Men's denim trousers

graduate work

5.4 Gradation of patterns by size and height

In the recommendations of modeling organizations and individual fashion designers, we never see a model’s attachment to one size and height. Most often, the model belongs to the group of sizes and heights, taking into account the influence of age. The design and the corresponding set of patterns are developed for the same size and height. You can get a set of patterns for products of all sizes and heights recommended by the fashion designer for a given model, or all sizes and heights of the basic design within the limits of the size, or even age group, using the gradation of patterns.

Gradation - the process of designing a set of patterns for clothing parts various sizes and heights based on patterns of parts of a product of medium size and height. The essence of the gradation process is to increase or decrease the linear dimensions of the original patterns.

There are several known methods for grading patterns:

Ray,

Grouping method

Proportional-calculated

Using a computer.

The ray method is that from a certain point of the structure (and sometimes a point outside the structure) called the focus, straight lines - rays - are drawn through the main structural points. An increment is plotted from the contour of the original part along these rays and the contours of the parts are drawn using new points. required size. Most often, the beam method is used when grading patterns for parts of headdresses, since this method is most accurate for parts close to regular geometric shapes.

Groupings make two sets of patterns for parts (most often for medium and extreme sizes) and combine patterns of the same name along one or two lines. After this, the structural points of the same name are connected by straight lines, and the resulting segments are divided by the number of intermediate sizes. Thus, design points of intermediate sizes are obtained, as well as an increment from size to size. By connecting the corresponding points, contours of patterns of intermediate sizes are obtained. Most often, this method is used for grading patterns of clothing parts of complex models.

The most widespread is the proportional-calculation method of gradation.

Proportional-calculated - for each part, depending on its design, the main vertical and horizontal are selected. All structural points of the part are moved parallel to the main ones by certain increments. The magnitude of the increment is directly related to the variability of dimensional characteristics. The increment values ​​were obtained by compiling calculation tables with subsequent verification of the calculation data by constructing design drawings and combining them. Dimensional characteristics of typical figures change with an increase or decrease in size and height by a constant (for each characteristic) amount. The growth variability of those dimensional characteristics that determine the width of the product and the main structural sections is small compared to the increases for a loose fit. Therefore, for some types of products it becomes possible to abandon the labor-intensive process of grading patterns by height, which can significantly reduce the pattern production of enterprises. In this case, the gradation of patterns by height is reduced to moving the waist line and the bottom of the product and sleeves.

Currently, the use of computers with plotters facilitates and simplifies the work of grading patterns.

The amount of movement of design points from size to size and from growth to growth is presented in Table 10.

Table 10

Moving feature points from size to size and from height to height in master parts women's clothing

Product details and design points	Designation on the drawing	Difference between adjacent sizes, cm	Difference between adjacent heights, cm
		verticals	horizontally	vertically	horizontally
Front half of trousers
the point of intersection of the side cut with the yoke stitching line
Back half of trousers
the point of intersection of the bottom line and the side cut
the point of intersection of the bottom line and the step cut
the point of intersection of the knee line and the side cut
the point of intersection of the line of the subgluteal cavity and the lateral cut
the point of intersection of the line of the subgluteal cavity and the step cut
the point of intersection of the line of the subgluteal cavity and the step cut
point of intersection of the side cut with the top line

The pattern gradation scheme is shown in the figure.

The gradation of patterns by size and height is shown on the graphic sheet

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Pattern gradation - designing the contours of patterns for clothing parts of various sizes and heights based on patterns for products of medium size.

The gradation by height is based on the inter-height intervals established using anthropometric measurements of the human figure.

One of the requirements for the gradation process and methods is the preservation technical characteristics clothing models that they received during the design and manufacturing process.

When analyzing the quality of samples whose designs are obtained using grading methods, the following factors are analyzed:

Overall fit of the product

The position of the main construction lines,

Preservation of the silhouette shape and proportions provided for the average size,

Preservation of model features.

There are three known methods for grading patterns:

Ray,

Grouping method

Proportional-calculated.

