattern, in this case - with knit stitches, like the rest of the loops of the shawl placket.
13 — 15. We knit the next row, and here we find the thread from the air loop from the previous row, which in the future can interfere and get tangled when fastening the button. Depending on the inclination of the air loops, this thread can form either in the left or in the right corner of the loop. We lift this thread onto the left knitting needle from the back and knit it together with the next loop of the bar.
16. The buttonhole is completed, continue to knit to the next loop.

Vertical knitted loops

This method of knitting loops is suitable for ones that are knitted together with shelves (whole knitted). Mark the middle of the bar, knit on loops to the mark and perform the required number of rows (equal to the length of the hole), do not cut the thread. On the remaining loops of the bar, make the same number of rows from another ball and cut this thread. Then continue knitting on all stitches as usual.

Video on knitting vertical loops

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Features of knitting strips in jackets

Knitting a finishing strip with a rounded corner.

The finishing strip with a rounded corner can be knitted either together with the shelf or separately from it. In the latter case, the bar is knitted by picking up loops along the edge of the finished shelf or sewing it to the shelf.

Let's consider knitting a strip with a set of loops along the edge of the shelf.

The loops are picked up along the length of the shelf from the side bevel to the beginning of the rounding of the shelf and begin to knit with the selected pattern, adding loops for rounding. Add two loops: on the left shelf at the end of each front row, and on the right - at the end of each purl row. To ensure that the rows remain even and the rounding is smooth, loops are not added immediately. One loop is added by knitting the outer loop twice, and the other is added from one end of the thread after knitting the outer loop. In the next row, the second added loop becomes the outermost one and is removed undone.

Finish the rounding of the shelf by adding one loop at the end of the corresponding row.

Next, finish knitting the shelf and pick up loops along its lower edge to knit the finishing strip. In order not to tighten the edge of the shelf, loops are cast on more often at the curve. For the same purpose, the hinges of the finished finishing strip are secured without tightening them.

Knitting a strip at the same time as a shelf

In this case, first knit the horizontal part of the finishing strip from the side line to the corner of the shelf. After this, they gradually move to the vertical part of the bar, which is knitted together with the shelf. At the same time, at the corner, the loop columns of the horizontal bar are sequentially rotated upward by 90° at the same distance. This angle is especially effective when making the plank with an elastic pattern with crossed loops.

The rotation of the loop columns is done as follows. Having reached the corner of the shelf, the bar continues to be knitted so that each purl row is under-knitted by two loops. Leaving these two loops on the left knitting needle, turn the front and knit the front row completely. Knit this way until all the unknitted loops are on the left knitting needle. In this case, the strip from the corner of the shelf is cut at an angle of 45°.

Next, make a turn to the vertical part of the plank, shortening the rows on the horizontal part of the plank and lengthening them on the vertical part. First, three loops are knitted according to the pattern, and then each purl row is extended by two loops. When the turn is completed, all the loops from the left knitting needle will again transfer to the right one. After this, loops are cast on the horizontal part of the bar to knit the shelf according to preliminary calculations, taking into account the increase in loops. The front is knitted with the main pattern, and the placket is knitted with an elastic band with crossed loops.

Knitting the strap before knitting the front.

The picture shows the corner of the shelf with the finishing strip knitted before the shelf.

The number of loops required for knitting is determined by the pattern.

Having cast loops onto the knitting needles, mark the corner loop (passing a thread of a different color through it) and begin knitting the bar with the chosen pattern.

Starting from the third row, in each front row, 3 loops are knitted together, of which the middle loop is a corner loop.

No loops are decreased on the wrong side, and the loop obtained from knitting three together is removed unknitted. As a result of such decreases, the corner of the finishing strip is formed.

Having received the desired width, the loops of the vertical part of the bar are removed with thread, and from the loops of the horizontal part of the bar they begin to knit the shelf with the selected pattern. At the same time, at the edge of the strip in each row (both front and back), two loops are knitted together, capturing one loop of the shelf and one loop of the finishing strip. This way the plank is connected to the shelf without adding loops.

Knitting strips and buttonholes

Let's consider knitting narrow strips for fasteners, without touching the wide finishing strips, the knitting of which will be described separately.

On the pattern, the middle of the placket should coincide with the line of the middle of the front. Therefore, both shelves are wider by half the plank.

To prevent them from curling, the strips are most often knitted with double-sided patterns that differ from the main pattern of the fabric. The simplest way to knit strips is to knit them together with the shelves in the same pattern. In this case, the planks are made twice as wide, folded and hemmed on the inside.

Hinges with horizontal cut

Buttonholes are marked on the pattern: for women's products on the right shelf bar, for men's items on the left shelf bar. Products that fit at the waist should be fastened at the waistline.

For loose products, you can first mark the top and bottom loops, and divide the distance between them into equal intervals.

The cut of buttonholes can be horizontal or vertical. Loops with a horizontal cut (Fig. 87) are made like this: after knitting four to five loops from the edge, fasten 2, 3 or 4 loops (depending on the size of the buttons).

In the next row above these loops, pick up as many loops from one end of the thread as you have secured.

Loops with a vertical cut (Fig. 88) are knitted from two balls. Having knitted a row of loops from the main ball to the middle of the bar, where the loop should be, the remaining loops of the bar are knitted from another, auxiliary ball. Knit this way until you get a loop of the desired height. Having finished the loop, continue knitting from one main ball. When the thread of the auxiliary ball is broken, ends remain, which are carefully secured to the wrong side of the product.

