Probably every modern woman has a vest in her wardrobe, or even more than one. It is fashionable, practical, beautiful. The vest can be of a wide variety of styles, different lengths, for different purposes. Modern vests are made from different fabrics and materials, including leather and even lace. Hence the conclusion: there are no many vests.

We offer a pattern of a women's vest with a collar and framed pockets.

This pattern can be used for sewing a classic vest made of suit fabric, plaid fabric, stripes, and you can also choose an elegant fabric, use bright materials, embroidery, beads, sequins, etc.

A ready-made vest pattern with a collar is given for women with a chest girth of 100 and 104 cm.

Bust: 100-104cm

Waist: 78-82cm

Hips: 106 110cm

Pattern for chest circumference 96 cm can bedownload for free .

It is easy to download the pattern, the instruction is located

Instructions on how to print the pattern are

Ready-made pattern of a women's vest with a dan collar without allowances on the seams.

Print the pattern sheets on the printer and connect them in accordance with the diagram. The scheme is the order in which the pattern sheets are connected. It is printed on the first page.

Be sure to check the scale. On a printed sheet with a depicted square of 10x10 cm, the sides of 10 cm should correspond to exactly 10 centimeters. To do this, in the printer settings, set the print scale of the document to 100% (without scaling).

Additionally to the main details you need to cut out facings for pockets in a frame 18 x 2.5 cm - 4 parts and valances for pockets 18 x 6 cm - 2 parts.

Before cutting, check again for compliance with your measurements with the parameters of the pattern.

Ready-made patterns are given for a conditionally typical figure. If your figure differs from the conventionally typical one, you should adjust the pattern taking into account the characteristics of your physique and only after that proceed with cutting.

Don't forget to give seam allowances, as well as additional allowances in those places where clarifications are possible when trying on.

Having swept away the details, try on the product, make any necessary corrections and start sewing.

The vest can be either lined or unlined. The lining is cut according to the main details, without taking into account the picks and facings.

No special recommendations for tailoring this vest model are required. It is only worth noting that armholes can be processed not only with the proposed facings, but also in another way, for example, with an oblique trim or a wide edging. The main thing is that the processing method you choose matches the type of fabric and the purpose of the product itself.

For those who want to build a pattern for a specific figure according to the measurements taken, we have a detailed semi-adjacent silhouette. Having such a basic pattern, you can create a variety of styles of clothing.

Leave your questions, wishes and suggestions in the comments to a specific article. We will definitely consider them.

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In a previous article, I showed you how to model a base pattern for creating a pattern for a classic women's vest with a V-neck.

In this article - the construction of patterns of vests with an English collar and a stand-up collar. And also - methods for transferring the chest tuck, which will allow you to sew a vest of any model.

How to make a vest pattern with an English collar and detachable side details.

In an article on building an English collar pattern, I already advised novice craftswomen to make a pattern of the upper collar not with angular lines, but with semicircular ones - it is much easier to work with it.

This process is described in detail in the recommended article, so now we will pay more attention to how to model the base pattern of a vest or jacket in order to sew a model with cut-off side parts - photo 12. You can read about changes in the patterns of the front and back, deepening armholes, in the first part of the master class.

The only difference is in the changes in the cutout line. After you have drawn the line of the edge of the bead at a distance of 1.5 cm from the line of the middle of the shelf, draw the shape of the English collar and make a pattern for the upper collar.

Draw the bottom lines of the vest and pocket. As a rule, the pocket line starts at the waist line and crosses the lines of the central tuck at a slight angle.

We make a pattern of the side parts of the vest.

The width of the finished side piece must be at least 10 cm to get a nice fit at the waist in the finished product. The optimal width is 11 - 15 cm, depending on your size.

For example, for sizes 46 - 48, you have chosen a side part width of 11 cm. It is better to distribute this distance between the patterns of the shelf and back unevenly - the width of the part on the shelf is 5 cm, on the back - 6 cm - photo 13.