The essence of the ray method is that after transferring the contours of the pattern onto paper, rays are drawn from a certain point on the part through all the most critical design points of the part, on which the increment values ​​are plotted. The resulting points are sequentially connected to each other, drawing similar contours of a larger or smaller size.

Gradation of patterns by grouping requires having two sets of patterns of different sizes: medium and large, or medium and small. Patterns of parts of both sizes are sequentially transferred to paper, their contours are traced, making sure to combine the basic horizontal and vertical lines. The design points of the same name on the combined patterns are connected by straight lines and divided into the number of parts corresponding to the number of intermediate sizes +1. The resulting points of each size are sequentially connected to each other similarly to the lines of the main structure.

The most widely used method in the clothing industry is the proportional-calculation method of gradation. The essence of this method is that the design points of the patterns are moved horizontally and vertically in accordance with changes in the dimensional characteristics of the human body and the positions of the division lines.

The construction of gradation drawings is carried out in the following sequence:

On each piece of clothing of the original size, the original lines and the starting point of the gradation are determined;

The gradation point is established and designated;

From each point, gradations of the original size are laid off in the direction of the coordinates of the gradation size;

The final points of graduated dimensions are found as the sum of two vectors - the diagonal of a parallelogram, the sides of which are increments to a given part size;

Connect the corresponding points of the resulting size and get the outline of the clothing part.

The original lines and points influence the magnitude of the displacement vector of the construction lines and points and remain for all sizes and heights.

When selecting reference points and lines, the following requirements must be taken into account:

The starting lines and points must be the same for the corresponding parts of men's, women's and children's clothing;

They must ensure a minimum increment in the most complex curved sections of the structure.

Changes in the sizes of patterns for clothing parts are associated with changes in the dimensional characteristics of a typical physique. Therefore, the rules for determining the sizes of clothing parts during gradation are based on the patterns of changes in subordinate dimensional characteristics depending on changes in leading dimensional characteristics.

Taking these patterns into account when grading clothing items by size linear dimensions parts change both in the transverse and longitudinal directions. When grading the patterns of clothing parts by height, some linear dimensions of the parts change only in the longitudinal direction, neglecting transverse increments due to their small size.

The initial horizontal increments for size gradation are the inter-dimensional differences along the chest, waist and hips. The distribution of the interdimensional difference should be made in proportion to the size of the parts.

The gradation of small parts depends on their location in the product, on the size of the part and is decided specifically for each model.

In this graduation project, the following details are graded:

1. The central part of the front of the jacket

2. Side part jacket front

3. The central part of the back of the jacket

4. Side of the back of the jacket

5. Bottom part sleeves

6. Top part sleeves

7. Cuff

8. The central part of the front of the dress

9. Side front of the dress

10. The central part of the back of the dress

11. Side back of the dress

Drawing up a table of measurements of patterns templates and finished products

To compile a table of measures, it is necessary to establish the main and additional measurements for clothing of various cuts and divisions, as well as the maximum deviation from the nominal basic measurement values finished products according to regulatory and technical documentation.

For shoulder products, there are nine main commensurate measurements of the human body:

Back length;

The distance at which the width of the backrest is measured;

The width of the product at the level of the armhole depth;

The distance at which the front width is measured;

Front or front width;

Front length;

The length of the sleeve;

Sleeve width;

Collar length (product with fastening to the top).

For belt products 3 dimensions are offered:

For the skirt:

Skirt length;

Width of the skirt along the waist and hips;

For trousers:

Side seam length;

Length of half the belt or width along the waist line;

Width at bottom.

Other measurements may be included in the list of measurements, taking into account model features.