Vertical whole-knitted stripes.

Knit the placket at the same time as the front (from bottom to top).
Such planks are easy to implement,
- no need to knit, cast on or sew anything extra!!!
For the bar, loops are cast on at the same time as the shelf.
You need to start knitting from the shelf - without holes for buttons (on the left - for women's jackets, on the right - for men's). Because using a ready-made shelf, in the future, it will be easier to correctly determine the interval between the holes for buttons on the opposite shelf.
The strap is tied with an elastic band

BUT! It is necessary that the plank pattern has the same number of rows in height as the main shelf pattern. For example, if you want to knit the main fabric in stockinette stitch and the placket in garter stitch. At the same time, the plank will look shorter than the shelf and tighten. This happens because the garter stitch pattern is embossed and seems to shrink in height.

You need to either choose a different pattern for the plank, or level the height with shortened rows.
The point of this method is that we knit the collar loops, but do not knit the front loops.
The plank and shelf are made simultaneously with different patterns and during the work process it may turn out that one of them will “grow” faster in height and the canvas on one edge becomes higher than on the other.
You need to adjust the height like this:
For example, if the main pattern runs ahead, then knit the loops of the placket, turn the knitting over and knit again only the placket, again the placket, and only then the entire shelf.
As a result, the bar will increase to the height of two rows.
You need to repeat the short rows along the entire length of the collar several times.
How many? Depends on your situation.

Whole knitted double trims.
To do this, for the bar, cast on twice as many loops and plus one on the bend.
You can make the bar in any pattern, and knit the folding loop either with a knit stitch or an extended knit stitch.

Fold the finished strip in half along the fold line, pin it with needles and sew.

The placket is knitted separately and sewn on.

It makes sense to knit the bar separately from the shelf even if you want to knit the bar (from top to bottom) in the same direction as the shelf. If the knitting density of the strap differs from the knitting density of the main pattern! We cast on loops to the width of the bar.
We knit and apply it to the main product, if necessary we pin it with needles and visually see how much more to knit.
Also, if you make a mistake and knit less than the required length, you can easily correct it by knitting several rows (or unraveling).
Before stitching, use safety pins to pin the placket in several places along its entire length to properly distribute the entire length of the placket.
Never install a plank that is longer than the shelf, otherwise the edge will be wavy and uneven.
Do not sew the bar with a “back needle” seam - the joints will look sloppy.

Also, if you want to knit a bar with a thread color different from the main one, knit the bar separately.

If you need a bar in the transverse direction, cast on loops for the length of the bar and knit it to the desired width. The most important thing here is to calculate how many loops you need to cast on for the bar.

You can sew the placket not to the edge loops, but by knitting additional 5 loops on the shelves using stockinette stitch. The placket will overlap the additional loops. Hem along the front and back sides. This method allows you to hide all the uneven edges of the shelves and prevents the strips from being pulled out.

Cast on a strip of edge loops. Transverse direction.

In order for the bar to lie well, it is important to cast on the correct number of loops. If there are not enough loops, the bar pulls the part together or bends; if there are too many, it assembles.

To do this, use a thick thread or tape placed on the edge to measure the length and calculate the loops based on the knitting density. It is clear that for this calculation a sample with a pattern for the strip is needed.
About knitting density - here.

There is also a technique for casting on loops evenly along the entire edge:
- Divide the edge into equal sections and mark with pieces of contrasting thread or marking rings.
- divide the number of loops required to cast on the bar by the number of segments.
- this will give you the number of stitches you need to cast on in each segment.

Let's look at why the loops need to be calculated so carefully.

different direction of the canvas
even if the pattern of the strip and the main fabric is the same.
Look at your knitting density, the values ​​are not the same
(for example, 30 loops for 28 rows - 10x10cm)

Different drawing.
The density of the patterns is different

We collect from edge loops
The edge loop is higher than the usual one, so it is two rows high.

And it will be even more accurate if you pull out the loops with a crochet hook (hook at the top of the product, thread at the bottom) and put the resulting loop on a knitting needle.

There are several “recipes” for how to cast on loops along the edge:

1. “out of two loops - three”
We cast on the first loop, hooking it onto both slices.
Let's move on to the next loop - we need to get two from it. First we hook in exactly the same way as in the first loop, and we get the second by hooking on one piece of the loop. And so on.
Yes, you need to type on the front side.

2. “From broaches”
The loops are not cast on from the edge loops, but from the space between the loops of the last row.
It turns out smoother than from the edge row, there are no holes.
But you need to cast on fewer loops than broaches: we cast on three, skip the fourth.

If the bar is single, then you need to cast on the loops on the front side, and on the back there will be a rib.

If you intend that the bar will be double then:
- you can cast on loops on the front side and hem from the back
- it’s better to cast on the loops from the wrong side, leave open loops and hem along the face with a kettel stitch.
This will look more professional.

3. From chain stitch

Crochet a chain stitch along the edge of the shelf, and then pull out the loops.
But here you also need to know how many loops the chain stitch has and how many loops we will ultimately cast on for the strap. This method is suitable for a more even and professional connection of the plank and shelf, but does not eliminate calculations.

The type of bar also depends on the method of closing the loops.
If all the loops are closed with facial loops, then a path of loops is formed similar to a tambourine one.

But it’s much more beautiful when the loops are closed according to the pattern. The knit stitches are knitted, and the purl stitches are knitted together.

But there are other ways to close loops, such as closing loops with a needle.