After you have determined the width, draw the lines of the side reliefs on the shelf and back. The width of the side tucks is 1-1.5 cm each. On the shelf, you calculate the width of the central tuck by subtracting the width of the side tuck. On average, depending on the measurement of OT, this distance is 2 - 2.5 cm

On the back, the calculation is similar. But it is better to make the width of the side tuck no more than 1 cm, and the central one - no more than 1.5 - 2 cm - photo 13, red arrows.

Cut off the side parts of the front and back along the lines of the reliefs, cut out tracing paper or paper in the area of ​​the darts at the waist.

We model the pattern of the back of the vest.

Models of vests with detachable side parts do not imply a shoulder tuck on the back details. Therefore, it must be closed. The exception is a stooped figure. In this case, it is better to leave the tuck.

How to do.

Divide the distance between points 1 and 2 (photo 14) approximately in half, draw a horizontal line. Cut the back pattern along this line to the top of the shoulder tuck - point 3. Connect the sides of the shoulder tuck.

In order for the length of the armhole not to change, the resulting solution of a small tuck going to the armhole is evenly distributed.

First, from the line of the central seam of the back, from the lower point of the neckline 4, we measure 0.5 cm to the left and draw a smooth line of the upper part of the central seam.

Secondly, we will change the angle of inclination of the shoulder seam line, lowering it down by 0.2 - 0.3 mm - point 5.

When combining the sides of the shoulder tuck, they may not match in length. Just draw a new line of the shoulder seam, cutting off the excess.

We close the chest tuck.

In order to close the chest tuck, cut the shelf part (without the side part) along the pocket line and connect the sides of the tuck - photo 15. Lower the top of the tuck 1 - 2 cm down - point 6.

Then connect the edges of the central tuck to the shelves and connect the pocket sections. Due to the inclination of the pocket line, as a rule, the upper part overlaps the lower one in the area of ​​the pocket entrance. Most often this is obtained by measuring the exhaust gas, equal to 88 - 90 cm.

In order to cut off the excess without disturbing the line of the inclination of the pocket, draw a line from the top of the chest tuck to the side seam - points 7 and 8 and cut the pattern along this line. At point 8, try to put one part on another so as not to change the length of the tuck, but get rid of the extra 2-3 mm on the side line - photo 16.

Construction of a pattern of a detachable side part.

In order to connect the side parts of the shelf and back into one piece, draw a vertical line on a sheet of paper - the dotted line in photo 17. And cut these pieces along the waist line.

When combined, the upper and lower parts are superimposed. Compensate for the millimeters lost during the imposition on the bottom line - photo 17.

Finishing the pattern.

Check all lines of reliefs and tucks - they must match in length. Once again, check the smoothness of the bottom line on the pattern of the back and the one-piece side part of the vest.

And, most importantly, check the direction of the grain thread on all the details of the pattern - all the lines of the grain thread must be drawn perpendicular to the waist line - photo 18. Otherwise, the product will not work out qualitatively - distortions or creases will appear.

We build a vest pattern with a stand-up collar.

We start by deepening the neck of the back by 0.5 cm - point 9. Then we expand the necks of the back and shelves by 1 cm - points 10 and 11. Along the middle line of the front, the neck deepens by 3 cm - point 12. Draw a line of the edge of the bead at a distance of 1.5 cm from the line of the middle of the front and mark the location of the buttons - photo 19.

To draw a new armhole line, shorten the shoulder seam lines by 2.5 - 3 cm and deepen the armholes by 2 cm.

To build a bottom line, it is necessary to draw a horizontal line on the back and shelf at a distance of 12 - 18 cm from the waist line. To build the lower corner of the shelf with a rounding, set aside 3 cm on the middle line and draw an inclined line that ends in a smooth semicircle.

If desired, you can make a figured triangular cutout on the back and remove the shoulder tuck in the same way as shown in the previous model.

Draw pocket lines and shorten the chest tuck at its top by 2 cm - point 13.

Cut the shelf pattern along the lines of the tucks. Connect the edges of the chest tuck - points 14 and 15. You will get the detail of the shelf shown in photo 20.