Table 10. Measurements of pattern templates and finished products

	Name of measurement locations	Size, cm
measuring patterns	allowance measurement	finished product measurement
	Back length: along the middle of the back from the collar seam to the bottom of the product		Collar stitching seam - 1.0 hem hem - 3.0 processing time - 0.5
	Back width: between the sleeve seams at the narrowest point at a distance of 15 cm from the neck seam		sleeve stitching seam - 1.0 raised seam - 2.0 middle seam - 1.0 processing time - 0.1
	Width of the product at the level of the armhole depth: from the edge of the side to the middle of the back		middle seam -1.0 raised seams -4.0 bead turning - 1.0 side seams-2.0 Work - 0.7
	Width of the product along the waistline from the edge of the side to the middle of the back		middle seam - 1.0 raised seams - 4.0 edge facing - 1.0 side seams-2.0 processing time - 0.7

61 Rules for the design of pattern drawings. Location of the main serifs on the patterns

When constructing pattern drawings, normative and technical documentation is used, presented in the general technical specifications of industry standards for various types of products.

Initial data for the development of basic drawings of patterns for the main parts of clothing are: a technical drawing of the model design of the product, methods of technological processing, properties of the materials from which the product is planned to be made.

conjugacy and overlap connected slices. The sections are checked in a certain sequence: first, the conjugation of the sections is checked, then the overlap of the sections is checked.

Overlayability

All parts of the pattern set must show the directions of the warp threads, the lines of the middle of the parts, the lines of the chest, waist, hips, control notches for connecting the parts/

The name of the product is indicated on the back pattern. On one of the large parts there is a list ( specification) with the numbering of all parts included in this kit. The following inscriptions are placed on all parts of the pattern set:

the name of detail; technical description number; number of details in the cut.

Assembly notches are applied to the parts patterns perpendicular to the cuts to correctly connect the parts to each other. Usually, on sections longer than 40-50 cm, at least two notches are placed at a distance of approximately 10 cm from the end of the sections. At least four notches are made on the sleeve cap and armhole. Notches are required at the points of intersection of the seam lines with adjacent parts, for example, on the sleeve cap for the shoulder seam, at the armhole for the top of the elbow seam of the sleeve, at the cut of the collar stand for the midline of the back and shoulder seam, etc.

Additionally, notches are placed for pockets and stitching individual parts and hem allowance designations. If two notches are located next to each other (one for the finishing part, the other is required), leave the notch for the finishing part.

62 Graduation of patterns. Basic methods of gradation

Grouping method comes down to obtaining patterns for clothing parts of various sizes as a result of combining two sets of patterns (medium and extreme sizes). After combining the patterns, the design points of the same name are connected by straight lines. These lines are divided into a number of parts corresponding to the number of intermediate sizes. The main disadvantage of the grouping method is that it is necessary to build drawings not for one, but for two sizes. This method is used as a starting method for finding the increment values ​​at the main design points of typical patterns for technical reproduction of patterns used in other methods, as well as for the reproduction of patterns for clothing parts of complex models.

Essence beam method consists in drawing straight lines (rays) from a certain point (focus) through all constructive points. The increment values ​​are plotted from the contour of the part along these rays. Using the newly found points, the contours of parts of larger and smaller sizes are drawn.

This method is the simplest, but the least accurate. Its accuracy is affected primarily by the choice of the position of the starting point (focus). At different focus positions, the direction of the rays is different, the design points of the patterns are shifted, and their contours are distorted. The beam method can be used to reproduce patterns of individual parts of headdresses and corsetry, the size increments of which occur in the radial direction.

63 Proportional-calculated method of grading patterns for clothing parts

Gradation or technical reproduction of patterns is the production of a set of patterns of all sizes and heights of the corresponding weight or age group according to the patterns of parts of a medium-sized product.

There are three known methods of technical reproduction of patterns: grouping, radial and proportional-calculated.

The most widely used design method is proportional-calculated method of reproduction of patterns. The essence of this method is that the design points of the patterns are moved horizontally and vertically, taking into account the corresponding increments of the patterns along the horizontal and vertical axes in accordance with changes in the dimensional characteristics of the human body and the position of the division lines.

The values ​​of increments along horizontals and verticals for each constructive point of the patterns are found based on a certain position of the point relative to the original (zero) lines (axes). For the main parts of shoulder products, the following location of the original lines is accepted. On the back, the vertical line coincides with the middle of the back or a line tangent to the middle line of the back, the horizontal line with the chest line (armhole depth) or the waist line. On the shelf, the vertical line runs tangent to the armhole line, the horizontal line coincides with the chest line (armhole depth) or the waist line.

