Tail coat - clothing for the elite. But it is not necessary to be invited to high secular society in order to feel worthy of it. You can also turn ordinary life into “high society”, if you really want to put on something festive and solemn.

Therefore, regardless of whether you received an invitation to an official evening event where such a dress code is supposed, or you arranged a holiday for yourself, it will not be superfluous to know how and who can and should wear a tailcoat.

What is a frock?

The main color is black, today it is the most acceptable and popular. Sometimes, much less often - dark blue, which is also called the "color of the night."

How and with what to wear a men's tailcoat?

Even if there was a reason to wear a tailcoat, few people know what to wear it with. Let's try to figure it out.

The classic look of a gentleman is completed only by patent leather shoes in black and socks of the same color.

• If you follow etiquette very strictly, then a white pocket handkerchief can serve as an addition to the costume when it is not supposed to wear orders. But even without both, the image will not become less significant and solemn.
• In the classic version, the left lapel has an inconspicuous hole for a boutonniere, and if sewn by a knowledgeable craftsman, then there will be a flower holder on the back of this lapel. It is useful in a festive setting to take advantage of this feature of the tailcoat.
• In cool weather, a long coat is put on over the tailcoat and white gloves complement the look.

Where and when is it appropriate to wear it

Nowadays, there are many events to which you can be invited, and where they want to see you in a tailcoat. In such cases, even the invitation will say "White Tie" or "Evening Dress", which means that you need to be in a white bow tie for an evening event. For your information: according to the rules of etiquette, the time of white bow ties is only in the evening, after 20.00.

• Today, tailcoats are relevant at wedding ceremonies, official evening receptions, at award ceremonies or important awards, while visiting the opera and other theaters.
• A white coat is worn very rarely even in those countries that are considered trendsetters: England and France.

  But if it is appropriate to wear white, then only in the warm season for outdoor events.

• Today, a tailcoat performs as a mandatory dress in ballroom dancing, during the performance of the European program.
• It is also the uniform of athletes in equestrian competitions. Of course, its appearance and even cut are different from the classic version, but this is for the convenience of the rider.

Basic Rules

The tailcoat itself is sewn from high-quality, natural or blended woolen fabric, it should fit the figure tightly, not gather in folds on the back or coattails. Therefore, before putting on a ready-made tailcoat, it must be adjusted to fit.

• The vest worn by men under a tailcoat should ideally be made of pique fabric. This is a dense cotton fabric, its peculiarity is that it almost does not wrinkle, not smooth (in a small scar), perfectly white, easy to wash. A vest made of another fabric, for example, silk or satin, is considered unacceptable in a classic strict combination.
• The lapels are trimmed with natural silk, which, by the way, can be sewn on both the buttons of the tailcoat and the stripes of the trousers. Although there are options in which the lapels of the tailcoat are trimmed with the same fabric as the main suit.
• At ceremonial events, often invited attendants are also dressed in tailcoats - as uniforms. In order not to be confused with the waiter, remember that the black vest and bow tie are only for those who serve the event.
• The shirt, waistcoat and shirtfront must be impeccable, since the tailcoat is always worn unbuttoned, even the cut does not imply that it will be fastened. The vest, on the contrary, has three buttons that must be fastened.

Connoisseurs never wear wristwatches. If there is a desire and opportunity, let it be a pocket watch on a chain.

Posture - straight, strict, full of grandeur and nobility. This is exactly how a gentleman wearing this outfit should look. Impeccable manners will have to be learned, useful in any case.

Can women wear a tailcoat?

A women's tailcoat also has a place to be, and the fair sex does not even have to follow all the conventions and rules of etiquette.

Since women's fashion and its designers offer this, you should not refuse interesting experiments in combining a tailcoat with accessories: jewelry, scarves, belts and handbags. With their skillful use, you can get quite a glamorous look!

Some historical and literary facts

The tailcoat is the most solemn of men's suits. This is a ceremonial type of outerwear, which forms an image that is completely unimaginable in sophistication. It is difficult to imagine anything more formal and festive than a classic tailcoat. Such a suit is characterized by an English collar, pointed hems of the front slats and a significantly elongated back. It is worn with a contrasting shirt, usually white, dress pants and matching shoes.

Wedding tailcoat - an exquisite choice of men who know their worth

Unlike the single-breasted and double-breasted jackets that are more familiar to us today, the tailcoat is worn exclusively at official events, which is the wedding. Therefore, the wedding dress code allows the groom to wear a men's tailcoat. In any case, it will look very respectable and stylish. If you don't like a black coat, you can pay attention to other colors: white, gray, blue, gray, etc.