On the neck of the shelf, mark the point of the ledge - point 16. At this point, the stand-up collar will begin and end. In order for the right and left halves of the collar not to overlap each other, it is better to place the ledge point at the intersection of the neck line and the front center line.

Construction of a stand-up collar pattern.

The collar pattern is based on the main horizontal line - photo 21.

Measure the length of the new line of the neckline of the back and shelves from the ledge point 16. From the starting point 1, set aside the resulting value minus 0.5 cm to the left.

From the resulting point 2, draw up a vertical line 3 cm long - point 3.

Divide the distance between points 1 and 2 in half - put point 4.

Then divide the same distance by 3 - put a point 5. Connect points 5 and 3 with an auxiliary straight line. Connect points 3, 5 and 4 with a smooth line, as shown in photo 21. This is the stitching line of the stand-up collar.

Set aside the height of the collar from points 1 and 3, for example, 2.5 cm. Draw the desired line of inclination and rounding of the ends of the stand-up collar. Check the width of the rack along the entire length of the collar. Align the collar pattern with the back and front necklines. If necessary, make the necessary adjustments.

Once again, combine all the details of the patterns along the lines of tucks, reliefs, side seams. Check the direction of the lobar thread. On the collar, it runs clearly along the fold line.

Now you can independently build a pattern for a vest of any model. Good luck!

Shawl collar pattern or shawl collar, various forms Today we will talk about building a shawl collar pattern. This is not the first lesson on sewing collars, we are preparing a course on sewing a collar so that you can understand the construction of the collar, but for now, another topic is one-piece shawl collars.

Shawl collars in products are both one-piece with a product and sewn-in. Today I have prepared for you two options for shawl collars. To do this, we have already prepared a model of the bodice, to which we will build a shawl collar.

Fashion magazines offer products with a shawl collar, some of them are shown in the photo.

Shawl collars and their variety

1:31, 1:56, obviously sewn-in collars, here you can see it even from the stripes on the fabric, 1:58,

Shawl collars in models from fashion magazines

in this photo you can see that it is very open and at the same time it is still a shawl collar. We will talk about these collars in this video. Here is my basic pattern according to the cutting system 10 measurements.

2:27 The pattern is cut to the waist, since the construction of the collar is important for us. On the fabric, mark the center of the front and the width of the semi-skid. In order for our one-piece collar not to dig into the neck, it is necessary to remove a little from the neck line, a little more from the shoulder line than from the sprout line, 1.5 cm and 0.7 cm the largest, see photo 2:47

basic pattern Do the same with the neck line on the shelf 3:07

adjusting the neckline

Then, at a right angle to the shoulder seam, lay 10 -11 cm on the sprout 3:34,

and 7-8 cm at your discretion set aside the width of the collar, 3:46
Such a collar will not be narrowed or extended, the average comfortable size. 3:49

construction of a one-piece shawl collar

After that, you need to decide on the location of the first button, mark this place on the pattern (in our case, it is at a level slightly above the chest height point). 3:59

After we have decided on the level of the collar length (according to the position of the first button), with a smooth line, as in the photo, we connect the upper and lower points of the future collar. This line goes beyond the semi-skid line, see photo 4:50

determine the location of the first button to determine the length of the collar

In order for our collar to have a good fit on the back side, we need that section of the collar that we completed to a length of 10-11 cm and a width of 7-8 cm, additionally transfer it to tracing paper, and then make several (three is enough) cuts to slightly push this area apart, open each cut by 3-4 mm, see photo

5:07, as usual, they teach how to make a collar pattern - first make a common collar on tracing paper, then push it apart, 5:34
Parted, secured and cut out, in the place where the line of the shoulder along the shelf we make a notch, see photo 6:03,

adjusting the shawl collar pattern

so that we have the opportunity to carefully and competently sew part of the collar into the sprout. This is what our pattern looks like, a shelf with a one-piece collar and a back. On this basis alone, I will now show you two types of collars. We swept the bodice, this is what our pattern looks like 8:23
Please note that the one-piece collar, like the one-piece stand-up collar, goes into the shoulder and here is a notch, 8:46,

we sew a collar

one corner goes into the shoulder, the other into the sprout. After we swept everything away, we try on a mannequin, we find the center of the front,

fitting on a mannequin

fitting on me

and this is how everything looks on me, since the mannequin did not fit my pattern in size.