73 Methods for checking the correctness of the construction of clothing. Mating parts

The product design drawing must provide an accurate conjugacy and overlap connected slices. The sections are checked in a certain sequence: first, the conjugation of the sections is checked, then the overlap of the sections is checked.

For check conjugacy lines along mating sections, locations of control marks, templates of the main parts are made from thick paper. The cut of the template corresponds to the seam line in the finished product. Templates of adjacent parts are laid on a plane, combining sections of the same name 3–8 cm from the line being checked.

Conjugacy is checked by sections that are continuations of each other. These are cuts of the front and back neckline, a cut of the bottom of the front and back, armhole cuts, etc. The lines of mating cuts should smoothly transition from one part to another at the junction of the parts.

The back and front patterns are folded, matching the lines of the side cuts over 8 cm from the armhole. At the same time, check the alignment of the armhole line at the joints of the parts.

To check the conjugation in the neck area, combine the patterns of the back and the front along the line of the shoulder sections for 5 cm from the neck.

Checking the alignment of the edging lines, the patterns of the upper and lower halves of the sleeve are aligned along the line of the front cut for 8 cm from the top cut. The patterns of the upper and lower halves are also aligned along the line of the elbow cuts for 8 cm from the upper cut and the alignment of the cut lines is checked.

Overlayability checked by sections that will be connected to each other in the product. These are side cuts, cuts connecting the front with the cut-off barrel, sleeve cuts, relief cuts, side and step cuts of trousers, etc.

The connected sections must be close in configuration to each other. With this configuration of connected sections, the manufacturability of the design is ensured and the aesthetics of the product is increased.

Goal of the work: mastering the methods and techniques for reproducing patterns of parts sewing products and drawing up standard grading schemes for patterns.

1. Preparation of drawings of patterns of the main parts of the product.

2. Determination of the displacement values ​​of gradation points.

3. Perform technical reproduction of patterns of main parts by size.

4. Drawing up standard patterns for grading patterns.

5. Analysis of work results; formulation of conclusions.

Questions to prepare for work

1. What is called gradation of patterns?

2. What methods of grading patterns do you know? Name their advantages and disadvantages.

3. What is the essence of the proportional-calculation gradation method?

4. What is the location of the original propagation axes on the main parts of the shoulder clothing?

Guides and tools: patterns of the main parts of a standard design product, paper (millimetre, tracing paper), drawing accessories.

Literature: .

Guidelines

The work is performed using the proportional-calculation gradation method.

The proportional-calculation method of grading patterns in the clothing industry has become most widespread and is used mainly for grading clothing parts of basic bases and standard designs.

With this method, the values ​​of vertical and horizontal increments when moving nodal points are determined in proportion to the distance of the corresponding structural point relative to the gradation lines, using the values ​​of the established initial increments along the main structural lines. The farther the constructive point is from the gradation line, the larger the increment it will move.

The magnitudes of vertical and horizontal increments are determined based on the data on the variability of dimensional characteristics and the calculation formulas of the corresponding design methodology.

An analysis of the displacement values ​​of design points of product parts patterns for men and women of all complete groups showed that it is possible to use the same increment values:

for men, small size subgroups based on chest girth (92–108) of all fat groups;

men subgroup large sizes by chest girth (112–128) of all fat groups;

women of the small size subgroup by chest girth (88–104) of all fat groups;

women of the large size subgroup by bust girth (108–120) of all fat groups;

women of a subgroup of very large sizes according to chest girth (124–136) of all fat groups.

For children great importance has age-related variability, so it is necessary to gradate by size and height for each age group separately. In total, 6 are allocated for girls and boys age groups: nursery (up to 3 years), preschool (3–6 years), junior school (7–11 years), senior school (12–15 years), teenager (15–18 years) with Og III = 84–92 cm and teenage (15–18 years old) with Og III = 96–108 cm.

With the proportional-calculation method of gradation, it is necessary to outline the contours of the original pattern, designate design points and select the original gradation lines - the X and Y axes, perpendicular to each other. As a rule, each part has its own gradation axes.