A convenient way to find where to buy a men's tailcoat for a wedding for the groom

In our catalog you will also find very inexpensive models of tailcoats from 14 tr. to exclusive natural wool options from leading European designers. Some salons presented in the Wedding World catalog also offer to rent a tailcoat in Moscow, which will significantly save the wedding budget. Dimensional grid - from 44 to 58. By clicking on the photo, you will see the price of the product, as well as the address where you can buy a tailcoat in Moscow. Do not deny yourself the pleasure and show excessive modesty on the main day in life of the union of two hearts!

It would seem that what could be simpler than a men's suit for a ball or a party? Many who are not even meticulously familiar with the ballroom culture of the XIX century, most likely, a black tailcoat with a white or black waistcoat (most often with trousers, with the exception of Scotland), complemented by a bow tie and gloves(see illustration 1.1). So it is: in Western secular fashion, a suit based on a black tailcoat dominates almost completely in the second half of the XIX century (at the turn of the century, it will gradually be forced out into the theatrical sphere from the evening realm of the tuxedo). The only question is where exactly to draw the bottom half of the "half" - and it is different for Europe and the US.

There is an assumption that the unification of the evening dress is an analogy with the military uniform, which testified to the growing pragmatism of public life, the need for the power of protocols over emotions, and, perhaps, black fabric was produced in large quantities, and it was universal. Which of these is similar to the truth, we will still try to figure it out, but the essence is clear - there were no more alternative outfits.

In addition, in fact, the uniform, which was worn by the military for evening and official events (enough articles have been written about them by military reenactors).

If we focus on the US fashion of the 1860s, we will see that there were no special differences in the "southern" and "northern" fashions, given the "import" of all trends from the Old World, from which the USA separated economically, but not culturally for that moment. Even in the South, which was half French-influenced and retained some Spanish heritage and lived next door to the flamboyance of Caribbean clothing.(see illustration 1.2) , the gentlemen did not reflect this in their ballroom wardrobe.

Only now, this did not come immediately, but with some lag behind Europe, so there are options for how to legally show off among the “pingivns”.

But let's not get ahead of ourselves.

styles

Let's start outside. With a cursory glance at the gentleman, it is easy to see that he is dressed in three significant items of clothing: a jacket (let's call it that), trousers and a vest. A closer look shows that under all this there is also a shirt, tied at the neck with a handkerchief, tie or bow tie. If the gentleman is dressed neatly, then a closer look will notice only the gloves and shoes that complete this image. Actually, why the shirt was sometimes replaced with separate elements like cuffs and shirt-fronts - it was not particularly visible. About what is not visible will be further, but now let's pay attention to the most changeable part of the wardrobe - the jacket.

In the 19th century, he was often supplied with a long forked tail - coattails (they appeared in the 18th century, when the long skirts of the riding uniform began to be tucked up and then trimmed). The development of men's attire from the beginning of the century to the middle of the century led to the fact that the neckline on the jacket fell down along with the belt of the trousers.(see illustration 2.1). Variations on the coattail theme were worn from the 1800s to the 1850s even on the street and for business visits, but gradually this image remained only in evening fashion (and special: hunting, circus, stage)(see illustrations 2.2, 2.3).

From photographs, engravings and paintings of the era, we see that it is typical for European and North American men with prosperity to wear a long-length jacket as a formal business suit.(see ill. 2.4-2.7). It is rare to see someone wearing a short jacket that is vaguely similar to a fellow of the twentieth century. The only copy of a men's magazine found so far defines a place in life for everything short-haired: hunting, sports, perhaps walking(see illustration 2.8).

What was it all called? Let's deal with the correspondence of English and Russian terms.

In colloquial speech, it is tempting to call any men's outfit of the 19th century with the word "tailcoat" to distinguish it from a modern jacket, and this is a common mistake.

tailcoat - in the Russian-speaking environment, it most often means an evening suit, the jacket of which has tails and a clear (most often, just horizontal, but there may be pointed or smoothed options) cutout in front. The word "tailcoat" would have to correspond to the word "tail-coat" (tailed jacket, literally), if not for one "but": in the English-language sources of the 19th century, only the upper part, that is, the jacket, was called that, and not the whole suit. He, respectively, was called a tail-coat suit, if the colors of the jacket and trousers matched. In theory, it is correct to say “tailcoat suit” in Russian, but we are all used to fluently throwing “tailcoat” instead. By the way, before the war, it was customary to wear everything randomly, checkered or striped trousers went to a plain top, for example, and it can be assumed that at first they were also worn with a black tailcoat at dance events. And then fashion created the principle of a single color for all elements of the outfit, and black trousers were unambiguously attributed to the black tailcoat for balls.