Pay attention to how the one-piece collar looks, everything is beautiful, but I do not like that the shawl collar is too straight in this cut. Now I will show you how you can change a one-piece shawl collar so that its line is slightly softened, rounded. To do this, we determine the place of the fold of our lapel, on the finished product we draw this fold line

fold line to determine the location of the tuck 11:47,

now, not reaching the location of the first button and not reaching a few centimeters from the line of the shoulder seam, 11:51
fold in half along the fold line and cut off the fabric with pins and make a tuck for the entire length, which we marked and cut it out with a smooth line. 12:33 pm

change in the cut of the one-piece shawl collar for a softer neckline

under our collar we got this hole, which will help us change the shape of the simple one-piece collar line to a slightly modified one, since the collar will now lie more rounded along the neckline.

When you cut out the selection, you will need to keep the shape of the shelf and collar, but for us, so that now there is no seam, we sweep it like a tuck, on the contrary, the basting seam is 0.5 cm.

Now let's try on our sample so that you can see the difference - on the left is our straight shawl collar, and on the right is a slightly rounded line after a little manipulation with the finished simple one-piece shawl collar, 14:43

Two options for a one-piece shawl collar

Two options for a one-piece shawl collar will help you diversify your wardrobe. By changing the width of the collar and a larger tuck, the shawl collar will have an even more rounded shape of the neck of the product.

*Collar construction course

On the site you can see other collars:

Collar pattern. One-piece stand-up collar with cutout

Original rack with a corner for warm clothes

The topic of collars is inexhaustible, so the continuation on shawl collars follows, and I was glad to show you these two options for a one-piece shawl collar, so that you learn and independently be able to diversify your wardrobe.

All the best, I was with you, Paukshte Irina Mikhailovna and Yastrebov Alexey!

Collar - an element of the product, characterized by the "flexibility" of the form. There are a huge number of its modifications, so for each type of face, physique and other individual characteristics, you can choose the ideal option. Most collars have a similar design - this is a visible part and a stand hidden from the eyes, separated from each other by an inflection. The details have a key difference - the way they connect to the bodice.

The element can be detachable (it is sewn along the cut line) or one-piece. In the second case, it is usually cut out in one piece with the front and back. This is how you can model:

• classic one-piece stand-up collars - with a hidden part height from 3.5-4.5 to 7-8 cm;
• standing-turn-down models with racks 2.5-3.5 cm;
• semi-erect and flat-lying varieties - with a height of up to 2 cm and 5 mm, respectively.

At the racks, the width of the flying part can vary (up to 25 cm), deaf or open fasteners. They fit snugly to the neck or frame it effectively, leaving a short distance. The choice of the final form depends only on the wishes of the future owner of the thing. The racks that are cut out along with the product have features - they must be taken into account when sewing clothes.

vigostore.ru

Features of one-piece racks

A one-piece collar is convenient to build on widened necks. This is due to the peculiarities of the style - it is most often used for outerwear, jackets, dresses and tops made of dense fabric, which is organically combined with a strict style. To make the part look beautiful, the product is processed with a wet-heat method using an iron. Fabrics that are used for uprights rarely stretch and their WTO on a narrow neckline can be problematic.

Most often, when building such collars, craftsmen start from the basic drawings of jackets, jackets and coats. The degree of expansion of the neck depends on the style of the product and the personal preferences of the owner. The value can vary from one to 5 centimeters and even more. There is a general "constructive" principle: with an increase in the height of the rack, the expansion along the neck should also grow. When creating a pattern, it is imperative to take into account the presence or absence of a middle seam on the back of the product. The sequence of modeling in the two cases is different.