Main gradation points are identical to the design points of the base base, therefore their designation corresponds to the designation of the design points of the base base in the corresponding design method

Typical position of gradation axes corresponds to the construction lines defining the base grid of the design drawing.

In shoulder products with set-in sleeves:

on the back the vertical line coincides with the middle of the back or a line tangent to the middle line of the back, the horizontal line with the waist line or chest line;

on the shelf the vertical line runs tangentially to the armhole line or coincides with midline shelves, horizontal coincides with the waist line or chest line;

on the sleeve the vertical line connects the ends of the front roll line or passes through the highest point of the sleeve cap, the horizontal line coincides with the line of the width of the sleeve under the armhole.

In shoulder products with one-piece sleeves:

on the back the vertical line passes through the top of the side cut of the back, the horizontal line passes through the chest line;

on the shelf the vertical line passes through the top of the side cut of the front, the horizontal line passes through the chest line.

In the collar only the length changes, so grading occurs only along the horizontal axis, which is located perpendicular to the center line of the collar and runs tangentially to the line where the collar is sewn into the neckline; the vertical axis of reproduction passes through the notch, which corresponds to the position of the shoulder seam or through the end of the collar.

In belt products:

for straight skirt vertical lines coincide with the middle line of the rear panel and the middle line of the front panel, horizontal - with the line of the hips;

for trousers the vertical lines coincide with the “arrow” line on the rear and front halves, the horizontal line coincides with the seat depth line.

The movement of points lying on the axes is carried out only in one direction along the corresponding axis - horizontally or vertically. All other design points of the contour are moved diagonally of a rectangle, the sides of which are transverse and longitudinal increments to a given part size.

Generally sequence of work when performing gradation of patterns using a proportional-calculation method can be represented by the following diagram :

Outline the contours of the original pattern;

Mark gradation points;

Select the original gradation lines;

Determine the amount of movement of gradation points along the selected axes;

Set aside the displacement values ​​of the gradation points along the selected axes;

Find the final value of the movement of structural points and designate it;

Outline the contours of the new pattern;

Check that the patterns are constructed correctly.

Preparation of drawings of patterns of the main parts of the product.

1. Patterns of the main parts of a typical or basic design of a product are transferred to a sheet of graph paper, placing them at a certain distance from each other, taking into account the increase in the size of the patterns as they are multiplied. The back and front patterns are positioned so that the chest line is aligned with the horizontal, and the sleeve patterns are positioned so that the sleeve width line under the armhole is aligned with the horizontal.

2. On the resulting contours of the patterns, the gradation points are indicated by the letters of the original basic design.

3. For each part, select the original gradation axes and plot them on the drawing.

Determination of the displacement values ​​of gradation points.

1. The values ​​of the interdimensional difference in measurements of typical figures involved in the calculations of the selected product design are drawn up in tabular form (Table 8.1).

Table 8.1

The magnitude of the interdimensional difference in measurements of typical figures

2. In accordance with the selected initial gradation axes of each part, the displacements of the gradation points are calculated using the EMKO TsOTSHL formulas. It must be remembered that points lying on the gradation axes move only along these axes. Calculations are presented in tabular form (Table 8.2).

Table 8.2

Calculation of the displacement values ​​of points when grading patterns

Point designation	Calculation of movement along the X axis	Calculation of movement along the Y axis

Performing technical reproduction of patterns of main parts by size

Graduation is performed in two adjacent sizes (one size larger and one size smaller than the original).

1. The obtained values ​​of movement of each nodal point of the patterns are sequentially laid off first in the direction of the X axis, then in the direction of the Y axis in the direction of increasing size, thus obtaining the corresponding point of the new pattern one size larger than the original one. By connecting the original gradation point with the corresponding new point with an auxiliary straight line, the direction of movement of each gradation point of the original pattern is obtained.

2. In the opposite direction, set aside the final values ​​for moving the gradation points to obtain smaller patterns.

3. Using the obtained points, outline the contours of new patterns for parts of products of adjacent sizes.

4. Check the correct construction of patterns for clothing parts of adjacent sizes using control measurements. If the obtained measurements of new parts differ from the calculated values ​​by more than 0.2 cm, then the contours of the new patterns should be adjusted.