In addition to the word tail-coat, one more thing, dress-coat means “tailcoat” for the middle of the century.(see illustrations 1.1, 2.1, 2.9 on the left).

frock coat several generations of men's clothing were called, from a reddingo and a coat, to an elongated jacket almost from the 14th century. That is, it was both clothing that was worn over something else in winter, and an independent jacket. A distinctive feature - straight floors, reached almost to the knees, was single-breasted or double-breasted, fitted, had a turn-down collar. [RX]
Fashionable in the Western world, in particular in the USA, mentioned above f rock coat fits this description, with the exception that it was not in principle a winter coat in any form in the 19th century, during the Civil War it was only slightly fitted, occasionally the floors and lapels were slightly rounded, but most often not. It was used for official business visits, and as common casual wear [ RH].

So, a "frock coat" is a "frock coat", but a frock coat is not only a frock coat.(see ill. 2.4-2.7, 2.10 on the left, 2.11 on the right).

Finally, a business card - a long jacket with a semicircular cut of the floor. Of everything that is described in English-language sources, only "morning coat" fits this word. It was worn (and, by the way, is still being worn) for official ceremonies, weddings, funerals, and horse races.(see illustration 2.12).

What we now call a jacket suit corresponded to the concept of sack in those days. suit , and a simple jacket, respectively, sack coat. As already mentioned, it was an informal costume. Differences from the modern one: small lapels, a shallow neckline that allows you to fasten with 3-4 buttons.(see illustration 2.13).

And which of these can we choose to match American fashion?

Tailcoats (tailcoats or dress coats) have been worn as formal evening wear since the 1850s. Frock coats were worn during the day. Depending on how formal the event was, frock coats could also be worn for parties, but not in black. Tailcoats were the norm for the ballroom” [РХ].

Fabrics, colors, textures, details

When dressing, it should be remembered that the concept of a two-piece suit or a three-piece suit is relatively recent, a plain suit could not be a formal weekend. As for the obligatory black color for a ball gown, the sources differ slightly.

“A waistcoat was always worn under a tailcoat, and under a frock coat - most often, but not always. Trousers for a long time went differently in color and pattern (to say nothing about vests) with jackets(see illustrations 3.1, 3.2).

Frock coats are usually made of fine cloth or woolen flannel. The most popular color was black, but grays and browns were also worn. The lining was made of silk or mixed material, silk with wool, as a rule, of a rich dark green color. The sleeves were lined with white cotton or sometimes teak (white twill with thin blue stripes).

For young men, outlandish styles of shirts and neckerchiefs were in vogue, often made of fabric with bold patterns (prints) ”[RX](see illustrations 3.3, 3.4).

“In general, there is no difference between North and South. The only real difference in clothing adopted in the South: lighter materials due to the summer heat.

The surviving examples of men's suits were made of wool and, as a rule, rather dark colors - black, blue-gray and brown. For summer clothing, both the North and the South used white or cream-colored linen extensively. It is probable that these colors could have been worn at the ball during the war. [LCF]

“Gentlemen wore tailcoats and frock coats in interesting colors - bottle dark green, sea blue, etc. - in the 1840s. After that came the kingdom of black. Neckerchiefs (cravats) were black or white. The usual rule was the combination of the color of the vest and headscarf (white to white, black to black), but there are photos confirming that some men violated this rule. There were brief fashions in the 1850s and 60s when men wore "lemon" gloves, but this did not last long, quickly returning to white. There were also embroidered vests, occasionally. The main changes in fashion took place in the details: the width of the lapels, the length of the sleeves slightly differed in different years, the waist seam disappeared at some point, and the like. With ties, the same story - last year's one could be some half a centimeter narrower than the current one.

A black coat was mandatory for evening events, except perhaps for small family gatherings, where it was allowed to wear a frock coat, due to their informality. The other exception was the military uniform. In general, the ballroom has evolved, giving rise to Henry Ford's approach to fashion - "you can wear any color as long as it's black" [KB].

The collar and lapels of the tailcoat could be trimmed with silk, and the dress coat with velvet, as can be seen in some paintings and photos. If they put buttons, then he no longer fastened them, most often, the floors did not converge. They didn’t make pockets on a tailcoat, on a frock coat - at the discretion of the owner.