If there is no seam connection, you need to build the part vertically, focusing on the middle line along the back. The upper section of the collar is slightly shifted, and the connection of the stand with the shoulder is carried out smoothly. In most cases, the excess width is removed in tucks. Their end should be located at a distance from the edge of the rack (at least half a centimeter), and the length depends on the height of the collar.

studfiles.net

Construction of a basic drawing of a one-piece rack

The pattern of the classic variety of such a collar is built according to the standard scheme. The work begins with drawing a right angle - the vertex is in the upper left corner, the rays are directed to the right side and down.

First draw up the stitching line:

1. a horizontal line is laid from the starting vertex according to the measure of the half-girth in the neck (with an increase of half a centimeter);
2. from the end of the segment to the right, an allowance is made for a half-skid (its edge rises by 3-5 mm);
3. from the original vertex lay 2-4 centimeters along the midline, marking the end with a dot;
4. the obtained marks are connected by an auxiliary line - it must be divided into three, indicating the division points;
5. from the first division point, a perpendicular straight line is drawn upward and half a centimeter is measured;
6. smoothly connect the auxiliary intermediate marks of the curve.

The construction of the rack begins from the auxiliary points along the vertical, and its protrusions are drawn smoothly, in the form of rounded curves. Next, a take-off cut is constructed with a deposit along the midline up to 9-10 cm (along the width of the part on the reverse side). From the end of this segment to the right, a horizontal is laid off after crossing with a vertical, extended by 1-4 centimeters. Then you need to display the length of the angle and smoothly connect the marks.

sdelala-sama.ru

Building Adjacent Racks

Depending on the degree of fit of the one-piece rack, it is built differently on the drawing. If the collar should tightly cover the neck, you first need to model the back. Circle the main pattern and find the location of the highest and lowest points. Continue the line in the center of the back up to the height of the rack, and mark the end of the segment.

Progress

1. From the highest point of the sprout, lay vertically the height of the stand along the shoulder (the value along the midline minus 1 centimeter).
2. From the end of the segment horizontally to the left and vertically, build up lines 1 cm long and smoothly connect the ends, continuing the curve to the cut on the shoulder.
3. Outline the drawing of the front (shoulder tuck should be moved to the side cut) and mark the highest and lowest points along the neckline.
4. From the highest mark, build a cut line along the shoulder to the right side and from its end bring up a segment at half the height along the rack (the angle must be right).
5. From the end built above the segment, draw a smooth curve to the highest point on the neck.

The height of the rack in the center of the front part is adjusted according to the parameter in the shoulder section - they must be equal (although you can determine the value from the model). It is permissible to bring the upper cut of the part to the depth of the cutout or draw it along the edge of the side, if a fastener is provided along the front. When building, be sure to set control marks - at the highest points on the sprout and neck.

stylefashion.com.ua

Collar design

One-piece rack can be designed "at a distance" from the neck. The modeling technique is similar to tight-fitting varieties: first, they build the back, tracing the main details on a paper sheet, and then expand the sprout by 1-3 centimeters.

Progress

1. Continue up the midline to the height of the rack.
2. From the point at the end of the expansion of the sprout, vertically set aside the height of the stand at the shoulder (the corresponding parameter is in the center minus 1 centimeter).
3. Connect the ends of the two lines drawn above by smoothly drawing a concave curve.
4. Make a side cut along the control point along the bottom of the sprout.
5. Make a tuck - the new line of the sprout is divided in two, on one half an element is made with a solution of 1 centimeter and a length along the height of the rack.

The construction of the front also starts from the main pattern. It is circled, in the resulting drawing, the highest and lowest points along the cutout are marked. If the product should have a fastener, in the middle you need to make an allowance of up to 3 cm for a half-skid.

1. from the end of the expansion, a vertical is drawn - the height along the rack from the seam in the shoulder;
2. from the point at the end of the segment, a horizontal line of about 2 centimeters is drawn to the right;
3. from the extended segment for half-skid up, measure the height along the rack with a centimeter increase;
4. from the obtained point to the right, a horizontal line of 2 centimeters is drawn.