Drawing up standard patterns gradation schemes

Draw up gradation schemes for patterns corresponding to the standard design of the product on an A4 sheet. To do this, on the drawings of parts of a standard or basic design, made on a scale of 1:4, at the gradation points, draw horizontal and vertical arrows in the direction of increasing the gradation size and indicate next to each arrow the increment value for one size.

Analysis of work results and formulation of conclusions. At the end of the work, the student must analyze the accuracy of the resulting gradation schemes and indicate the reason for the inaccuracy, if any.

Small details of the top include flaps, leaves, facings, patch pockets, belt loops, patches, etc. Derived patterns include hems, upper collar, lining parts, linings and auxiliary patterns.

The basic principles for developing grading schemes for these parts are to extremely simplify the grading process, reducing its labor intensity, and to reduce the number of derivative patterns included in the set of product patterns.

When developing grading schemes for small and derived parts, the following assumptions are used:

Width of small parts different sizes and growth remains constant;

The length of small parts is multiplied by size groups;

Most auxiliary patterns are reproduced only by size
(for example, marking the location of darts), some only according to heights
(for example, marking the locations of loops and buttons).

When developing gradation schemes for small and derivative parts, the gradation scheme for the main part made from the upper fabric is taken as the initial one.

The previously described methods for converting gradation schemes are used and the gradation values ​​are recalculated relative to the selected rational position of the original gradation lines. Figure 25 shows an example of developing a pattern gradation scheme for the front of a women's jacket.

Rice. 25 - Development of a selection gradation scheme:

a - shelf gradation scheme;

b - selection gradation scheme with the rational position of the gradation axes.

For enterprises specializing in the production of products of the same range, when developing schemes for grading patterns of derived parts, the unification of parts and assemblies of the product according to selected size groups is taken into account. Thus, at the Bolshevichka MPTSHO, specializing in the production men's suits, small parts products (leaflet, flap, upper and lower facings of the inner lining pocket, etc.) are unified by size groups: 88-104, 108-120, 124-136. In accordance with this, the change in the length of the leaf from one group of sizes to another is 1.0 cm, and the length of the facings internal pockets linings - 3.0 cm. Within the specified groups, the linear dimensions of small parts do not change.

Auxiliary patterns (chaining, basic) are mainly unified for two groups of sizes: 88-104, 108-136. Individual patterns are graded according to the sizes included in the group. Figure 26 shows the construction of a unified pattern for chalking the neck of a shelf (group of sizes 88-104), which is multiplied by size. In accordance with this, the position of the shoulder section of the shelf of different sizes is marked on the pattern, taking into account the peculiarities of the gradation of the Bolshevich MPTSHO.

Rice. 26 - Pattern for chalking out the neck of the shelf into groups)" sizes 88-104.

In a number of cases, when using standardized small parts, graduated by size groups, it is necessary to make adjustments to the gradation schemes of the main parts with which the small parts are connected. Thus, the gradation scheme for the design of a sleeve with a stitched cuff, which is rationally unified by groups of sizes, must be adjusted along the lower cut (the cut of the cuff stitched). In other words, the lower section of the sleeve should be multiplied according to the same size groups. In this case, the gradation scheme for the bottom of the sleeve will look as shown in Fig. 27.

Rice. 27 - Drawings of gradation of the bottom of the sleeve and cuff according to size groups.

Reviewed in this manual techniques and methods for developing gradation schemes represent a certain standard set, which can be supplemented in each specific case. When grading specific model structures emergency situations often arise due to production requirements. Real process gradation is not reduced to pure technical methods, but requires creative approach to solve the problem. In this regard, it is permissible to violate: some rules, if this provides a simpler technical solution and does not lead to disruption of the fit of products on the corresponding figures or noticeable changes appearance models in products of other sizes. The figures in appendices A.5 and A.6 show gradation schemes for specific model designs of women's, men's and children's clothing.