A motley waistcoat was worn for daytime suits, although it is unlikely that he had pockets for business meetings, for example, for watches. (see illustration 3.2).

The flap of the trousers is already similar to the modern one, but, of course, with buttons. Trouser pockets with vertical slits, almost strictly on the sides (see fig. 3.3).

A frock coat is a formal frock coat with cut-out front floors and long narrow tails at the back. Also, a tailcoat is usually understood as a short special or jacket with floors. In more detail about the history of the appearance of the costume, its application and modern models of special clothing, we will tell in our article.

Costume history

There are two main theories for the origin of the tailcoat, and both send us back to the 18th century. According to one of the versions, it was initially believed that the tailcoat is a kind of model of an officer's suit. So that long uniforms do not interfere with officers while riding a horse, smart cavalrymen came up with the idea of ​​\u200b\u200btucking the edge of their clothes. After that, the newfangled introduction was adopted by the foot soldiers, then by the officials, and after a certain time, the tailcoat began to be considered the everyday clothes of citizens. Similar costumes began to be cut with long tails, and the tailcoat acquired the appearance that is familiar to us now.

According to another theory, it was believed that the tailcoat is nothing more than a slightly modified justocor. For some time, between the tailcoat and the justocor, which is familiar to us, there was an “abi” suit, which was something similar to a tuxedo.

As the tailcoat came into fashion, a special group of tailors began to stand out, who specialized in tailoring this type of suit. That's what the specialists were called - tailcoats. There was such a belief that only the French company Cigé could sew the best tailcoats. The goods of her production could be purchased in Moscow, in the Maly Order of a costume from Sizhe was considered the height of elegance.

Currently, a tailcoat (photos of clothes are posted in the article) is a short evening suit of a special cut with cut-out floors in front and long tails in the back. It can be seen on a conductor or an opera singer in a theater.

When is a suit appropriate?

A short evening suit is worn only on rare occasions. It is appropriate if the words white tie or evening dress are indicated in the official invitation to the gala event. Since this kind of postscript means that at an official reception or a gala dinner starting after 19:00, you must appear with a white bow tie, which is worn exclusively with a tailcoat. Mandatory addition to a special men's suit are black trousers without cuffs (tail-coat trousers are equipped with satin stripes), a white pique waistcoat, a snow-white shirt, black socks and patent leather shoes of the same color.

The use of tailcoat

In addition to official events, the costume is a mandatory form of dress in the European Ballroom Dancing Program. A tailcoat is also used to participate in riding competitions. For ballroom dancing, the cut of a special men's costume is slightly different from the cut of a tailcoat for competitions. This is because the rider needs freedom of movement in order to comfortably control the horse.

How to wear a tailcoat for men?

In order for a man, putting on a tailcoat, to look elegant and sophisticated, it is necessary to take into account some recommendations.

It is worth sewing or ordering a tailcoat from a trusted tailor or in specially designated boutiques that are engaged in tailoring such clothes. Since the trousers have a high top, you should not wear them, but you can wear suspenders if necessary. A white silk handkerchief should be placed in the breast pocket of the tailcoat.

Particular attention should be paid to the vest. It must be white. Since the black vest with a black bow tie is the uniform of waiters and maitre d's. Before putting on a vest, it must be starched. There are, as a rule, three buttons on a vest - all of them must be fastened.

On a snow-white shirt there is a collar of a special form, which looks like a stand with curved corners. Buttons should be the same as on the vest. Compared to buttons, cufflinks should be purchased expensive, but not stand out from the general image.

The tie must be white and must be self-tied. The ideal option is a bow tie, but modern etiquette also allows the now popular plastron tie.

Wristwatches are strictly prohibited. Such an accessory is considered a clear sign of bad taste. If necessary, a pocket watch on a chain is worn with a tailcoat.

In cold autumn and winter, a men's tailcoat is worn with a cashmere coat, covering the neck with a white scarf made of silk. It is allowed to wear white leather or kid gloves on the hands.

Children's tailcoats

For tailcoats for kids, of course, there are no such strict prohibitions and requirements as for adults. In tailoring, various colors and styles of jackets and trousers are allowed. A dress coat for a boy can be black, gray or white. There are also combined models that combine several shades.

For girls, you can choose a tailcoat dress or a vest with long lapels. To create a spectacular image of a young lady, an outfit from a tailcoat and a fluffy skirt will do. In this model, instead of the usual lapels, a gathered fabric is placed at the back, which acts as a skirt.