The resulting auxiliary points are smoothly connected by concave curves - these are cuts from above and from the side. When making tucks, ⅓ of the length of the new neck is taken as the height, and 1-1.5 centimeters are left for the solution.

club.season.ru

Designing products with a seam in the center of the back

Many fashionable one-piece oversized coats have a seam in the middle of the back. To design a collar for such a product, you need to expand the neck to the desired volume and, accordingly, increase the height of the collar. Details of clothing are copied separately, and an element is modeled on them, starting from the back. An extension is made on it (about 2-2.5 cm) - the value is set aside along the cut on the shoulder and marked with a dot. From it, a line is drawn along the neck again (it will be needed to decorate the tucks).

Progress

1. Postpone the height of the stand and lower it along the shoulder cut (the height is reduced by 5-10 mm).
2. Make a bevel of about 5-20 mm and draw a new middle axis for the rack.
3. Make a bevel along the shoulder line, equal to or less than in the center.
4. Draw the upper cut of the element - straight or smoothly, according to the model.
5. Draw a smooth curve along the line of the shoulder.
6. Build a tuck to fit along the neck on the back: a solution of 7-10 mm (evenly distributed on both sides), length - two heights along the rack.

The next stage is modeling the part on the shelf.

1. If the product must have fasteners and buttons, you will need an allowance in the center of the front (depart from the middle 3-4 cm).
2. The edge along the board is drawn for the entire length of the shelf. It is necessary to expand the cutout by 2-2.5 cm, mark its end with a dot.
3. From this point, set aside the height of the element minus 5 mm (the cut along the shoulder is lowered similarly to the back).
4. Smoothly shape the line of the shoulder in the form of a curve.
5. Draw a bevel along the front line in the form of a straight line, and the upper cut in the form of a smooth curve.
6. Remove the extra width into the tuck, the location of which is selected according to the style and figure (it is usually placed perpendicular to the neck) - a solution of 1-1.5 centimeters, length along the rack.

liveinternet.ru

To find where the central axis of the tuck is located, you need to measure its length and set aside ⅓ of the value from the midline of the shelf. The solution is distributed along the cutout, and the top is finished without bringing half a centimeter to the top cut on the rack. In a similar way, collars can be modeled on other bulky products - jackets, jackets.

This type of collar is more often used in outerwear. Therefore, a one-piece rack is built on the base drawings of a coat, jacket or jacket.

A stand-up collar drawing is built on an expanded neck. How much to expand the neck is up to you, in accordance with the style that you have chosen for sewing. This value fluctuates within a fairly significant range of 0-5 cm or more. The higher the rack, the wider the neck should be. The height of the stand can also be different. If we talk about average values, then this is 4-8 cm.

Note. The presence or absence of a seam in the middle of the back matters! The construction in these two versions will not be significant, but differ. Today we are building a one-piece coat rack pattern. with a seam down the middle of the back.

And so, suppose we need to build a one-piece stand-up collar for a fashionable O-shaped coat with a seam in the middle of the back. For this task, we need to determine the height of the rack and, accordingly, the width of the neck. Let's expand the neckline by 2.5 cm and take the height of the stand to be 8 cm, since the coat is quite voluminous, then we will make the stand accordingly.

Copy on separate sheets of paper details coat basics: backs and shelves. If you take ready-made patterns of a particular coat model, then keep in mind that the neck has already undergone design changes in accordance with the style. How to proceed in this case, I will tell later.

And now we are focusing our attention on the drawing of the back and proceed to the design of the rack.

We expand the neck of the back by 2.5 cm. To do this, from the top of the neck, set aside the required value along the shoulder cut of the back and set point O. Draw a new neck line by connecting points A and O - we will need this line later to build a tuck.

Draw vertical lines from points A and O upwards.

From point A upwards, set aside the height of the rack and set point O1. In our example, the height of the rack will be 8 cm, and you set aside your value. Remember, the height of the rack can be different.

From the point O upwards, we set aside the height of the rack minus 0.5-1 cm and set the point O2 (8-0.5 \u003d 7.5 cm). Those. slightly lower the height of the rack at the level of the shoulder cut. This value is not constant, its average values ​​are in the range of 0.5-1 cm.

Now we need to do bevel on the center line of the rackAO1. To do this, to the left of the point O1, set aside the value of the bevel. The value of the bevel can also be different, within 0.5-2 cm. We will stop at the average values, for example, take 1 cm and set it aside from point O1 to the left and set point O3. We draw the middle line of the rack, connecting points A and O3.

Doing bevel along the shoulder line OO2. As a rule, the value of this bevel can be equal to or less than the value of the bevel along the center line. The amount of bevel depends on the style of the product, on the degree of fit of the stand to the neck, etc. We take the value of 0.7 cm and set aside it from the point O2 to the left, put the point O4.

We make out the line of the upper cut of the rack. The configuration of the upper line of the rack, depending on the specified parameters, can be designed as a straight line or a smooth line. It is important that the upper contour fits at a right angle to the center line of the stand - this is the general rule for constructing patterns for all collars.

We make out shoulder line smooth curve as shown in figure 4.

To ensure product fit along the neckline of the back let's build a tuck.
The tuck is located in the middle of the AO section.

Dart solution on the back is usually in the range of 0.7-1 cm. We take 1 cm.

Dart length equal to twice the height of the rack. In our case, this is 8x2 = 16 cm, while the top of the tuck should not reach the top cut of the rack by 0.5 cm.

Through the middle of the AO section, we draw a line parallel to the line of the shoulder section of the stand.
On the neck line, we distribute a solution of tuck 1 cm on both sides of the center line of the tuck - this is 0.5 cm each.

Down from the neck line of the joint stock company we set aside 8 cm.

We lower the top of the tuck by 0.5 cm from the top line of the rack. And we draw a tuck, as shown in Figure 5.

One-piece rack on the back is built.

Now let's start building the rack on the shelf.

In our example, the coat has a fastener with loops and buttons, so in the middle of the front we give an allowance, stepping back from the middle line of the front 3-4 cm, we draw a line of the edge of the side along the entire length of the shelf pattern.

The width of the side for a coat can be different, it depends on several factors and is determined in accordance with the style. In our example, the width of the board is 3 cm.

Now let's build the rack.

Just as on the back, expand the neckline by 2.5 cm, denote the expansion point with the letter C.

From point C upwards, we set aside the height of the rack minus 0.5 cm - just like on the back, we lower the shoulder section of the rack by 0.5 cm (8-0.5 \u003d 7.5 cm) and set point C1.

Doing bevel along the shoulder line CC1. To do this, set aside 2 cm to the right of point C1 and set point C2.

We make out shoulder line smooth curve as shown in the figure.

From point B upwards, set aside the height of the rack 8 cm and set point B1. By the way, the height of the front rack may be different and may not depend on the height of the rack on the back. In our example, it could well be 9-10 cm, or, conversely, be much less important if the style of the product suggested this.

Bevel on the front line the rack can be 2-4 cm. Set aside the bevel value to the right of point B1 and set point B2.

We draw the line of the upper cut of the rack with a smooth line, as shown in the figure. We make out the front cut of the rack with a straight line.

Construction of a tuck on a shelf.

To ensure a good fit of the product on the figure, it is necessary to remove the resulting excess neck width into the tuck.

The location of the tuck on the shelf depends on the style, on the features of the figure, etc. We will build a standard version. The direction of the tuck is perpendicular to the neck line.

Dart solution on the shelf is usually in the range of 1-1.5 cm. We take 1.5 cm.

Dart length on the shelf, as well as on the back, is taken depending on the height of the rack. In our case, this is 16 cm (double the height of the rack).

The center of the tuck is located on the neck line, at a distance of 1/3 of its length from the center line of the shelf. Simply put, we measure the length of the neckline from the midline of the shelf to the shoulder and divide by three. We postpone the result obtained from the middle line of the shelf and build a tuck. We distribute the solution of the tuck along the neck line 1.5 cm: 2 = 0.75 cm. Down from the neck line, set aside 8 cm, and the top of the tuck should not reach the top cut of the rack by 0.5 cm.

That's all! Work for 20 minutes.

And remember, there are no hard and fast rules! Only those who go beyond the standards can receive an unusual, i.e. extraordinary, exceptional, special, unique result.

Experiment! Good luck!