Women's tailcoat

For modern fashion, the penetration of the attributes of men's clothing into women's wardrobe has already become a kind of regularity. There are a lot of examples of this: from the usual shirt, which everyone has long considered practical clothing for women, to stylish and original jackets. Another originally male model is a tailcoat (a photo of the costume is presented in the article).

This type of clothing migrated to the women's wardrobe around the 20s of the last century. Such a merit, surprisingly, can be attributed to the legendary Coco Chanel. A well-known German and American actress, as well as a sex symbol, made a cult and feminine thing a tailcoat, which included trousers, a men's tailcoat, a top hat, a monocle and a cigarette in her stylish image.

The popularity of female models

At the moment, the frock is very popular. The simplicity and impeccability of the usual cut allow emphasizing feminine elegance and sophistication. Men's style in clothes gives the image sophistication and charm. And the elongated silhouette focuses on the curves of the female figure.

Compared to which it is allowed to wear only on solemn occasions, a women's tailcoat is only an original, as well as an extraordinary wardrobe item, used at any opportunity. Created informal bows look even more interesting.

What to wear a tailcoat for a woman?

For women wearing a tailcoat, there are no strict restrictions in etiquette. The color of the costume can be any: from traditional black and gray to hot pink and lemon. The latest fashion trend is the combination of a women's tailcoat with casual wear. The only rule that should be followed is as follows: you must definitely wear something under the suit, as it is customary to wear it unbuttoned. For this, any T-shirt, blouse, shirt, vest or beautiful underwear is suitable.

To create an unforgettable look using such a thing from a men's wardrobe as a tailcoat, you need to use the following tips from fashion stylists:

When creating a stylish image, one should be guided by female logic: the less predictable and unusual, the more stylish. However, it must be borne in mind that other things worn should in no case belong to the men's wardrobe.

Varieties of models for beautiful ladies

At the latest fashion shows and on the pages of glossy publications, various variations of modern costume models are presented for general viewing. The following outfits deserve special attention:

• tailcoat dress - this is a kind of model that has long coattails at the back and a deep neckline in front (a blouse or shirt should be worn under the dress);
• tailcoat tunic - in this version, the lapels can be located both in front and behind;
• cardigans in the form of a tailcoat, put on jeans or a long T-shirt.

The strict lines of the presented models perfectly emphasize the grace of the female figure, and the clearly noticeable masculine style in clothes adds a sexy touch to the created stylish bow.

Do you know that earlier, by the number of decorations and the shape of the tailcoat, one could judge the position of a person in society? Today, this ceremonial costume has already lost its former influence. And yet you can’t do without it at White Tie parties and weddings.

Important! A tailcoat is a men's dress suit with a special cut. In front, it barely reaches the hips, and behind it is a dovetail or two narrow tails. Pay attention to how elegant and graceful modern tailcoats from the German brand Masterhand are.

The classic of the genre - "Cornway" - will please the groom

• satin lapels and buttons;
• 100% wool material for tailcoat;
• the highlight of the designers is additional buttons on the sleeves and the body of the jacket itself;
• wide size range - from 44 to 64 sizes.

If you decide to stay on a tailcoat, you should know:

• tailcoats emphasize figure flaws - it is better for stooped men to replace them with tuxedos;
• a black tailcoat requires black shoes and socks;
• a dress coat in black is complemented by a snow-white shirt with a stand-up collar, a starched shirtfront and a bow tie;
• etiquette calls for a white silk waistcoat;
• trousers with satin stripes are put on under the tailcoat;
• a black coat on a cold day is complemented by a black coat, white scarf and gloves;
• cufflinks for a tailcoat should be modest;
• if you need a watch, choose a model on a chain.

Why would it be profitable for you to buy tailcoats in the showroom?

Let's start with the fact that the showroom format offers communication with a stylist and fitting. No blind deliveries.

The client also has:

• wide choice - the showroom provides the richest assortment;
• quality items from well-known brands - the showroom does not work with fakes;
• affordable prices - due to direct cooperation with the manufacturer of things;
• prompt order fulfillment and the ability to quickly bring the right size from a warehouse in Germany;
• consultation of professional stylists.

Tail coat is delivered only under the order from Germany. Delivery time 3-4 weeks.

Contents of the White Tie Kit:

• tailcoat jacket
• Pants with double stripes
• Tailcoat shirt
• Tailcoat white pique vest
• Tailcoat butterfly